This topic is 572 B1 org Part 5 - Build Notes
Here is my plan for posting progress:

572 B1 org Part 1-Buying Parts
572 B1 org Part 2-Component Observations
572 B1 org Part 3-Machine Shop Report
572 B1 org Part 4-Mock-ups
572 B1 org Part 5-Build Notes
572 B1 org Part 6-Dyno Results
572 B1 org Part 7-Track Testing

Engine Summary:
572 CID (4.500” bore x 4.500” stroke) 14.3 CR Approximately 14.7 CR (final CR will be after measuring piston to deck during assembly)
B1 original Heads, CNC Ported 429/326 cfm at 0.800” lift, milled to 60cc chambers, 332cc intake ports, 125cc exhaust ports
T&D paired rocker arms 1.7 ratio, part number 8013, 5/8” shafts
B1 cast single 4-barrel intake manifold with RB spacers.
ICON Elite forged Pistons # IC433CAKTS.std with rings & 0.185” wall Trend wrist pins, 1.355 Compression height, -6.5cc net relief, lateral gas ported
Rings 0.043" top SS with CrN, 1/16" Napier 2nd, 3/16" oil ring
Cometic 5-layer MLS head gaskets 4.530” dia x 0.056” thick
Cam duration 282/295 at 0.050”, 0.800” lift, 113 LSA
7/16 dia Comp Cams 8649 pushrods, 9.800” long, 0.165” wall, ball-ball ends, pushrod oiling
2-1/4” primary headers with 4” collectors

Part 5 – Bearing Clearances. Build Notes

0.0028” to 0.0029” Main Bearings Clevite MS1277HG full groove
0.0026” to 0.0027” Rod Bearings Clevite CB743 (half HN, half HXN)
I used one bearing shell from the HN bearings and one shell from the HXN bearings to get this clearance.

Part 5 – Main Cap Install (tool). Build Notes

I use this main cap install tool to press the caps straight down. I made this when I had the KB aluminum block.
It makes installing main caps with the side bolts easy. And since I don't have to tap the caps with a hammer, the bearing shells stay in place during installation.

The plates that bolt to the oil pan rail have a series of holes to align each cap position with the press.

Part 5 – Main Studs, BMP Block. Build Notes

The BMP block comes with ARP main studs. These are the dimensions.

That's pretty slick. Thanks for sharing.

I've use a plastic and rubber tip hammer
I would have never thought of doing what your doing, yours is Good

Sometimes with tight fitting side bolted caps, the bearing shell will fall out when tapping the cap down with a mallet, etc.
I have seen some people use a zip tie to hold the bearing shell, until just before the cap reaches the crankshaft, then remove the zip tie and tap all the way down.
This fixture uses little force since it presses straight and even (centered).

Jim i use the exact same thing to press the caps on. Also use a threaded rod with a washer and nut to pull the cap out. One thing i do you may want to do, use a scrap piece of 1/2 or thick alum between the cap and the press. Saves the cap from getting any scratches/marks on it. Not sure if it really matters but that what i have been doing

i say so as well !

I use the long threaded rod to pull them also. I actually used a 3/8 threaded rod that I turned down the end on the lathe to 5/16" and rethreaded it to fit the caps. Overkill, yes...
A slide hammer does work fine for removal, but since I have the main cap "bridge" it is nicer to smoothly pull the cap off.

Part 5 – Internal oil pickup block-off. Build Notes

I am using the Milodon external oil pickup lines through the oil pan, so the internal oil pickup hole needs to be blocked-off.
I used a ¾” freeze plug in the BMP block hole (with Loctite), and for good measure also made a retention plate so the freeze plug could never fall into the engine. The retention plate replaces the ½ NPT adaptor that comes with the BMP block. Loctite the ¼ allen head bolts and torque to 100 lb-in.

Part 5 – Piston Ring end gap. Build Notes

I finished file fitting my rings to set the end gap.
0.022” Top ring 0.043” (Gas ported piston)
0.025” 2nd ring 1/16” Napier

Nice detail!
Did similar on the "Pre-Callies" MP/World/FCA iron.
Pic added for a handy part number.

Yes, that is the freeze plug (expansion plug) I used.
Dorman 555-012 Steel Cup Expansion Plug 3/4 In.,
Height: 0.250
Closed End Diameter: 0.747 in
Open End Diameter: 0.760 in
Describe Type: Cup Type
Material: Steel

I am trying to put some time into assembling this motor....
Today I assembled the pistons to the rods. I am careful, and painfully slow; but progress!
The first Spirolox took about the same amount of time as doing the last 4 pistons combined.
I don't build new motors too often... And my fingers are not small.

Looks good Jim!

Part 5 – Compression Ratio. Build Notes

After putting the pistons/rods in the block, I was able to measure the actual piston to deck height. The machine shop decked the block to remove the minimum needed to make sure it was square and even with the desired surface finish. They didn’t report a final deck height, so the actual piston to deck was used to calculate the deck height of 10.725”. The rod lengths were measured and were spot on the spec 7.100” length. The pistons are 0.020” down the hole. I was expecting about 0.015” since I thought the final deck height was going to be shorter. I am using custom sized Cometic 5-layer MLS head gaskets with a 4.530” bore and 0.056” thickness. This makes the final Compression Ratio 14.3

Part 5 – Blue Print Measurements. Build Notes

I like to document or “Blue Print” my race engines. The crank endplay was 0.005” with the new main bearings (MS1277HG). The torque required to turn the engine was 30 ft-lbs. This is mostly from the rings. Both the ring widths and the oil ring tension affects this. Here is one sheet I made from assembly measurements.

Did you 'drag-check' the oil rings with a fish scale? I know some that have gotten away from the practice of adjusting and reducing tension on the oil rings. On my 3/16 oil rings, i was able to set the drag about 11lbs. But i have a drysump which puts a vacuum on the crankcase.

No I did not. I probably should have done that before putting the crank in the block. I have done that before.
That is the only way to be sure how much drag is from the oil rings. Some is from the tacky assembly lube in the bearings too.
My previous 4.500" bore motor (in 2014) needed 25 ft-lbs to turn everything. 0.043/0.043/(3/16) Total Seal rings that are marketed as standard tension. But "standard" could be 18 lbs tension or 22 lbs etc.; I have seen some specs for low tension very from 11 to 16 lbs.