Moparts

Iron or Aluminum?

Posted By: BIG BEAR

Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 02:53 PM

Whats better? Iron or Aluminum? Hemi or Wedge?
Which one is in higher demand?
Is there any demand???
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 03:09 PM

What are you talking about? CHIP
Posted By: ZIPPY

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 03:18 PM

What was the question again?
Posted By: LoneMopar

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 03:31 PM

Iron = 6 cents/lb
Aluminum = 50 cents/lb

I choose aluminum.
Posted By: AndyF

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 04:30 PM

I think that Big Bear is actually Marty from Koleno Performance and he is asking us if we want cast iron or aluminum blocks. He also wants to know of we prefer Hemi or wedge blocks and he would like to know why demand for the new blocks is so low.

At least that is what I read into the message.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 04:34 PM

What I'm saying is there was a huge shortage of iron blocks some years ago, now you can get them. There have been more aluminum choices in the past and now there are a few more. So I was just wondering if there was still a demand for either one and if so wich one?
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 04:39 PM

yeah, thats what we are asking, it takes alot of time, money , effort, ect as I'm sure you all know to get the stuff into production but its even harder if you dont know what to make. thats just my
Posted By: AndyF

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 04:42 PM

Well it is an interesting question. My guess is that demand depends on the price. I paid about $2500 for my cast iron World block. That is more money than a stock block with a girdle and partial fill but not a lot more. If the aftermarket cast iron blocks were down around $2000 then they would sell even better. If they were in the $1500 range like the Chevy and Ford blocks then the demand would pick up even more.

Last time I talked to the guys at Best Machine they said they were putting all of the serious guys into aluminum blocks. The AL blocks cost a little more up front but they solve a lot of issues for the serious race guy as long as the block is legal in their class. If Barton can keep selling AL blocks for $3500 then I'd think that demand would pick up a bit. I probably would've gone with an AL block at that price. In fact, if I could get an AL block at a good price I'd probably go ahead and use it for my next project motor.
Posted By: LoneMopar

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 04:42 PM

We are talking engine blocks? I still choose aluminum.

Ray Barton is selling truckloads of World aluminum blocks for $3500. How much are the Koleno blocks?
Posted By: RemCharger

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 04:57 PM

From what I understand the new cast blocks are VERY HEAVY and still hard to repair. If I had the money I would not waste it on cast iron. I like the idea of a block that is good for years to come.
Posted By: Blucuda413

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 04:58 PM

If aluminum blocks were cheap enough and good quality you could probably corner the new block market!!!!! Both Hemi and Wedge!!!!
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 04:59 PM

Thanks for your input Andy, $3,500 for a AL mopar big block is an awesome price no doubt about it.
One thing about the $1,500 iron block that I could never seem to understand(although priced nicely)is the fact that some people would have more invested in their crankshaft.
A $1,500 crank + a $1,500 block =
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 05:06 PM

Thats true they are heavy no matter where you buy it from(it keeps the front end down lol)But as far as repair, funny you should mention it,
I just talked to Scott about an iron block that they
windowed, he patched her up and believe it or not it
makes more power now.
Posted By: RemCharger

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 05:09 PM

Quote:

Thanks for your input Andy, $3,500 for a AL mopar big block is an awesome price no doubt about it.
One thing about the $1,500 iron block that I could never seem to understand(although priced nicely)is the fact that some people would have more invested in their crankshaft.
A $1,500 crank + a $1,500 block =


To much markup in the cranks? Since this is a recession, maybe the prices need to come down, and business will pick up nicely in volume...
Posted By: AndyF

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 05:11 PM

Well it is a matter of economics for most engine builders. Ford Peformance sells A460 blocks for $2100 and Boss 302 blocks for $1800. Dart has blocks in the same range and so does World.

I know that Mopar guys are used to paying more for their parts but still, at some point people just toss in the towel and switch.

