rear end choices
#2987765
11/22/21 11:28 AM
11/22/21 11:28 AM
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 95 Cumming Georgia
cspracer
OP
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OP
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 95
Cumming Georgia
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I am looking at beefing up the drive shaft and rear end in my drag car and wanted to hear opinions.
What is the car? 1970 Satellite 440 footbrake/7.0 index 1/8th mile car Current HP roughly 450 with plans to go to 550 HP over the next two years Car weighs 2860 lbs empty and 3100 with me in it Using Hoosier 29x9.0 radial drag slicks Current set-up is an 8 3/4 489 w/4.88 gear stock posi unit Drive shaft is stock Pinion snubber Stock springs Stock axles
Options: I have another 489 w/4.56 gear on a spool I also have an empty 8 3/4 housing I am thinking of building this and adding Calvert racing springs & Caltracs If I did this, I would buy next Strange axels and probably upgrade the yoke to a 1350
My second choice would be to simply buy a new Dana set-up from Strange
Obviously the second option would be more expensive, but since I am planning to change the springs to Calvert and upgrade the yoke either way, I wondered should I build the 8 3/4 or not? The advantages I see to the 8 3/4 would be: 1. Weight 2. Cost 3. Flexibility in changing gears, (this does matter as I usually run 1/8th mile, but would like the option of running a 1/4). If I bought the Dana, I could always keep the 8 3/4 I have and put a 4.10 gear in it for 1/4 mile runs. IS it easier to swap the center chunk from an 8 3/4 or swap the two setups out all together?
It comes down to either spending the $700-$800 on the axles and yoke for a 8 3/4 or using this money towards buying a Dana.
The question is, How would you compare a 489 8 3/4 with a 1350 yoke and spool and Strange racing axles to the Strange Dana?
What would you do?
1968 - 383 Roadrunner 4 speed street car, Dad bought new 1970 - 440 Roadrunner drag footbrake car 6.99 1/8th 2016 - Hemi RAM 1500 - Hauls all the toys North Georgia / Central NC
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: cspracer]
#2987775
11/22/21 11:57 AM
11/22/21 11:57 AM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864 Pattison Texas
CSK
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master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864
Pattison Texas
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Get a S60, D60 & a driveshaft from Mark Williams , I learned the hard way with the 8 3/4, AND Mark Williams can spin the driveshaft to the RPM that your combo runs for the balance, others can only spin them 500 rpm, another expensive lesson learned, all said I wasted about $2700 on blown up 8 3/4's & chasing a drive line vibration, its all fixed now !!!!!!
1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI 512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim 2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: CSK]
#2987811
11/22/21 01:41 PM
11/22/21 01:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,924 A shed in England
Tig
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,924
A shed in England
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I'm seriously considering going to an aftermarket 9". Easier to change and more "pro gear" ratios available.
'74 Challenger..9.46 @ 145.9 1/4, 6.001 @ 118 1/8 so far. 4023lb !!! # N/A, Marsh performance 655ci, Indy Maxx, T/R, Indy 600-13 X's, Street legal, pump gas, full interior, Cal-Tracs, mufflers, 3:73's and real 10.5 radials. 9.51 @ 142.4 1/4, 6.003 @ 114 1/8 with our old mule KB, 572-13, 580 wedge. RHD '68 Barracuda Fastback 323ci street/strip. Best ET 13.88 @ 99.03
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: Tig]
#2987820
11/22/21 01:59 PM
11/22/21 01:59 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,602 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,602
Fulton County, PA
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500+ hp, relatively heavy car...
60 or a 9", no debate. Throwing out all the arguments - cost, Ferd parts in a Mopar, etc, - 9" all day long.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: AndyF]
#2987833
11/22/21 02:17 PM
11/22/21 02:17 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,369 Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,369
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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I wouldn't spend any money on a 8 3/4 rearend for a drag race car. Either put a Dana 60 in it or just convert now to a 9 inch. Sell all of your 8 3/4 stuff to fund the switch. The Dana 60 is a little less expensive than a 9 inch but not as easy to get parts for. If you are sticking with deep gears then a Dana 60 will work okay. A 9 inch is well suited for the bigger buck cars that are making more power and going faster. THIS!!! You can convert a truck/van Dana 60 for a lot less than the S60 costs. The S60 is really nice though w/ those side adjusters.
CHIP '70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60 '69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60 '71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75 '73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75 '90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt '06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: an8sec70cuda]
#2987855
11/22/21 02:52 PM
11/22/21 02:52 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,115 Byron, NY
W.I.N. Racing
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,115
Byron, NY
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I wouldn't spend any money on a 8 3/4 rearend for a drag race car. Either put a Dana 60 in it or just convert now to a 9 inch. Sell all of your 8 3/4 stuff to fund the switch. The Dana 60 is a little less expensive than a 9 inch but not as easy to get parts for. If you are sticking with deep gears then a Dana 60 will work okay. A 9 inch is well suited for the bigger buck cars that are making more power and going faster. THIS!!! You can convert a truck/van Dana 60 for a lot less than the S60 costs. The S60 is really nice though w/ those side adjusters. regarding the gear swap issue, I've set up multiple sets in one D60 housing, and stored the shims, bearings and gears(with spool) set together for future quick swap in that housing. Once you have the shims required its just preload and verify BL.
