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BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block #2998614
12/26/21 01:57 PM
12/26/21 01:57 PM
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Do any engine builders out there have any experience using this fixturing ? I'm curious how the plates locate on the engine block and control the position of the bar in the cam housing bore. I was told there are some bushings that control plate position but was wondering if anyone had some setup pics.

AG.


1970 Challenger w/572 Hemi street car and my pride and joy. 1986 T-Type with 272 Stage 2 Buick V6 engine - True 8 second street car. Just updated the engine and put down 928 HP @ 35# boost to the ground on chasis dyno. 1976 Cee Bee Avenger Jet Boat - 460 Ford powered.
Re: BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block [Re: turbobitt] #2998636
12/26/21 03:45 PM
12/26/21 03:45 PM
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Here you go - their website has a bunch of info on these items and others.


C8768ED6-32FE-4632-A33B-1F7BB6805E0E.jpegA0DA1B19-77D8-4619-A7DE-035D8076304E.jpeg
Last edited by Transman; 12/26/21 03:46 PM.
Re: BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block [Re: A727Tflite] #2998644
12/26/21 04:32 PM
12/26/21 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Transman
Here you go - their website has a bunch of info on these items and others.



Yes I seen this but didn't give me the answers I was looking for. This was just to generic.
AG.


1970 Challenger w/572 Hemi street car and my pride and joy. 1986 T-Type with 272 Stage 2 Buick V6 engine - True 8 second street car. Just updated the engine and put down 928 HP @ 35# boost to the ground on chasis dyno. 1976 Cee Bee Avenger Jet Boat - 460 Ford powered.
Re: BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block [Re: turbobitt] #2999295
12/28/21 08:33 PM
12/28/21 08:33 PM
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Its been a while since i used mine but the plates are held in place by using the main bore rod and the cam bore rod to determine the orientation of the block in relation to the top guide plate of the tool. It more or less ignores the deck surface. I can’t remember if it bolted to the front of the block. I don’t think it does.

Hope that helps, if not i can dig mine out and snap some pix later this week.

Tony

Re: BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block [Re: tony1966] #2999315
12/28/21 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by tony1966
Its been a while since i used mine but the plates are held in place by using the main bore rod and the cam bore rod to determine the orientation of the block in relation to the top guide plate of the tool. It more or less ignores the deck surface. I can’t remember if it bolted to the front of the block. I don’t think it does.

Hope that helps, if not i can dig mine out and snap some pix later this week.

Tony


Tony,
Thanks for responding. My machinist is mocking it up now and has been in contact with BHJ but I'm just doing my own independent research. . Its also been a while for him and from what it looks like the plate bolts on the front if the block and the bar that goes through the cam tunnel is located by the front plate with a specific thickness spacer to set it in the axial direction. I believe this is why the plate needs to be bolted to the front of the block even though it is located from the main bearing bar and cam tunnel bar . What I'm looking for is the spacer thickness that spaces the cam tunnel bar from the front plate, and pics would be even better. This older mega block has been a big headache with machining issues since new and just want to make sure its correct.
AG.


1970 Challenger w/572 Hemi street car and my pride and joy. 1986 T-Type with 272 Stage 2 Buick V6 engine - True 8 second street car. Just updated the engine and put down 928 HP @ 35# boost to the ground on chasis dyno. 1976 Cee Bee Avenger Jet Boat - 460 Ford powered.
Re: BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block [Re: turbobitt] #2999326
12/28/21 09:50 PM
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Cool. I can check the spacer when I get home later tonight and check out how the plates mount. Stay tuned.

Tony

Re: BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block [Re: tony1966] #2999382
12/29/21 02:53 AM
12/29/21 02:53 AM
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Yep, i had it backwards. The front plate holds everything in place and the rear plate is held by the 2 in bar and the top plate. The spacer that goes on the cam bore bar between the cam thrust surface and the front plate is 0.100 thick and has 1.978 in ID.

I forgot all about the threaded spacer tubes to take up the space between the front plate and the timing cover surface.

Ill try to pm you a picture of the instructions specific for mopar big block stuff.

Tony

Re: BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block [Re: tony1966] #2999424
12/29/21 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tony1966
Yep, i had it backwards. The front plate holds everything in place and the rear plate is held by the 2 in bar and the top plate. The spacer that goes on the cam bore bar between the cam thrust surface and the front plate is 0.100 thick and has 1.978 in ID.

I forgot all about the threaded spacer tubes to take up the space between the front plate and the timing cover surface.

Ill try to pm you a picture of the instructions specific for mopar big block stuff.

Tony

Tony,
Thank you very much for the information. This is very helpful and seems to confirm the information my machinist is getting. Would love to see the pics.
AG.


1970 Challenger w/572 Hemi street car and my pride and joy. 1986 T-Type with 272 Stage 2 Buick V6 engine - True 8 second street car. Just updated the engine and put down 928 HP @ 35# boost to the ground on chasis dyno. 1976 Cee Bee Avenger Jet Boat - 460 Ford powered.
Re: BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block [Re: turbobitt] #3002150
01/04/22 10:23 PM
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2" bar goes into main saddles using 2 spacers, one in #1 bore, one in #5 bore. Cam tunnel bar goes in cam, with 2 cam bearings installed, on #1 and #5.. There is a vertical slot, that will align with a slot on the cam tunnel fixture. A spacer goes on the end of the cam tunnel bar, then you side the front plate up against it all. The yoke will need to be " spread" with two allen bolts to open it for slip fit.Plates slide on, yoked pate to the front flat plate on rear. There is a flat washer and bolt that will bolt to front plate/cam mandrel.There are two 3/8" pipe nipples that will then be hand snugged, until they touch the block. Insert bolts into those two nipples and snug up. Tighten the yoke back up.Everything should now be tight, rear plate just along for the ride, until top register plate is attached.Top reamer guide plate will attach correctly, one way only with two allen bolts, over dowel pins in the flat of the front and rear plates.The alignment plate can only go one way and work. You will know immediately if you have the angles feet wrong, which set on the front and rear plates. The indexing to the lifter bores will be way way off. When set up properly, the reamer should slip right down and pilot itself on the tops of the lifter bores. Again, you will know when its right. It takes more time, but I highly recommend using a finish reamer after the bushings are installed. Makes the honing job way way easier. The job " can" be done on a Bridgeport, but its a lot easier on a large seat and guide machine. You will have to determine where you want oil holes in your lifter bushings, and the length of the bushing 1.500, 1600 or 1750, depending on block and preference.

Last edited by CompWedgeEngines; 01/04/22 10:24 PM.

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Re: BHJ Lifter-tru fixturing for Big block [Re: CompWedgeEngines] #3005273
01/14/22 03:05 PM
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Another question,
Does anyone enlarge the passenger side oil galley and if so, how far and what drill size. I see some books reference drilling it just past the first pair of bushings but I don't know why you wouldn't take it further.........

AG.


1970 Challenger w/572 Hemi street car and my pride and joy. 1986 T-Type with 272 Stage 2 Buick V6 engine - True 8 second street car. Just updated the engine and put down 928 HP @ 35# boost to the ground on chasis dyno. 1976 Cee Bee Avenger Jet Boat - 460 Ford powered.






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