I'm currently investigating building a Boss 429 motor. Jon Kaase is building new heads and Ford has the block. I can build a Boss 429 for roughly the same (maybe less) than a 426 Hemi. The 426 Hemi is cool but to me the Boss 429 is even cooler. I wouldn't even bother thinking about building a Boss 429 if the price was double but when it is in the same range it starts to get interesting.
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 05:23 PM

Quote:

Thanks for your input Andy, $3,500 for a AL mopar big block is an awesome price no doubt about it.
One thing about the $1,500 iron block that I could never seem to understand(although priced nicely)is the fact that some people would have more invested in their crankshaft.
A $1,500 crank + a $1,500 block =




the buyer for $1500 blocks will be buying $599 dollar cranks and $369 rods .
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 05:28 PM

well ok still
Posted By: Anonymous

Post deleted by Defbob - 04/21/09 05:36 PM

Posted By: RemCharger

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 05:42 PM

Quote:

an unskirted block ala chevy with splayed main bolts would offer better oil control in the pan area


Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 06:12 PM

are the splayed caps as good as the cross bolted though?
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 06:19 PM

The wedge will be in higher demand since there are a lot less people running hemis. Although, it'd be nice to have another hemi block on the market.

The iron block would probably sell better due to the lower cost. Even though the aluminum block is better down the road as far as fixing a window or resleeving, most people just base their decision on initial cost.

I went w/ an aluminum KB block b/c it's likely the last block I'll have to buy. If it gets worn out, I can resleeve it. If it blows up, I can have it repaired. Not to mention the machine work was quality and I did not need to massage much at all to use it right out the box.
I bought mine before the World blocks were available. I heard so many horror stories about the old MP mega blocks machining that wound up costing as much as a KB block to make them useable. CHIP
Posted By: 540dust

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 06:46 PM

All else the same Al blocks make less HP for whatever reasons, enough of a difference that the weight alone will not compensate for the difference. Given the above I would always pic the AL block anyway due to other advantages.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:02 PM

would you say that the biggest problem with the iron
blocks would be the repairablity?
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:09 PM

I would choose AL because of the ability to repair. Even at the higher initial cost sometimes they may be the last block you will ever need. Through a rod through a iron block and it scrap metal.

What i'll be looking at is a Alum or Iron block with a 4.840BS option in the future.
Posted By: HardcoreB

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:10 PM

There may be a market yet for a cheap, iron, unskirted(less iron and lighter), dowled 2-bolt main (9/16" stud), low-deck big-block, 4.56" bore (cast them larger), even with a GM bellhousing. Simplify the casting e.g. no fuel pump boss, or internal oil pick-up, etc... Put the feelers out in a thread like this. Or read thru the 440Source proposed block thread archieved in here. If the cost were low enough I'd guess you'll win-over the alloy block people 'cause it ain't cheap to properly repair/resleeve an aluminium block.
Posted By: Anonymous

Post deleted by Defbob - 04/21/09 07:14 PM

Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:14 PM

nice
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:17 PM

why not just use a chevy block, fill in the head bold holes and drill and tap new ones, and use a mopar head? Or just get an Arias
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:19 PM

the repaired block that Scott fixed is scheduled this weekend so hopefully they will get some good runs.
Posted By: HardcoreB

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:24 PM

Quote:

why not just use a chevy block, fill in the head bold holes and drill and tap new ones, and use a mopar head?




deckheight, bore spacing, rocker oiling, lifter positioning. etc...I don't understand. Are you speaking as a MOPAR purist? Does your racecar have to have an 8 3/4 and a 727?
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:29 PM

Im speaking as a manufacturer, I'll make what will sell, but I dont think that there is enough money to justify the cause, or could I be wrong?
Posted By: Anonymous

Post deleted by Defbob - 04/21/09 07:30 PM

Posted By: HardcoreB

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:31 PM

Quote:

cheap, iron, unskirted(less iron and lighter), dowled 2-bolt main (9/16" stud), low-deck big-block, 4.56" bore (cast them larger), even with a GM bellhousing. Simplify the casting e.g. no fuel pump boss, or internal oil pick-up, etc... cheap




Limited market for larger B/S unique combinations...However, there are plentiful supplies of top-ends that can push 800-1000HP especially with a power adder. Something these features should tolerate.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:34 PM

what do you think about a 4.84 bs block, would people be after it?
Posted By: HardcoreB

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:35 PM

Not you Fred, was talking to BB...much love coming from me to you. It almost sounded like a fecesious response to my idea of intergrading a couple of better features into a proposed item.
Posted By: RemCharger

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:41 PM

Quote:

Im speaking as a manufacturer, I'll make what will sell, but I dont think that there is enough money to justify the cause, or could I be wrong?


Just make an aluminum big block dodge for 1500 bucks and I guarantee you'll be laughing all the way to the bank $$ $$ $$
Posted By: HardcoreB

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:42 PM

Quote:

what do you think about a 4.84 bs block, would people be after it?