'01 P1500, Blown/Inj BAE,/Veney ,Bruno/CS2,Dana 60 '01 Dodge 3500 S Cummins Auto, Fresh air kit, 4" Exhaust, '05 Dodge Magnum R/T - Too Much to list '60 Willys CJ5 '01 International LPX - Project,DT466, Allison '64 Plymouth Valiant, Inj 528 Hemi, 2spd
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: cspracer]
#2987860
11/22/21 03:04 PM
11/22/21 03:04 PM
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 95 Cumming Georgia
cspracer
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OP
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 95
Cumming Georgia
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Thanks to everyone. Cab I am always interested to see what you have to say. I agree that fixing it once and doing it right is probably the best option. It seems unanimous that you all believe the 9" or Dana is the way to go, and if I am going to do it, I might as well do like Cab said and go ahead and narrow it and change the suspension once. My budget is not unlimited and it will require me to hold off on other upgrades, but until I have replaced the drive shaft and rear end, I do not think I want to push for any more than 500 HP.
Thanks to all who responded.
1968 - 383 Roadrunner 4 speed street car, Dad bought new 1970 - 440 Roadrunner drag footbrake car 6.99 1/8th 2016 - Hemi RAM 1500 - Hauls all the toys North Georgia / Central NC
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: dOoC]
#2987889
11/22/21 04:07 PM
11/22/21 04:07 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,602 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,602
Fulton County, PA
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Do the Super A cars still run the 12 bolt Chebby ?
Supposedly the less parasitic drag of any rear end out there ....,with decent strength in the package Not since you were a pup. Pro Stock tech 9". Ceramic bearings, Lightweight, titanium, REM, etc. Rules say OEM type housing only. No 100% fabbed sheetmetal housing. Don't know if the tech guys get down on their hands and knees and look anymore though. Prolly not on the shootout cars. Big block/Hemi Stockers use a 60 with good parts..
Last edited by CMcAllister; 11/22/21 04:09 PM.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: dOoC]
#2987912
11/22/21 04:45 PM
11/22/21 04:45 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864 Pattison Texas
CSK
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master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864
Pattison Texas
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Well Mr Helpful ... which rear end has the less drag ? A mopar 7.5
1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI 512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim 2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: CSK]
#2987931
11/22/21 05:36 PM
11/22/21 05:36 PM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,444 Florida STAYcation
dOoC
The village idiot's idiot
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The village idiot's idiot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,444
Florida STAYcation
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Well Mr Helpful ... which rear end has the less drag ? A mopar 7.5 7.5 ?
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: dOoC]
#2987969
11/22/21 07:11 PM
11/22/21 07:11 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,602 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,602
Fulton County, PA
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Well Mr Helpful ... which rear end has the less drag ? Ever spin the yoke on a good Dewco unit? On stock style units with standard bearings, preload, etc, the pinion being low on the ring gear is a disadvantage due to drag. Gear design and treatment, the best bearings, set up, etc., pretty much eliminates that. Aftermarket parts, support and development, ratios, etc makes it a no brainer. Just like engine, chassis and everything else tech, that stuff flows downhill to the lowly bracket and class racer. The 9", and designs based on it, are standard issue for everything up to the real fast stuff.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: dOoC]
#2988016
11/22/21 08:56 PM
11/22/21 08:56 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,602 Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
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Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,602
Fulton County, PA
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Do you have a list of the bester ones and drag numbers ?
I’ve got a 12 bolt in that 27 roadster.... I don't. If it blows up the first time you take your thumb off the button, it doesn't really matter how efficient it is. M I right?
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
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Re: rear end choices
[Re: CMcAllister]
#2988066
11/22/21 11:54 PM
11/22/21 11:54 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319 Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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I broke, rebuilt, broke, rebuilt and broke again my 8-3/4 over the past 5 years. The second time I fixed it, I did it right with a backbrace, 35-spline spool and steel maincaps. It seemed to be just fine set up like that. This latest breakage really wasn’t the fault of anything in the rear end, but my welds on the spring perches broke, and carnage ensued. I finally decided I wasn’t going to spend any more money on the 8-3/4”. I had a local racer buddy build me a Dana for a little less than an S60, and I’m really happy with that decision, as now I can move on to other needs with the car without ever worrying about the rear end again.
My experience is that weight kills 8-3/4’s. If it were an A-body you were working with, I might say the 8-3/4 is worthy of investment. In a B-Body, I’d suggest moving to the Dana. 9” in a 70 B-body???…. Nah.
Last edited by StealthWedge67; 11/23/21 12:02 AM.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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