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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2994088
12/10/21 04:06 PM
12/10/21 04:06 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,228
Colleyville
3hundred
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,228
Colleyville
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That's not good but I don't think it's the problem. Be sure to use a non magnetic feeler gauge to check the gap at .008
'68 Fury Convertible
'69 300 Convertible
'15 Durango 5.7 Hemi
'16 300 S Hemi
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: Sniper]
#2994122
12/10/21 06:01 PM
12/10/21 06:01 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
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Yes, it could very well be an issue. Reluctors are cheap and not hard to replace, pickup is probably iffy too as that is what was smacking the reluctor.
Or a whole new distributor for under $40 at Rock Auto. At first I thought, "no way do they sell one for under $40" but it's true and I'm surprised! I'll go that route because right now the cheapest I've found a reluctor and pickup is $40 so it would make sense for me just to buy a new distributor! I'm not saying I'm getting the $40 one from 'rock auto', not sure if SKP is any good but at the price I'm replacing the pickup and reluctor I'm just a few bucks shy of a new distributor. I saw many options between $40 and $100... Rock Auto is the cheapest but unless someone has kind words for SKP Distributors I probably won't get that one...
Last edited by B300 VanDanage; 12/10/21 06:30 PM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: 3hundred]
#2994131
12/10/21 06:33 PM
12/10/21 06:33 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
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That's not good but I don't think it's the problem. Be sure to use a non magnetic feeler gauge to check the gap at .008 We'll, looks like I have to wait about another week or so to get this fixed... I have 3 things to order now... I guess this gives me time to drop the fuel tank... What would happen if I use a regular feeler gauge?? 
Last edited by B300 VanDanage; 12/10/21 08:50 PM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2994191
12/10/21 09:28 PM
12/10/21 09:28 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588
Freeport IL USA
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My guess would be the bushings in the distributer shaft are loose or the shaft is bent and is letting the shaft wobble around. The teeth are damaged on both pieces because they have come in contact with each other. Are all the teeth damaged, or only the teeth on one side of the shaft? Damaged teeth on one side of the shaft would indicate a bent shaft. Can you move the shaft side to side any? Side to side movement indicates worn bushings. Worn bushings allow the shaft to wobble and the damage could be any number of teeth around the shaft, or all of them. The clearance is only .080- .010 so it wouldn't take much movement for contact to be made. If there is side to side movement, or the shaft is bent, replacing the damaged ignition pieces won't be a long lasting fix. The distributor could have been damaged when the motor was pulled out, or put back in with the motor rebuild.
I somewhat disagree with the others, if the pickup has been damaged by the contact, (the reason for the chipped teeth was contact with each other) the pickup could be failing when it gets hot, or may still be making contact if the shaft is bent or the bushings are loose. If the shaft is bent, and just part of the teeth are damaged, the odds are pretty good the pickup has been moved (at the screws) and the distance between 1/2 of the teeth that are undamaged may be on the edge of giving a good signal.
The reason Mopar instructs you to use a brass feeler gauge is because both pieces use magnetic pulses to function. A steel feeler gauge could give you a false reading of the clearance because of the magnetic pull on the steel as you check the clearances. The magnetic pull wouldn't effect the brass feeler gauge so its easier to get a good clearance feel.
Send me a PM with a mailing address. Gene
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: poorboy]
#2994247
12/11/21 12:42 AM
12/11/21 12:42 AM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
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My guess would be the bushings in the distributer shaft are loose or the shaft is bent and is letting the shaft wobble around. The teeth are damaged on both pieces because they have come in contact with each other. Are all the teeth damaged, or only the teeth on one side of the shaft? Damaged teeth on one side of the shaft would indicate a bent shaft. Can you move the shaft side to side any? Side to side movement indicates worn bushings. Worn bushings allow the shaft to wobble and the damage could be any number of teeth around the shaft, or all of them. The clearance is only .080- .010 so it wouldn't take much movement for contact to be made. If there is side to side movement, or the shaft is bent, replacing the damaged ignition pieces won't be a long lasting fix. The distributor could have been damaged when the motor was pulled out, or put back in with the motor rebuild.