IMO you already market a HIGH-END block with good quality. How is that one selling for you? Even the B1/PSO and Predator heads are currently built around a 4.8" B/S. A larger B/S block is still a smaller market IMO and this is not the time (economically speaking) to build it assuming others will manufacter/engineer parts compatible. It's been nice chatting but, I gotta go...
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:42 PM

sorry to come aross that way, I'm just saying I dont think it would be a profitable venture, but as I sayed I could most certainly be wrong.
Posted By: Anonymous

Post deleted by Defbob - 04/21/09 07:43 PM

Posted By: HardcoreB

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:47 PM

"read thru the 440Source proposed block thread archieved in here"

The response for a cheap block was overwhelming.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:48 PM

If I could sell it for that much and still be able to keep the lights on in the shop I would
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 07:51 PM

nice castings, is it a pain to find sleeves to fit?
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 08:05 PM

Quote:

what do you think about a 4.84 bs block, would people be after it?




I think there would be a market if a few more heads went to the 4.840BS.

Indy has thier 600-13's at that BS i dont see why they woudlnt start casting their "new" Pred heads that BS'ing.

My new engine is a 4.840 BS because i needed to get as close to 650ci as i could. I'm running the 4.840BS B1-TS heads but as technology changes i would love to see a set of pred heads on there if they would go to a larger BS'ing.

I think the market for a 4.840BS (or 5inch) engine is about the same as any mopar guy going out there trying to "WIN" agaisnt the GM/Ford Boys.
Posted By: RemCharger

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 08:33 PM

Hey Diablo, Do you have a 66 Hemi Charger by chance??
Posted By: AndyF

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 09:06 PM

Big Bear, if you're looking for business advice then I'd have to say that you need to make a choice, low end or high end. You aren't going to sell very many blocks with raised cams, 4.84 bore space, wide oil pan rails, etc so if you go that way then the price needs to go way up.

If you want to move a bunch of blocks then you most likely need to get the price down to the $2000 range so you can compete against the stock block option. Volume is your friend, best bet is to hook up with some engine builders who are selling crate engines so you have a steady customer base. Make a deal with Mancini or Hughes or someone like that to move blocks for you.

If you already have the tooling on hand and you have the equipment necessary to make the blocks then you're most of the way there. Why not talk to Brandon about supplying him with blocks? If you already have the tooling in place then that would save him a huge investment. He has a good distribution system already in place so go ahead and leverage it.

Are you tooled up to produce a low deck cast iron block? Nobody is making those at the moment so that might be your niche to own. World doesn't seem to have any plans to do a low deck and Indy is only focused on aluminum blocks. I'm sure there is a good sized market out there for a HD low deck, especially if the price is right and the block has some good features. Chevy bellhousing bolt pattern, bushed lifter bores, etc.
Posted By: The Shadow

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/21/09 09:38 PM

Quote:

Big Bear, if you're looking for business advice then I'd have to say that you need to make a choice, low end or high end. You aren't going to sell very many blocks with raised cams, 4.84 bore space, wide oil pan rails, etc so if you go that way then the price needs to go way up.

If you want to move a bunch of blocks then you most likely need to get the price down to the $2000 range so you can compete against the stock block option. Volume is your friend, best bet is to hook up with some engine builders who are selling crate engines so you have a steady customer base. Make a deal with Mancini or Hughes or someone like that to move blocks for you.

If you already have the tooling on hand and you have the equipment necessary to make the blocks then you're most of the way there. Why not talk to Brandon about supplying him with blocks? If you already have the tooling in place then that would save him a huge investment. He has a good distribution system already in place so go ahead and leverage it.

Are you tooled up to produce a low deck cast iron block? Nobody is making those at the moment so that might be your niche to own. World doesn't seem to have any plans to do a low deck and Indy is only focused on aluminum blocks. I'm sure there is a good sized market out there for a HD low deck, especially if the price is right and the block has some good features. Chevy bellhousing bolt pattern, bushed lifter bores, etc.



100%
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 11:47 AM

Hughes is one of our distributors now, we have thought about doing a low deck block due to a large response, and from our end it would be easier to cast than the proposed chevy style block, mainly because we could use some of our existing tooling to
make the low deck and for the other style block we would need to create a whole new set of tooling.
Posted By: Anonymous

Post deleted by Defbob - 04/22/09 12:44 PM

Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 01:25 PM

so would you say that the market for the stock deck hight block is just not there(no matter what manufacturer)?
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 01:44 PM

I don’t think there is a real market for a stock height block. Unless the price is really low. If not, anyone making these street strip engines will just use a good stock block and girdle it.

