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Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN
[Re: poorboy]
#2994768
12/12/21 09:59 PM
12/12/21 09:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,226
ILLINOIS
volaredon
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,226
ILLINOIS
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I'm probably out of line here, but I think I would look into moving the the resister to a different location where there may be more, or cooler air flow. If you need to change the pigtail, I would also check into using the old style blower motor resistor in that different location.
The purpose of the blower resistor is to reduce the voltage to the blower motor, and the reason for putting it in the heater box duct work is to help cool it. Nothing says the resister needs to be placed in the heater unit or the heater duct work, just that the blower motor wiring and the switch wiring needs to be connected to it to function. You can leave the dead resister mounted in its original position to plug the hole in the heater box/duct work, just don't connect the wire plug to it, connect the wire plug to the other unit in its new location.
I build hot rods, the blower motor resister on my 49 truck is between the fender and the inner fender where it is kept dry, out of harms way, out of the way where things flammable can't reach it, and has enough air moving past it to keep it cool. The heater box and duct wort are a least 12" away from the resister. Gene That is exactly what I would like to do with this one with some kind of heavier duty pigtail and resistor.
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Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN
[Re: volaredon]
#2995134
12/14/21 12:29 AM
12/14/21 12:29 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
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I'm probably out of line here, but I think I would look into moving the the resister to a different location where there may be more, or cooler air flow. If you need to change the pigtail, I would also check into using the old style blower motor resistor in that different location.
The purpose of the blower resistor is to reduce the voltage to the blower motor, and the reason for putting it in the heater box duct work is to help cool it. Nothing says the resister needs to be placed in the heater unit or the heater duct work, just that the blower motor wiring and the switch wiring needs to be connected to it to function. You can leave the dead resister mounted in its original position to plug the hole in the heater box/duct work, just don't connect the wire plug to it, connect the wire plug to the other unit in its new location.
I build hot rods, the blower motor resister on my 49 truck is between the fender and the inner fender where it is kept dry, out of harms way, out of the way where things flammable can't reach it, and has enough air moving past it to keep it cool. The heater box and duct wort are a least 12" away from the resister. Gene That is exactly what I would like to do with this one with some kind of heavier duty pigtail and resistor. The resister I uses was from a 91- 96 Dakota with air. It looked pretty much like the old resistors from the 70- 80s Dodge trucks. I cut the wires on the pig tail from a Dakota wiring harness, extended the wires to reach where I mounted the resistor, and crimped the wires on both ends with the heat shrink butt connectors, the same way I did my 48 Plymouth coupe, and its been trouble free for more then 10 years. The coupe doesn't see much heater use though, it gets parked at the first road salting. Gene
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Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN
[Re: volaredon]
#2995363
12/14/21 08:22 PM
12/14/21 08:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,538
Freeport IL USA
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I have a 96 Dakota, still driving it. Have had several 87-96s and never had the blower resistor problem with all of those combined (I've had 5-6 of them) as I have with this Durango. Would it not make sense to go back to a set up that actually functioned then? If the "new" system doesn't work, maybe its time to go back to the old proven effective system. Get the resister and pig tail from the older Dakota and adapt it to the modern version, then put it someplace where it can get some air flow, that new location doesn't even have to be in the heating system. It almost sounds to me that the "new" heater box has some poor air flow places and Dodge decided one of those places with poor air flow was a great location for the heater resister. Or they went too far on cutting the material list and have too small of connections/components for it to function properly, or both. Giving this some more thought, I wonder how much effect the problems Dodge has with the blend door failures is effecting the resister's life span? Gene
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Re: durango blower motor resistor AGAIN
[Re: poorboy]
#2995393
12/14/21 11:38 PM
12/14/21 11:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,226
ILLINOIS
volaredon
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,226
ILLINOIS
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I have a 96 Dakota, still driving it. Have had several 87-96s and never had the blower resistor problem with all of those combined (I've had 5-6 of them) as I have with this Durango. Would it not make sense to go back to a set up that actually functioned then? [/b]
If the "new" system doesn't work, maybe its time to go back to the old proven effective system. Get the resister and pig tail from the older Dakota and adapt it to the modern version, then put it someplace where it can get some air flow, that new location doesn't even have to be in the heating system. It almost sounds to me that the "new" heater box has some poor air flow places and Dodge decided one of those places with poor air flow was a great location for the heater resister. Or they went too far on cutting the material list and have too small of connections/components for it to function properly, or both.
[b] That's what I had in mind, I thought Id mentioned it somewhere else. I do have to ask though// this Durango has a "backwards" system like alot of newer vehicle systems/ instead of constant ground and vary the hot, this one has constant power and varies resistance on the ground side. I think it's dumb. I need to find something (car/truck) with 5 pins, like this one has, that works on the same principal for this to work. I see topics/complaints about this series Durango with this very issue all the time, it isnt just mine doing this.
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