At what point do you guys recommend going from solid mounts to a motor plate? Current combo running 11 teens in 3550 lb 68 b body, stock stroke 440 with moroso solid mounts, 8.50 cert cage and welded in us car tool frame connectors. Reason I ask is I am swapping motor over the winter to a 493 trick flow 270 headed motor that should make just over 700. Can I stay with current solid mounts or is it time to step up to a plate? Pros and cons ? Thanks

Always....I see no Pro's to using motor mounts...

I figured as much thanks! Plan is to swap to plate, I’ve seen some guys running similar combos with solid mounts so just looking for opinions 👍🏻👍🏻

Solid mounts are more rigid, Sure, stops the engine from hitting the hood, but they are still in the way, and are a pain to get to.

Plate because like many things on racecar…. Easier

Plate if you want to relocate the engine, or lose the stock K-frame or torsion bars. I would put a mid plate in it if I used a front plate. Limiters too. Easy to get the trans in or out.

Buddy of mine has a big block stick car, 33-3400# maybe. Will go mid to low 9s with low 1.30 60s. Can go into the 1,20s if he gets after it. Solid steel mounts in the stock location.

I like the plates for all the reasons mentioned above. I love mine. Really nice being about to mount stuff to the plate so it all stays w/ the motor and not on the firewall or fenderwells.

Always heard solid stock style motor mounts distort the sides/cylinder walls of the block...especially in something that makes good power. Can't help but think there's truth to that given how much things move around in the block w/ loads placed here and there.

I have never used a motor plate, but have been thinking about it. From what I see the plate uses the water pump bolts to hold it to the block. So if the whole front of the engine is on those bolts, does that cause added stress to the block?

I've had four cars, A B, and E bodies, two with elephant ears and two with front motor plates, no complaints or evidence of bad results from then running hundreds of passes so far as well as several thousand miles on the street with the elephant ears

There is a lot of beef around the water pump where a BBM plate bolts to...Never been an issue. And preferably, set your tabs up so it sits on the frame rails is the easy way to go.

No, strength is not an issue with a motor plate. There are lots of other issues with motor plates but strength isn't one of them.

I was told years ago by a person everyone knows, the thin cast stock blocks will distort and break. This is where the half plate "brace", rubber mount on the left, solid mount on the right deal for Stock Eliminator originated and was used a lot by others years ago.

Fasteners in the front of the block are being stressed in a different direction. The whole front of the block is used to attach the plate.

As opposed to a 4" square section of the side of the block that is trying to be jerked directly away from the block at the hit.

Use limiters and it is locked in.

And always weld the brackets on the frame that the plate bolts to BEHIND the plate.

I will only use the motor plate now - I especially like Andy's - best one I have found yet and it is so easy to center-up and install mounts

We used to use the old elephant ears - I have an original sox & martin set - I have used for a pattern many times

Hurt #3 cy in two blocks with solid mounts. I switch to a motor plate no more problems

A mid plate is a good idea as well.