The people who want to build these 800-1100hp engines have the money to buy one of the AL (or iron) blocks out there already.

For the people who want to start making 1200+++ hp then i think having the option of 4.840BS or 5 inch blocks would be interesting because there's just nothing really out there for options for us.

How bought a Billet block for a reasonable price???
Then all that really needs to be done to change options on the block is the computer program.

Oh and sorry no i don't own a 66 Hemi charger, got a 70 convertible challenger (being restored), 73 challenger (daily driver) and then the pulling truck (Diablo)
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 01:54 PM

yeah your right why not just use a stock block and girdle it, I dont know a whole lot about the billet blocks other than it takes a boatload of time to machine one, so I dont see one going much cheaper than whats already out there. Our blocks are sold to engine builders not to individuals.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 02:12 PM

I suppose one of the biggest problems with using a stock block would be an unforseen hairline crack that opened up at a higher hp/torque rate or something like that, and of course with the stock block you dont have the goodies such as all mains cross bolted,true priority
oiling, webbing across the valley, screw in freeze plugs,hemi mounts, machined by roush ect.
Posted By: unknown

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 02:19 PM

I would like to see a Hemi style block, aluminum for sure, 4.90 bore centers, mopar/chevy bellhousing , talldeck, raised cam, screw in style freeze plugs ,no oil pickup tube boss,head bolt pattern for the Mopar performace pro-stock 4.90 bs heads. Money waiting in hand, make it.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 02:36 PM

no prob $500,000 please!
although would it need a water jacket?
Posted By: unknown

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 02:51 PM

Quote:

no prob $500,000 please!
although would it need a water jacket?


Yes it would need a water jacket,Im pretty sure the pro-stock heads need lots of water.But think about it how many stock style blocks do we need on the market? Lets take it to the next level.
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 02:52 PM

Hmmm since it is the CNC machine doing most the work with a billet block im sure there is a way to get the price down to 5000-7000$ all done ready to go.

Different bolt patterns, BS'ings, Cam hieght, and all the pretty stuf are just at a computer program.

Just an idea. But there would be no water, but for the guys running the bigger BS's are we really wanting water in the block?
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 02:56 PM

Quote:

Quote:

no prob $500,000 please!
although would it need a water jacket?


Yes it would need a water jacket,Im pretty sure the pro-stock heads need lots of water.But think about it how many stock style blocks do we need on the market? Lets take it to the next level.




Why aren't they just running water through the heads?? on alchy shouldn't that be enough to keep everything cool?
Posted By: unknown

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:01 PM

Quote:

Hmmm since it is the CNC machine doing most the work with a billet block im sure there is a way to get the price down to 5000-7000$ all done ready to go.

Different bolt patterns, BS'ings, Cam hieght, and all the pretty stuf are just at a computer program.

Just an idea. But there would be no water, but for the guys running the bigger BS's are we really wanting water in the block?


I know I would pay 5000.00 - 7000.00 for that block,as far as the water in the block, maybe just water in the heads would be ok
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:05 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Hmmm since it is the CNC machine doing most the work with a billet block im sure there is a way to get the price down to 5000-7000$ all done ready to go.

Different bolt patterns, BS'ings, Cam hieght, and all the pretty stuf are just at a computer program.

Just an idea. But there would be no water, but for the guys running the bigger BS's are we really wanting water in the block?


I know I would pay 5000.00 - 7000.00 for that block,as far as the water in the block, maybe just water in the heads would be ok




i think it would be alright as long as your not running gas.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:19 PM

the billet blocks are going for more than $7,000?
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:21 PM

what kind of power are you looking for to need a billet block?
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:25 PM

When i asked about a billit block at LSM it was around 7000-9000$

You save in wieght but get the strength of iron. Don't have to worry as much about the main walls cracking (or anythng cracking)

I'n truck pulling most use iron blocks cause they do make more power but the billet will match the strength (i think)

For truck pulling the hp range is 1200-1500hp N/A in 650ci engines.

I just like the idea of all the options you can have with a Billet set up
Posted By: unknown

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:34 PM

Quote:

what kind of power are you looking for to need a billet block?


