This may be a dumb question but since I have never had anything powdercoated before I'm going to ask. Do you need to mask or protect the threads when you have something powdercoatd to avoid excessive build-up? In other words, will the nuts still screw on to the threads if you the stud threads get powdercoated?

Thanks in advance. Joe

That's a good question. I'm sure they handle these things all the time. But from my discussion Friday with a coater,, they spray/coat the negatively charged clean component with a powder that's positively charged as it leaves the spray gun. This polarity difference causes the powder to adhere well to the component. Then, the componet is placed in an "oven" where the high temperatures cause the powder to "melt" persay and become fluid this creating a smooth finish.. I guess the textured powders retain that texture. So, as long as you have something taping off the threads and can deal with the oven temps, you're ok..

My rookie

Your powdercoater will/should have whatever masks, tapes, etc that are needed to do the job, just point out areas such as threading, that you don't need powder on,......when preping any part for a powdercoater the ONLY thing you can do to lower the cost, and actually help the coater, is sandblasting the part(s), no chemical strippers

Thanks for the input. I'm getting ready to batch clean some suspension parts and have considered having them powdercoated. I was going to have my media blaster shop blast them clean for me and then possibly drop them off. I thought masking would be necessary but was not sure. Thanks again for answering my "dumb" question.

Joe

As said...just point out to the powdercoater. I had a diff housing done and they used some special high temp tape-looking stuff to cover up a couple places I asked them not to coat

The powdercoater will have a special high heat masking tape that is used specifically for covering threads and other areas that cannot have powder. They also use ordinary corks to plug threaded holes.

Did my whole front end with powdercoat except changable parts such as tie rod ends ect..even the hardware and strut rods bolts all powder coated. Everything went on fine. Here are some pics look ant the bolts and nuts.

Pic 2

Does ANYONE know a source for the proper OEM suede black for dashes, upper headliner trim and steering column?

Troy

EDIT Mike, I just saw your other post to me...

Troy

Was just reviewing this thread now that everything is nearing the powder coating stage and realized that I had NOT thanked everyone that had posted. Thanks again for everyone's advice and tips.

Joe

Plain old masking tape will work just fine. While the oven temp is in excess of 600 degrees there is no open flame to set fire to the tape. The tape only has to keep the powder off during the spray process - which it does. Once it hits the oven the tape will dry up from the heat and will flake off when the part is taken out of the oven.

There are always the guys who will tell you everything fits even with the threads coated. Makes me wonder how poorly the fit was prior to coating !!! Thread tolerances should not allow for plating or coating with anything but lubrication.

Powder cures at 375-400 not 600.

Coater should have everything needed to cover or plug threads. Just point them out when you drop it off. I ask them to just put a little masking tape on the areas they want left bare. I normally blast the threads clean (120 grit) to make it easier on re-assembly.

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Powder cures at 375-400 not 600.

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Ok, even better for the tape !!

JMHO - Do not leave the masking tape on for the cure cycle. I have seen the masking tape dry out and start flaking off. The flakes could/can fall on the coated part and ruin the coating. Your coater will have high temp tape or silicone plugs.
When someone drops things off at our shop one of us goes over the parts and marks(if they have not already been marked) what needs to be powder free. Simple to cover after blasting and safer.