Hi all,

I have an indymaxx block that has had their grinding for increased stroke done. Anybody know what stroke it clears (assuming 2.2" rod journals and steel rods)? I asked them by email, and they haven't responded yet. Curiosity is getting the better of me...

4.75, 5" with a raised cam block.

Ah, thank you. Mine is not a raised cam block. Next question-do you have any recommendations for a good place to get the crank repaired? The story is, the motor was a 572. Due to incorrect setting of the rev limiter, it over revved and came apart. Damage was done to the block, which has just recently been fixed. The crank (a Molnar billet unit) was also damaged, but has been magnafluxed and is not cracked. I'm fixing stuff as I can afford.

Shaft tech in Findley, Ohio

Thank you, I'll look them up.

I like and use marine Crankshaft in Orange County, CA on my better race cranks: up:
Ask for David and tell them that Cab recommended you.

I just talked to Shaftech and Marine Crankshaft. Shaftech wants $585 per journal to extend the stroke (because of having to weld) and doesn't advise doing it due to it being hard on the metal of the shaft. Marine Crankshaft wants $1100 to do the whole job and says they do it all the time, no problem. They are also so busy they don't even want me to ship it to them yet.

Just an FYI on repaired cranks....Save your self time & money, and just get a new one if you can't turn it and clean it all up without welding. Ask me how I know....Well...I have had a couple of them repaired now by welding them up, and then they straighten them. Problem is, they never stay strait due to built up stresses in the crank after welding, no matter how many times you straighten it. When it pulls in heat next, it will warp...Can some motors live with a welded crank that isn't straight, yes, but.....They are not good for the bearings or longevity.

As nice as they are when they come back all fixed, they don't stay that way...They get up to temp a couple of times, and they warp. Nothing you can do about it. They can use water when they repair it keep he heat localized, but they still warp...Been there, done that.

I looked on Molnar's web site and see no billet cranks far a big block Chrysler. I don't even see one for over $1,100. If that is the case I would agree to not fixing and getting a new one.

Well I guess I was wrong, unless they used to make billet ones and don't anymore. I have a bunch of receipts from the engine, I'll find them and take a look. I don't know what to think on welding and offset grinding now, I see what you're saying about them eventually warping, but people have been doing it for literally 60 years or better. The (apparently reputable) shop told me they do it all the time. How could this be the case if they all warp and cause trouble?

Personally, I’d just have the crank “repaired”, and leave it at 4.50 stroke.

What stroke are you are trying to achieve?

I was thinking about 4.75".

I sent you a PM about a crankshaft

http://ohiocrank.com/crankshafts/


Chrysler Billet Crankshafts
Part Number Model Price
B4263750 Billet blown alch, w/ Chrysler journals 3.75" stroke $1,750.00
B4264150 Billet blown alch. w/ Chrysler journals 4.150" stroke $1,750.00
B4264375 Billet blown alch. w/Chrysler journals 4.375" stroke $1,750.00
B4264500 Billet blown alch. w/Chrysler journals 4.500" stroke $1,750.00
All have 3 keyways, 5/32 radius, flat rear flange. Custom finished to customer exact journal size requirements.

Hmm, you guys make good points about new crankshafts...

Hoping to not clutter the place up with another thread, anybody know the approximate weight of an aluminum block B1 headed complete engine? Assuming no a/c, power steering, or dry sump setup.

Will depend on components used and low deck tall deck. But 525ish full of oil, carb to pan, pump to flexplate is a ballpark

Damn, that's not bad at all. It might end up about the same as the iron block ls motor the car has now.