I would not need a billet block , 375-T6 aluminum would be just fine. Oh yea 60mm cam bearings and 250 raised cam please. Im thinking 1300 - 1400 hp.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:38 PM

If you need that kind of power and that strenght why
not use our iron block, I know its heavy, but it's less than half the cost?
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:43 PM

Im not familiar with 375 aluminum, but the oversize cam and raised location are doable. Some of our(in stock)iron blocks have the roller cam option.At their current location you can fit a 4.5+ stroke no problem.sorry 4.75+
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:43 PM

Does you're iron block have the 4.840BS option? Cause thats what i really need, oh with raised cam, mains priority oiling, and a 55 or 66mm cam would be nice

Also need the ability to put my 5inch stroke crank in her
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:46 PM

The casting can except a 4.84 bs but all the ones we have now in stock are standard bs
Posted By: unknown

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:51 PM

Quote:

If you need that kind of power and that strenght why
not use our iron block, I know its heavy, but it's less than half the cost?


I did talk to you guys at Norwalk 2 years ago and looked at your blocks you had on display, very nice stuff. But I think I would come up short on HP even with the best heads on the market with 4.80 bore center blocks and heads. With the mopar pro-stock heads 1300 - 1400 HP should not be a problem.
Posted By: unknown

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:57 PM

Quote:

Im not familiar with 375 aluminum, but the oversize cam and raised location are doable. Some of our(in stock)iron blocks have the roller cam option.At their current location you can fit a 4.5+ stroke no problem.sorry 4.75+


Sorry, 357-T6
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 03:58 PM

The Koffels have just repaired one of our blocks, using thier heads(im not sure wich ones, but I know its not the 4.84 bs ones)and its right in that hp range.The mule engine we had on display made around 1,050 hp, a little less than your looking for but it is only 593ci and has the B1 origials on it.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 04:02 PM

the engine that Koffels just rebuilt was making that kind of horse on motor but I believe they are going to throw some juice at it.
Posted By: unknown

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 04:09 PM

Quote:

the engine that Koffels just rebuilt was making that kind of horse on motor but I believe they are going to throw some juice at it.


Not to say it cant be done, but man o man 1300-1400 HP NA race gas with 4.80 bore centers. Im not sure the B1-TS heads with 4.80 BS could support those numbers.
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 04:10 PM

I know were aiming for 1200-1250hp with our 636ci with B1-TS heads alchy injected (1300 should be doable with some EXTRA nice stuff)
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 04:33 PM

Thats what they tell me the numbers are and I know for a fact its our block and it isnt a 4.84 bs because we have'nt machined any yet.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 04:34 PM

should'nt be a problem at all!
Posted By: unknown

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 05:09 PM

Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 06:42 PM

I think they are racing with that very engine this weekend
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 07:19 PM

HemiFred do you have this combo?
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 08:41 PM

Quote:

an unskirted block ala chevy with splayed main bolts would offer better oil control in the pan area




Then they will have to make a pan and timing cover for it also ???
Posted By: thecarfarmer

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 09:23 PM

Quote:

...

the buyer for $1500 blocks will be buying $599 dollar cranks and $369 rods .




That's probably true. But, there are guys who sell a lot of $899 heads, $599 dollar cranks, and $369 rods.

And, after spending $$$ on having a block bored/decked/line honed for a buildup, it kinda' frosts me to think that by changing (after machining the block... ) to better heads and roller cam, I should have stepped up to a short fill in the jackets, aluminum caps, and a girdle so I could go even farther yet.

Yeah, I'd be in the market for a good $1500 block if I were starting over.

Oh, BTW, if the OP wants to get down with the low-budget block, I'd have cared less if it had internal oil pickup (bet most guys buying the block wouldn't use it); would expect a lot of guys would like a second set of holes drilled in the bellhousing flange. How many guys run glides - quite a few.



