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Post deleted by Defbob [Re: BIG BEAR] #295004
04/22/09 05:41 PM
04/22/09 05:41 PM

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Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: thecarfarmer] #295005
04/22/09 05:49 PM
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thats one of the hardest things, to incorporate something or take away something on the block and still be able to please everyone.

Re: Iron or Aluminum? #295006
04/22/09 06:22 PM
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Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: BIG BEAR] #295007
04/22/09 06:45 PM
04/22/09 06:45 PM
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I'd fall into the 1500 block category, so this is all low dollar opinion.
Do a low deck in aluminum, with a strong bottom end with meat for aftermarket main designs (not delivered), leave the pickup boss and hole out, just partially drill the fuel pump boss (no center hole or tapping) so the do it yourself guy could do the rest if needed, make the outside look as stock as possible (think stealth not e-brock), make it able to handle stroker assemblys, aftermarket heads, stock cover and oil pan rails, only external change I'd like is the screw in core plugs. Keep the after sale machine work to a minimum, so savings up front isn't gobbled up before assembly. That would pry another 500 out of my pocket pretty easy, making it a 2000-2500 block.
I don't want yet another high dollar block that the machine shop has to work on for another couple weeks, or one that I have to stand in line behind the big boys, waiting my turn or even worse, have them hand-select the best and I get the cast-offs.

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: BIG BEAR] #295008
04/22/09 11:22 PM
04/22/09 11:22 PM
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Quote:

so would you say that the market for the stock deck hight block is just not there(no matter what manufacturer)?




I'm lost on this , you do realize mopar made 2 deck height blocks ??? 10.725 raised deck , whic is what the aftermarket mostly caters to , and the 9.980 low deck which you can get , but only in alum $$$ .

Make an affordable low deck in iron and you will sell them . The B1 setup is based on a low deck block , you have to run intake spacers to put them on an RB block ...

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: JohnRR] #295009
04/23/09 12:40 AM
04/23/09 12:40 AM
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Rock Springs
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Quote:

Quote:

so would you say that the market for the stock deck hight block is just not there(no matter what manufacturer)?




I'm lost on this , you do realize mopar made 2 deck height blocks ??? 10.725 raised deck , which is what the aftermarket mostly caters to , and the 9.980 low deck which you can get , but only in alum $$$ .

Make an affordable low deck in iron and you will sell them . The B1 setup is based on a low deck block , you have to run intake spacers to put them on an RB block ...




Maybe to the stock type builds. But to people who like 4.5 stroke cranks, and 4.5 inch bores, with plenty long rods (above 7") its not doable, well not "as" easy with a low deck block.

I would say that most people buying a aluminum block and racing are wanting large bores and large strokes. Cause generally speaking it doesn't add much if any to the build costs now days.
IMO
Not very many people want to give $4K for a cast iron block, that has to hurt sales. When you can pick up a phone and order a Indy Block maxx block with Low deck option for just a few more hundred dollars more.
Or buy a cast iron World block for $1500 less..Just my opinion, and this is exactly what I did in both cases.


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Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: Bob_Coomer] #295010
04/23/09 09:03 AM
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What kind of power were you looking for when you bought your iron block?

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: RodStRace] #295011
04/23/09 09:06 AM
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If the chineese could'nt do it for $1,500 how in the heck can an American??

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: RodStRace] #295012
04/23/09 11:53 AM
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We do like the dual bellhousing concept, and it should'nt be a hard thing to incorporate, we were going to cast them all with that option orignally, but we were thinking of casting a mopar bellhousing to fit a powerglide trans, would everyone rather have the bolt pattern on the block or a new bellhousing?

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: BIG BEAR] #295013
04/23/09 03:46 PM
04/23/09 03:46 PM
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Quote:

If the chineese could'nt do it for $1,500 how in the heck can an American??




no kidding these people dreaming of 1500 blocks are doing just that .... DREAMING ...

Actually I think the chinese could , it was the initial outlay of cash and the number of blocks that had to be made to get that number is what killed the product in the current state of the economy ???

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: BIG BEAR] #295014
04/23/09 03:49 PM
04/23/09 03:49 PM
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Quote:

We do like the dual bellhousing concept, and it should'nt be a hard thing to incorporate, we were going to cast them all with that option orignally, but we were thinking of casting a mopar bellhousing to fit a powerglide trans, would everyone rather have the bolt pattern on the block or a new bellhousing?




Doesn't JW already make that , the ultrabell ?

Dual bolt patterns for those wanting to run a stock case and sheilds and blankets ???

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: JohnRR] #295015
04/23/09 05:21 PM
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I could see that being pretty close to reality even in the states,
if the numbers were there, it would drive down the cost substantially, still I dont believe it could have been $1,500 even in china, but thats the ticket,to get the price down you need to sell a whole bunch of them no matter if its an engine block or any other type of casting.

I did'nt know that there was a bellhousing like that on the market, thats good to know.

Post deleted by Defbob [Re: JohnRR] #295016
04/23/09 05:22 PM
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Re: Iron or Aluminum? #295017
04/23/09 05:36 PM
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OK, thanks for the input.That should'nt be TO BIG of
a thing to change on the next batch, it will just take a little more time and money, and we know ALL ABOUT TIME and MONEY!

Post deleted by Defbob #295018
04/23/09 05:53 PM
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Re: Iron or Aluminum? #295019
04/23/09 06:07 PM
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that makes sense, I could see it as a bit of a pain as well, so the bellhousings out there now such as the JW require an adapter plate?

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: BIG BEAR] #295020
04/23/09 06:59 PM
04/23/09 06:59 PM
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Make it a LOW DECK..But try to make it easier to accept a 4.500 crank. Then you could get the 572" or larger in a low deck.
I know it has been done, but it is very time consuming.
The bores just need to go a little deeper, then the piston won't come out of the bottom.

That's your market..

As said, there are no LOW DECK after market blocks..


Chris..

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: Chris'sBarracuda] #295021
04/23/09 07:11 PM
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Does the cam to to be raised or is the stock location better, and would there be a need for a spread bore?

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: BIG BEAR] #295022
04/23/09 07:17 PM
04/23/09 07:17 PM
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As soon as you raise the cam or spread the bores you kill the volume which kills the price.

$1500 probably isn't possible but as I've pointed out before, Ford sells the A460 block for $2100. The Ford SB blocks are $1800. So a Mopar block needs to be competitive in pricing or else people will switch. Shouldn't be a tough problem for a person to do a little market research and figure out what the price/volume curve is.

Re: Iron or Aluminum? [Re: BIG BEAR] #295023
04/23/09 07:21 PM
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A 4.500 crank fits in a tall deck with stock cam location, and low decks are the same, as far as that is concerned.
If a larger bore spacing is easy to incorporate and do either, then you have the best of both worlds.
A 4.500 x 4.600bore is 598"...

Now that would be NICE in a low deck with some TS heads..
I would bet that it would be 1300hp..


Also, just make head spacers for taller combos..

Chris..

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