https://mymopar.com/

may not go late enough but there are service manuals and part manuals for free here.

That's great to hear and Happy belated Thanksgiving!

Definitely keep us updated either way and if we're still experiencing the same problem we'll start looking at timing and some other possibilities.

Look forward to hearing from ya!

soak the gaskets in wd40 a little while and they should not stick.

and after you rebuild you carb just make sure you do NOT have any WATER/MOISTURE in your fuel tank/line/filter/pump

I just figured this out myself after 350$ of troubleshootin/rebuilding as I had hard starting-no starting and what I thought was vapor locking THEN no ign spark with low power/carb backfire/stalling & exhaust backfire

2 carbs x2 rebuilds

2 ign. systems.

fuel pump then convert to eclectic pump with a return line.

found 1.5 gallons of water in 22-gallon tank when I drained it, flushed it.

complete fix was a can of BG fuel drier!

nothing more disappointing than rebuilding 2 different carbs only to fill them with water/fuel again to finally figuring out the issue and rebuild one a 3x after a tank flush/fuel drier/22 gallons run through it. engine runs great now.

if I had only started by checking the fuel first.

Hi B300,

I fished out the check weight that I believe came out of a 2210 that I presume is stock and it measured .182 and .667 on my calipers for reference. Keep in mind my caliper says "West Germany" on it so its a bit old but probably still good!

Regarding the gaskets, the ones from the Hygrade kits seem to have less problem with sticking. Although an experienced mechanic (Uncle Tony) has suggested that the old Holley gaskets were purposely made sticky to compensate for warping in the carb castings that Holley became aware of somewhere along the line.

Another poster mentioned checking gas tank and if you haven't done so, now is a great time to do it. There's nothing more frustrating than gumming up a newly rebuilt needle and seat due to particulate matter in that tank!

RTV and gas is a no-no. Pull it back apart and get it in a press to straighten it. The air cleaner stud should go all the way through to the base to keep this from happening, If your air horn has the stud tapped into the top air horn you have a 76 or older carb. There was an old TSB that had instructions along with a bridge kit to help correct this.

out of curiosity, have you taken the sending unit out of the tank to check for a clogged pickup sock ?

maybe, maybe not. depending on when and how you visualized the carb squirt.
i had a 74 newyorker stump me with this one time. although it didn't backfire, it ran great, then would just quit. sometimes going down the road, idling, WOT, you never knew when.
i replaced the fuel pump, filter, rebuilt the carb, on and on.
then for some reason, and i can't remember why, i pulled the tank, and found it crusty and the sock plugged.
now i had owned this car for a while, and did not have any problems with it. oil changes, fresh gas all the time , etc.

i know this may be a very LONG shot, but who knows ?
just throwing something out there that may, or may not be even remotely related.

and i just thought of something else that bit me in the azz one time, causing similar problems. my cousin Charlie's model A hot rod.
that turned out to be a PLUGGED "vented" gas cap !
same deal. run good, good carb stream, then poof ! quit ! ....... fire up ok right after, then same thing.

as 'ol Cab says, "that DADGUMMED Murphy guy !"

is the float set too low?

Too bad you are so far away. I have 4 or 5 of these carbs sitting in my lower garage I'd give you. I've always replaced these 2bbls with a 4 bbl carb & intake.

From past experience, if the top is (or has been) warped, those carbs never work right. When the top gets distorted, I believe it messes other stuff up. You can press them flat, and file them flat, but most still didn't work well afterwards (I rebuilt carbs for a shop for several years).

Just a few comments about your expectations concerning your 360. I've owned a lot of them, and 15 mpg is probably not going to happen, maybe a rare long trip on flat ground a time or two over a 1000 fill ups. Those motors are a 8-12 mpg motors, regardless of what they were installed in, or regardless of any thing you try to do to improve the mpg. I could get near 12 more often with a 4 barrel carb, but rarely got there with a 2 bbl. You can make a lot of power with a 360, and they can built to be very fast, or they can be built to drag a house off its foundation, just don't expect more the 8-12 mpg at best (many were 8-10 mpg).

The fuel sock in the tank could be a problem, as could any hose in the fuel line, or any steel line that looks a little crusty. Any original looking hose or steel line is game to cause a problem. You only need a restricted fuel flow enough to empty the float bowl for a few seconds to make a motor die.

A plugged vented gas cap is as easy to check, remove the cap, leave it off, and see if the motor runs longer. If it does, replace the cap. I suspect your 79 van does not have a vented cap, it likely has a vent line that goes to a carbon canister, but if that vented line is plugged, or partially plugged, you can still test that by removing the gas cap. If removing the gas cap makes it run longer, you need to check your gas tank vent system. Again, any original looking hose or steel line could be the problem, if a vent problem is found. If removing the gas cap does not solve your problem, anything you do with the vent system won't help and would be a waste of time and money at this point. Gene

My 2002 360 magnum was injected and got 12 to 14 in a 3/4 ton van on all interstate trips.
Don't think a carbed one can do it.
The carbed one I had got 10 to 11