I somewhat disagree with the others, if the pickup has been damaged by the contact, (the reason for the chipped teeth was contact with each other) the pickup could be failing when it gets hot, or may still be making contact if the shaft is bent or the bushings are loose. If the shaft is bent, and just part of the teeth are damaged, the odds are pretty good the pickup has been moved (at the screws) and the distance between 1/2 of the teeth that are undamaged may be on the edge of giving a good signal.
The reason Mopar instructs you to use a brass feeler gauge is because both pieces use magnetic pulses to function. A steel feeler gauge could give you a false reading of the clearance because of the magnetic pull on the steel as you check the clearances. The magnetic pull wouldn't effect the brass feeler gauge so its easier to get a good clearance feel.
Send me a PM with a mailing address. Gene I've attached pics of both sides of the reluctor... Each pic shows a tooth towards the pickup, each tooth is the exact opposite of the one in the other picture so these two pictures should show every tooth on each side! Hope that makes sense... The teeth facing the pickup in each picture aren't lined up perfectly either so disregard the gap there... I'm sorry the quality isn't very good either!  I tried to wiggle the shaft but it really doesn't move much side to side, a little but not really enough to warrant concern I don't think... In the pictures it would appear that one side has more damage than the other but they're all damaged somewhat. I guess the damage sort of does taper to one side... Bent shaft? However it happened wouldn't it had to have been recent? The truth is idk how many miles is on this rebuild. When I bought it there was supposedly about 17k miles on it and I put about 13k on it and I hadn't touched the carb or distributor since I bought it so... Thanks for the explanation of the feeler gauges, I get it... I appreciate the knowledge!   So you're really going to send me a 2210? I know you said you would replace them with 4 barrels and an intake so am I to assume it's ready to bolt on??  I really do appreciate your generosity! Thank You. The carb I have is totally warped and I can't afford a new one! The reason I didn't file it flat before assembly is because of all the channels and grooves in the casting, it would throw the whole thing off! It's not like resurfacing a block or head where there's much more meat on the bone right?... I didn't realize it could be pressed either... Seems kinda risky to me... I would also like to know the setup you replaced the 2barrel with if you don't mind...?  
Last edited by B300 VanDanage; 12/11/21 01:25 AM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2994248
12/11/21 12:54 AM
12/11/21 12:54 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,228
Colleyville
3hundred
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,228
Colleyville
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The trouble with a 4bbl conversion is the kickdown linkage. 4bbl vans used to be common in junkyards, not anymore. When I put a 4bbl on my '82 Ramcharger I went to the dealer to source parts, there was not a single kickdown part the same, not even the return springs.
So some backyard fabrication is the cheapest option today?
IIRC, the throttle kickdown linkage to the carb needs to be lengthened an inch or so? In the seventies I once spliced a piece of round rod into one for a conversion, worked fine after adjustment. That's all I recall doing, didn't change or modify anything else.
'68 Fury Convertible
'69 300 Convertible
'15 Durango 5.7 Hemi
'16 300 S Hemi
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: NITROUSN]
#2994339
12/11/21 02:02 PM
12/11/21 02:02 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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enthusiast
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Chino Valley
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Here are the facts on that style Holley. You do not file it you straighten it. If the air cleaner stud threads into the air horn than it is a early model not what a 79 would have. Those are junk. You need the long style stud that screws down into the base or mid section. The bridge kit was a band aid for this. Here is a photo. Plus your model van should have a 2245 series not the 2210. Post some pics of the stud and air horn. Yea I have the one that screws into the base with the long stud... I've always had a problem with it coming loose, when I took it apart I could see the hole is damaged and maybe even causing a vacuum leak? The threads in that hole are just about stripped out!
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: NITROUSN]
#2994349
12/11/21 02:49 PM
12/11/21 02:49 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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Chino Valley
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You got the stud upside down. Are the threads in the top/air horn or below it? Oh man...  They're below the horn... Edit: I just went out there to check and it's not because if I flip it that end isn't long enough to reach the threads... The lip prevents it from going down far enough and won't reach the threads... Maybe it's not the correct stud?
Last edited by B300 VanDanage; 12/11/21 02:57 PM.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2994354
12/11/21 03:03 PM
12/11/21 03:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,424
UPPER MICHIGAN, MARQUETTE COUN...