-Bill
Posted By: Anonymous

Post deleted by Defbob - 04/22/09 09:41 PM

Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 09:49 PM

thats one of the hardest things, to incorporate something or take away something on the block and still be able to please everyone.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 10:22 PM

sweet
Posted By: RodStRace

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/22/09 10:45 PM

I'd fall into the 1500 block category, so this is all low dollar opinion.
Do a low deck in aluminum, with a strong bottom end with meat for aftermarket main designs (not delivered), leave the pickup boss and hole out, just partially drill the fuel pump boss (no center hole or tapping) so the do it yourself guy could do the rest if needed, make the outside look as stock as possible (think stealth not e-brock), make it able to handle stroker assemblys, aftermarket heads, stock cover and oil pan rails, only external change I'd like is the screw in core plugs. Keep the after sale machine work to a minimum, so savings up front isn't gobbled up before assembly. That would pry another 500 out of my pocket pretty easy, making it a 2000-2500 block.
I don't want yet another high dollar block that the machine shop has to work on for another couple weeks, or one that I have to stand in line behind the big boys, waiting my turn or even worse, have them hand-select the best and I get the cast-offs.
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 03:22 AM

Quote:

so would you say that the market for the stock deck hight block is just not there(no matter what manufacturer)?




I'm lost on this , you do realize mopar made 2 deck height blocks ??? 10.725 raised deck , whic is what the aftermarket mostly caters to , and the 9.980 low deck which you can get , but only in alum $$$ .

Make an affordable low deck in iron and you will sell them . The B1 setup is based on a low deck block , you have to run intake spacers to put them on an RB block ...
Posted By: Bob_Coomer

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 04:40 AM

Quote:

Quote:

so would you say that the market for the stock deck hight block is just not there(no matter what manufacturer)?




I'm lost on this , you do realize mopar made 2 deck height blocks ??? 10.725 raised deck , which is what the aftermarket mostly caters to , and the 9.980 low deck which you can get , but only in alum $$$ .

Make an affordable low deck in iron and you will sell them . The B1 setup is based on a low deck block , you have to run intake spacers to put them on an RB block ...




Maybe to the stock type builds. But to people who like 4.5 stroke cranks, and 4.5 inch bores, with plenty long rods (above 7") its not doable, well not "as" easy with a low deck block.

I would say that most people buying a aluminum block and racing are wanting large bores and large strokes. Cause generally speaking it doesn't add much if any to the build costs now days.
IMO
Not very many people want to give $4K for a cast iron block, that has to hurt sales. When you can pick up a phone and order a Indy Block maxx block with Low deck option for just a few more hundred dollars more.
Or buy a cast iron World block for $1500 less..Just my opinion, and this is exactly what I did in both cases.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 01:03 PM

What kind of power were you looking for when you bought your iron block?
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 01:06 PM

If the chineese could'nt do it for $1,500 how in the heck can an American??
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 03:53 PM

We do like the dual bellhousing concept, and it should'nt be a hard thing to incorporate, we were going to cast them all with that option orignally, but we were thinking of casting a mopar bellhousing to fit a powerglide trans, would everyone rather have the bolt pattern on the block or a new bellhousing?
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 07:46 PM

Quote:

If the chineese could'nt do it for $1,500 how in the heck can an American??




no kidding these people dreaming of 1500 blocks are doing just that .... DREAMING ...

Actually I think the chinese could , it was the initial outlay of cash and the number of blocks that had to be made to get that number is what killed the product in the current state of the economy ???
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 07:49 PM

Quote:

We do like the dual bellhousing concept, and it should'nt be a hard thing to incorporate, we were going to cast them all with that option orignally, but we were thinking of casting a mopar bellhousing to fit a powerglide trans, would everyone rather have the bolt pattern on the block or a new bellhousing?




Doesn't JW already make that , the ultrabell ?

Dual bolt patterns for those wanting to run a stock case and sheilds and blankets ???
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 09:21 PM

I could see that being pretty close to reality even in the states,
if the numbers were there, it would drive down the cost substantially, still I dont believe it could have been $1,500 even in china, but thats the ticket,to get the price down you need to sell a whole bunch of them no matter if its an engine block or any other type of casting.

I did'nt know that there was a bellhousing like that on the market, thats good to know.
Posted By: Anonymous

Post deleted by Defbob - 04/23/09 09:22 PM

Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 09:36 PM

OK, thanks for the input.That should'nt be TO BIG of
a thing to change on the next batch, it will just take a little more time and money, and we know ALL ABOUT TIME and MONEY!
Posted By: Anonymous

Post deleted by Defbob - 04/23/09 09:53 PM

Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 10:07 PM

that makes sense, I could see it as a bit of a pain as well, so the bellhousings out there now such as the JW require an adapter plate?
Posted By: Chris'sBarracuda

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 10:59 PM

Make it a LOW DECK..But try to make it easier to accept a 4.500 crank. Then you could get the 572" or larger in a low deck.
I know it has been done, but it is very time consuming.
The bores just need to go a little deeper, then the piston won't come out of the bottom.

