Re: More about manual disc brakes
[Re: hemienvy]
#3003356
01/09/22 05:04 AM
01/09/22 05:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,160 A Red State
SNK-EYZ
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,160
A Red State
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The reservoirs on a disc brake master cylinder are two different sizes, the one for the calipers is larger as it needs more fluid to work properly.
Put a disc brake master cylinder on it, from a 73 A-Body manual disc brake car. It's what most people run using stock type parts.
Kayse can't keep up at all now. lol
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Re: More about manual disc brakes
[Re: lewtot184]
#3003379
01/09/22 10:03 AM
01/09/22 10:03 AM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,306 nowhere
Sniper
master
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master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,306
nowhere
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i did the a-body manual disc conversion on a b-body. i ended up with a 1.03 master cylinder after trying a smaller .93. the car stops but not very well. to do it over again i'd never use a large single piston caliper. beware that some kits use a 2.74 piston for b and e bodies. i had to get rid of the 2.74 and go down to the 2.47 to help in stopping. i have another b-body with 11" drums and power assist and i'd never ever ever ever take those drums off for a disc conversion knowing what i know now. there is absolutely no comparison in stopping. Then you did something wrong. I've done two a body disc conversions and both work properly. I'd venture to say thousands have been done and work fine. The factory did hundreds of thousands of these and they worked fine. They key is to mimic the entire factory setup. Not mix and match and delete stuff you don't think you need.
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Re: More about manual disc brakes
[Re: Sniper]
#3003381
01/09/22 10:14 AM
01/09/22 10:14 AM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,916 usa
lewtot184
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,916
usa
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i did the a-body manual disc conversion on a b-body. i ended up with a 1.03 master cylinder after trying a smaller .93. the car stops but not very well. to do it over again i'd never use a large single piston caliper. beware that some kits use a 2.74 piston for b and e bodies. i had to get rid of the 2.74 and go down to the 2.47 to help in stopping. i have another b-body with 11" drums and power assist and i'd never ever ever ever take those drums off for a disc conversion knowing what i know now. there is absolutely no comparison in stopping. Then you did something wrong. I've done two a body disc conversions and both work properly. I'd venture to say thousands have been done and work fine. The factory did hundreds of thousands of these and they worked fine. They key is to mimic the entire factory setup. Not mix and match and delete stuff you don't think you need. i doubt it.
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Re: More about manual disc brakes
[Re: lewtot184]
#3003612
01/09/22 09:30 PM
01/09/22 09:30 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,631 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,631
Freeport IL USA
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i did the a-body manual disc conversion on a b-body. i ended up with a 1.03 master cylinder after trying a smaller .93. the car stops but not very well. to do it over again i'd never use a large single piston caliper. beware that some kits use a 2.74 piston for b and e bodies. i had to get rid of the 2.74 and go down to the 2.47 to help in stopping. i have another b-body with 11" drums and power assist and i'd never ever ever ever take those drums off for a disc conversion knowing what i know now. there is absolutely no comparison in stopping. Did you use a manual brake brake pedal and mount the master with the proper bracket or proper set of mounting holes on the firewall? A manual brake pedal has a different mounting bracket, and has a different hole for the master cylinder rod to bolt to. That gives the manual brake pedal more leverage then a power brake pedal has. If you used a power brake pedal in a manual brake system, you can't apply as much pressure to the manual brake system that it needs. If you mounted the manual master on the same bracket a power booster mounts to, or in the same set of holes in the firewall the booster mounted to, you have compounded the incorrect pedal problem. There are two sets of holes (or indentions for a set of holes) in the firewall to mount either a bracket the booster, or to bolt the master to, the manual master goes in the upper set of holes on the firewall, and the master cylinder rod bolts to upper hole on the pedal. I've done probably a dozen of these conversions over the years, never had a problem with the disc brakes being worse then the drums were. Gene
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Re: More about manual disc brakes
[Re: poorboy]
#3003647
01/09/22 10:32 PM
01/09/22 10:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,489 Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Omaha Ne
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[ Did you use a manual brake brake pedal and mount the master with the proper bracket or proper set of mounting holes on the firewall? A manual brake pedal has a different mounting bracket, and has a different hole for the master cylinder rod to bolt to. That gives the manual brake pedal more leverage then a power brake pedal has. If you used a power brake pedal in a manual brake system, you can't apply as much pressure to the manual brake system that it needs. If you mounted the manual master on the same bracket a power booster mounts to, or in the same set of holes in the firewall the booster mounted to, you have compounded the incorrect pedal problem. There are two sets of holes (or indentions for a set of holes) in the firewall to mount either a bracket the booster, or to bolt the master to, the manual master goes in the upper set of holes on the firewall, and the master cylinder rod bolts to upper hole on the pedal.
I've done probably a dozen of these conversions over the years, never had a problem with the disc brakes being worse then the drums were. Gene
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Re: More about manual disc brakes
[Re: hemienvy]
#3003675
01/09/22 11:51 PM
01/09/22 11:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,071 Oregon
AndyF
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,071
Oregon
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Car is 70 E-body. OK, I have original 10-inch rear drums and I'm adding 73 A-body front discs. Car has the original manual M/C right now. I want to keep it as manual brakes, but I could change the M/C if necessary.
Which prop valve setup do I need ? Which M/C do I need ?
Doctor Diff can provide you with what you need. All of my cars have been manual disc brake cars. They work great when you use the correct parts. If you have 15 inch wheels then you should use the 11.75 rotors rather than the smaller A body rotors. Swapping on the larger 11 inch rear brakes will also help. With manual brakes you need all the leverage that you can get.
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Re: More about manual disc brakes
[Re: 65pacecar]
#3003732
01/10/22 10:25 AM
01/10/22 10:25 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,083 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,083
Niles , Ohio
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Manual discs on my 65 B body for like 20 years now.Run a 70 C body disc master and a IIRC 5th ave PP valve.Stops great even at 120 at the strip.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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