We’ve all seen the “should I s60? ….or 9 inch?” Discussions…. We went the S60 route years ago and it’s been very “set it and forget it” so far. My question is what center section for a 9” would you need to keep a high reliability level? I see center sections from 900 to 2k…. It’s Saturday night… I’m bored… looking for an education

The 741 case that some ignore is beefier than the Ford 9 inch.

www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/rearend-pinion-comparison/

HEMI Joel has a complete Moser aluminum center section in his HEMI Coupe. 10 bolt front pinion support. If I was to switch to a 9”, that is what I’d get. Very nice piece.

Strange cast iron with the 3 1/2 " housing bore is what I have used for a good while.
35 spline requires it.
I haven't gone for the pro gear set up yet , but aluminum Daytona style pinion support , billet yoke and good gears ( I like U.S. gear ) and quality bearings ........... they are pretty hard to hurt.
I have a factory N case in the street car , but for racing or higher horse deals , aftermarket case is the way to go.
I have been intrigued by the aluminum case , but haven't done one for myself yet.
Never had a car or deal where it would have made the difference.

I told Moser that everything was being built for 1,000 horsepower. I bought axles and a complete center section. It was $3500. I still have not broke it. Birdtracker

I disagree.

Stock 9" stuff is nothing to get excited about. Aftermarket stuff needed for all but the mildest application.

How fancy and/or expensive depends on what you are going to do with it.

I guess it all depends on you weight, power, and traction. Light car under 3000# a cast aluminum carrier would live with an automatic foot brake car. Heavy car with good traction will need a billet or iron case. Strange or MW make some good cases and there are many new castings made overseas for about half the price of the American made stuff. I have set up a few Yukon carriers and they are machined "okay" but they need to be de-burred and cleaned up more than a name brand American unit. 9-10 second car I would use a Strange iron case with large bore with 35 spline axles and make sure to use a Daytona pinion support.
The Strange ultra 9 1/2" case will handle a ton of abuse as well as some of the billet units from Tom's and a few others in the all out race price range.
That said I built a factory nodular case with some good parts 20 years ago and it's still going strong in a low 9 second Camaro

Gus

Just call Cass and tell him that you want the same thing I got.

Any chance you weighed that Andy?

Like I said we stopped the 8.75 bleeding long ago and went the “dumptruck” rear option (S-60… also from the good Dr). Even our high 9 combo was twisting up axles pretty good. Having had been around a couple 8.75 failures which in turn destroyed two transmissions, we stepped up. We’re currently running a set of 4.56 gears that we’ve put on well over 250 passes…. and they were used from a friend. If I were to be at that crossroad today I’d be going the 9” route. Prob just from a parts availability standpoint. Just never see the conversation on which parts are required for success.

I didn't have any problem coming up with a parts list. Just asked a few questions on here, talked Cass and talked with the local chassis builder. The local chassis guy does about 20 cars a year with 9 inch rears so he just about has the parts catalog memorized. They know what parts to use for 7 second cars all the way to street rods. The 9 inch in my pictures was built by Strange and was a little overkill for my application but I figured since I was ordering it I might as well put the good parts in it the first time.

WOW .... PRETTY TRUE !!!
LMAO they going to crucify you now

Anyway...i have used strange iron housings and even the "lightweight" low hp alum case (non bolt thru)
Currently im using a Mark Williams Pro stock center. Alum bolt thru with alum spool and yoke and lightened ring gear.
Have had good results (no failures0 with any so far

The ONLY factory ford 9" part you can use is the axle housing and even that needs a backbrace welded on. The stock 9" centersections are weak, unless you have one of the factory Hi-perf nodular ones, but those still need the good pinion support.

Years ago I was building a backhalved Duster w/ ladder bars and a 9" rear. I had a complete Moser iron centersection w/ a spool and 35 spline axles. The centersection alone cost $1300 and that was back in 2006 or so.

If it ain't broke don't fix it
Dana 60 rule
They push easier also

Summers Brothers Axles use to always cure our axle issues...