That's your market..

As said, there are no LOW DECK after market blocks..


Chris..
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 11:11 PM

Does the cam to to be raised or is the stock location better, and would there be a need for a spread bore?
Posted By: AndyF

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 11:17 PM

As soon as you raise the cam or spread the bores you kill the volume which kills the price.

$1500 probably isn't possible but as I've pointed out before, Ford sells the A460 block for $2100. The Ford SB blocks are $1800. So a Mopar block needs to be competitive in pricing or else people will switch. Shouldn't be a tough problem for a person to do a little market research and figure out what the price/volume curve is.
Posted By: Chris'sBarracuda

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 11:21 PM

A 4.500 crank fits in a tall deck with stock cam location, and low decks are the same, as far as that is concerned.
If a larger bore spacing is easy to incorporate and do either, then you have the best of both worlds.
A 4.500 x 4.600bore is 598"...

Now that would be NICE in a low deck with some TS heads..
I would bet that it would be 1300hp..


Also, just make head spacers for taller combos..

Chris..
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 11:23 PM

Are cast main caps good enough, thats one thing I know that right off the bat will drop the price tag a little bit.
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/23/09 11:57 PM

Once again we are starting a HP game once again and the block will need all the special add ons that were mentioned in the RB style block from before.

For the people who want to make the big hp numbers will probably have the $$$ to pay 4-5-6000 for a REALLY good block with all the bells and whistles.

Lots of guys buying blocks went with a KB block over indy just because of the quality and design was there even though they were paying more

I think any block with the option of different Bore spacings is something that everybody would like
Posted By: Chris'sBarracuda

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 12:35 AM

Quote:

Once again we are starting a HP game once again and the block will need all the special add ons that were mentioned in the RB style block from before.

For the people who want to make the big hp numbers will probably have the $$$ to pay 4-5-6000 for a REALLY good block with all the bells and whistles.

Lots of guys buying blocks went with a KB block over indy just because of the quality and design was there even though they were paying more

I think any block with the option of different Bore spacings is something that everybody would like






Isn't that what it this is all about? HP..

If you want average hp, just use a stock block..
If you are going aftermarket block, then you want it to be upgradeable, hp wise..right??

There are MANY tall deck options for aftermarket blocks.
The only low deck option for aftermarket block is Indy Aluminum.. Since KB is out of business.
If you want to sell product, go where there will be the most demand, and least competition..


Chris..
Posted By: HotRodDave

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 01:32 AM

The only nich needing filling in the BB world is a cheapy block, either iron or aluminum. With the availability of CNC victor heads it is very easy to make too much hp for a stock block, even CNC RPM heads are pushing the limits of a 30-40 year old stock block. The other big advantage of a cheap block is if it is machined ready to go, by the time you bore, hone, square deck, line hone or line bore for better caps, bush lifter bores just to get them right... you can spend $1500 easy, just spend a couple hundred more and get a cross bolted block ready to go would sell like stink.

Another big hole in the market is there is no choice for a small block aluminum block. Make it no frills just like the 3 or 4 aluminum prototypes mopar made a few years ago, just make it thicker in the critical areas and start rakeing in the $$$. There would be no compitition from world, mopar, dart.. any one, there is NO other aluminum small block out there unless you want exotic everything. A half way decent set of W2s or CNC eddys will shread a stock block. Even if you made a cheapy iron block it would sell a ton, mopar is the only competitor there and there availability is spotty and there machining even worse. With all the guys building 4 inch stroke stuff it is no where close to it's potential with a stock block filled and girdled and splayed bolted and all. Make it ready to assemble and 4 bolt ductile caps and it will be a great seller.
Posted By: dthemi

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 01:42 AM

Quote:

an unskirted block ala chevy with splayed main bolts would offer better oil control in the pan area




Aluminum and CG PPPLLLEEEAASE
Posted By: Chris'sBarracuda

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 03:41 AM

Quote:

The only nich needing filling in the BB world is a cheapy block, either iron or aluminum. With the availability of CNC victor heads it is very easy to make too much hp for a stock block, even CNC RPM heads are pushing the limits of a 30-40 year old stock block.




How do you get 900+ hp out of Edelbrock heads?