NITROUSN
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,424
UPPER MICHIGAN, MARQUETTE COUN...
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You got the stud upside down. Are the threads in the top/air horn or below it? Oh man... They're below the horn... Edit: I just went out there to check and it's not because if I flip it that end isn't long enough to reach the threads... The lip prevents it from going down far enough and won't reach the threads... Maybe it's not the correct stud? The lip is supposed to be able to be tightened down against the air horn. It helps prevent the warpage you have. What is the list number off that carb.
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: NITROUSN]
#2994360
12/11/21 03:16 PM
12/11/21 03:16 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
OP
enthusiast
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OP
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Chino Valley
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You got the stud upside down. Are the threads in the top/air horn or below it? Oh man... They're below the horn... Edit: I just went out there to check and it's not because if I flip it that end isn't long enough to reach the threads... The lip prevents it from going down far enough and won't reach the threads... Maybe it's not the correct stud? The lip is supposed to be able to be tightened down against the air horn. It helps prevent the warpage you have. What is the list number off that carb. I understand, must be the wrong stud... Carb # is: R6765A 3751465 3383 Those are all the numbers on the carb...
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: B300 VanDanage]
#2994736
12/12/21 08:59 PM
12/12/21 08:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588
Freeport IL USA
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Dan, Any carb I have here has been out of service for probably close to 20 years. It won't be a bolt on and go. I haven't had anything with a carb since 2011 (except the lawnmower), and that would have been a 4bbl on a 360 in a truck that got totaled in 2011. I believe I have a 2bbl carb still bolted to the manifold on a 77, 78, or 79, 360 out of a van in my lower garage, but it was years ago it ran, and then the motor had 200,000 miles on it. I do have a box full of those 360 or the big block 2bbl carbs in that lower garage as well.
Those 4bbl swaps I did was way back in the last century. I used a factory intake and a rebuilt carb. I either sourced the kickdown stuff from a junk yard, or fabricated my own linkage, probably neither of which could easily be done these days. I still have a bunch of the kickdown linkage here, but identifying what it used to be on would be a challenge. I believe the 4bbl kick down linkage was a 3 rod linkage with 2 pivots.
I'll look around tomorrow and see what is still here as for 2bbl carbs, the last few years have been shop cleanup. Gene
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Re: Engine not starting, carb backfires!
[Re: poorboy]
#2994924
12/13/21 02:17 PM
12/13/21 02:17 PM
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
B300 VanDanage
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enthusiast
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OP
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Joined: May 2021
Posts: 335
Chino Valley
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Dan, Any carb I have here has been out of service for probably close to 20 years. It won't be a bolt on and go. I haven't had anything with a carb since 2011 (except the lawnmower), and that would have been a 4bbl on a 360 in a truck that got totaled in 2011. I believe I have a 2bbl carb still bolted to the manifold on a 77, 78, or 79, 360 out of a van in my lower garage, but it was years ago it ran, and then the motor had 200,000 miles on it. I do have a box full of those 360 or the big block 2bbl carbs in that lower garage as well.
Those 4bbl swaps I did was way back in the last century. I used a factory intake and a rebuilt carb. I either sourced the kickdown stuff from a junk yard, or fabricated my own linkage, probably neither of which could easily be done these days. I still have a bunch of the kickdown linkage here, but identifying what it used to be on would be a challenge. I believe the 4bbl kick down linkage was a 3 rod linkage with 2 pivots.
I'll look around tomorrow and see what is still here as for 2bbl carbs, the last few years have been shop cleanup. Gene Hey, whatever helps get this van back in action I appreciate! I'll be happy just getting this thing working again and the 4bbl swap was just a thought since you mentioned you've gotten better mileage out of it... Somebody mentioned it... If it's not as easy as swapping the intake and carb then I won't bother... At least not any time soon... I've spent so much time on this van but it's so important to have it working because of how far I live away from any city... I'm waiting on a new distributor and a new rebuild kit... I'll be pulling the carb off and attempt to straighten it some time in the next couple of days. I really don't like the idea of pressing the carb on a press but I guess that's how it's done? I feal like the thing will just shatter! Hopefully I don't break it.
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and check it on all 8 points as the shaft could be bent. That most likely is not all your problems but it needs to be right.