Gecker and Koffel with B1's, have been making that easy with stock blocks for years and years now..
Sure, they eventually fail, but after thousands of runs..If done right.

You won't get a quality american made block for $1500.00..It's just not possible..


Chris..
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 04:08 AM



Stock block can take alot if done right!! Ya they will break in time but everything does. filled, Girdle, Alum caps, alum rods, keep it all light and a stock block will go along ways!
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 11:54 AM

Quote:

Quote:

Once again we are starting a HP game once again and the block will need all the special add ons that were mentioned in the RB style block from before.

For the people who want to make the big hp numbers will probably have the $$$ to pay 4-5-6000 for a REALLY good block with all the bells and whistles.

Lots of guys buying blocks went with a KB block over indy just because of the quality and design was there even though they were paying more

I think any block with the option of different Bore spacings is something that everybody would like






Isn't that what it this is all about? HP..

If you want average hp, just use a stock block..
If you are going aftermarket block, then you want it to be upgradeable, hp wise..right??

There are MANY tall deck options for aftermarket blocks.
The only low deck option for aftermarket block is Indy Aluminum.. Since KB is out of business.
If you want to sell product, go where there will be the most demand, and least competition..


Chris..







Thats exactly right guys, its all about cost vs hp
I cant see anyone selling a mopar block cheaper than mopar
Posted By: JohnRR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 01:11 PM

Quote:

Are cast main caps good enough, thats one thing I know that right off the bat will drop the price tag a little bit.




I think you would need ductile at a minimum , for an alum block probably billet steel ?


I think you need to forget the $1500 number being thrown around , the guy that bragged that up was DREAMING when he threw that number out , the only reason I saw it was because the market segment he caters too was crying for that price level , that segment would be fine with stock blocks .
Posted By: Diablo

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 02:07 PM

I think creating a block that will cater to the mid to high end racer is what will sell and will have the biggest market. Buy that i mean engines that will put out 1000+++++hp
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 02:27 PM

Quote:

I think creating a block that will cater to the mid to high end racer is what will sell and will have the biggest market. Buy that i mean engines that will put out 1000+++++hp




Thats what I believe we have with our kp440 RB
Posted By: HardcoreB

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 02:42 PM

Quote:



Thats what I believe we have with our kp440 RB




I agree BB. That's why I see the market for a low-cost block...
Posted By: HardcoreB

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 03:18 PM

...There are plenty of reinforced stock and early model MP MEGAblocks than have split cylinder walls. Making the mains survive is only half the battle. A simple cast ductile iron cap, (what about a high-grade PM?) doweled (maybe only one) USING 9/16" fasteners with good registering would work at these lower power levels 800-1100 HP and shouldn't be inferior in any way to the existing World block IMO. Any cross bolting, splaying, adding addl. fasteners, etc... add to cost and are not nec. IMO. Again if there were a way to utilize a BBC-style oil pan (unskirted block) it would keep YOUR costs down while not compromising demand. This feature may actually improve demand. LOW-deck!!!
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 03:39 PM

Quote:

...There are plenty of reinforced stock and early model MP MEGAblocks than have split cylinder walls. Making the mains survive is only half the battle. A simple cast ductile iron cap, (what about a high-grade PM?) doweled (maybe only one) USING 9/16" fasteners with good registering would work at these lower power levels 800-1100 HP and shouldn't be inferior in any way to the existing World block IMO. Any cross bolting, splaying, adding addl. fasteners, etc... add to cost and are not nec. IMO. Again if there were a way to utilize a BBC-style oil pan (unskirted block) it would keep YOUR costs down while not compromising demand. This feature may actually improve demand. LOW-deck!!!




The problem with doing the unskirted idea is that not only would we have to change the whole intire pattern to incorporate it, we would also need to create a new program, and not to mention burn though the scrap to perfect it. It seems to be a great idea and people seem to like it but the cost to make it would be outragous.If we did a low deck block and still kept the skirt,the patterns would definatly need to be altered, but it would be much eaiser to accomplish, still not an easy task by any stretch of the imagination.
Posted By: BIG BEAR

Re: Iron or Aluminum? - 04/24/09 04:08 PM

Quote:

Quote:

an unskirted block ala chevy with splayed main bolts would offer better oil control in the pan area




Aluminum and CG PPPLLLEEEAASE





Everyone is saying the price for regular grey iron blocks is to much, they most certainly wont go for the much more expensive compacted graphite.I wonder how those are selling
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