Low oil pressure after oil filter change:

My 340 had about three-four hours of cruising time after the cam break in, so it was time to dump the break in oil and filter. I changed them both (was a Napa Gold filter/Driven Break In oil to another Napa Gold filter/Driven 10-W30 High Zinc) and went on a test drive. The oil pressure was fine before leaving the garage (22’ish at warm idle and 50’ish at cruise) but after a few WOT downshifts, I noticed that the oil pressure at cruise was down to 25’ish. So, I drove it back to the garage while listening and being careful, but I did not hear any extra noises (solid cam) coming from the engine.

Once the engine cooled off the next day, I checked out the wires on the Holley fuel pump safety switch and found a loose wire. So, I snugged it back up and thought that I found the problem. I then started the car back up to find that the oil pressure was at 25’ish again at high idle which is low. I was waiting on the engine to warm up and checking for leaks (just replaced the speedo cable seal) and then I was under the hood, and I noticed my fuel pressure gauge was starting to jump around (this pressure is usually solid). After a few seconds of watching it, it was dropping fast, and I was waiting on the engine to die. Once the engine died, I shut off the ignition and started thinking about what is now causing the low oil pressure and the low fuel pressure? I have a manual prime button for the electric fuel pump, so I pressed it for a few seconds and my fuel bowls filled up like normal. So, the fuel pump works while using the manual push button, but it is not working now while the engine is running.

I decided to replace the Holley safety switch since it drives the fuel pump. While doing so, I pulled the pipe/adapter setup that I have on the back of the engine that mounts the oil pressure sensor and this safety switch. I cleaned up the pipe/adapter (nothing inside that would cause a low oil pressure reading) and remounted the oil pressure sensor and the safety switch. But now I am thinking out loud that neither one of these would make the oil pressure read low, but the switch does shut off the fuel pump if the pressure is too low. It did not lose all oil pressure, but now I am getting half of what I am used to seeing on the oil pressure gauge.

So now I am thinking of replacing the oil filter (I have a new Wix filter) since it was the only change to the engine before I made the next drive as when it started to lose oil pressure. I will change this filter this weekend and then see what the oil pressure is at startup.

But if changing the oil filter gives me the same oil pressure result, what are my next few steps? Pull the dist/oil pump drive shaft and inspect? Then plan on pulling the oil pan to replace the pump/pickup?

What do you think? I used a well known/good filter brand before and after the cam break in.


Thank you.

Keep it simple sam, change the filter & go from there. there are defective parts

My first step in resolving low oil pressure problems is to swap in a different mechanical gauge.

Cut open the old and new filter to look for metal filings.

There was a common trick to block off oil galleries on Roller and sometimes mechanical cams. Was this done?

If all checks out then pull the pan and double check that the pump isn't chewed up, the pickup tube is tight and free of garbage. Make sure the relief valve is free to move correctly.

If all that checks out then check the crank and bearings for wear while the pan is off.

Hope it helps.

Thank you for the responses!
I will stay the course and see what happens with the new filter.

napa gold is made by wix. i used a napa gold on my 91 318 truck. after it set all night and 1st start of day, lifters rattled a little. went to mopar 090 and no more rattle on cold start.

try a different filter first but not another wix/napa. fuel pressure issue? are you trying to use a mechanical pump to pull thru a vane type electric pump?

Holler how it turns out

""fuel pressure issue? are you trying to use a mechanical pump to pull thru a vane type electric pump?""

I am using an electric pump only. The fuel pressure issue is due to the oil pressure switch doing its job due to the low oil pressure. Once I get the low oil pressure resolved, the fuel pressure should be back.

I swapped out the oil filter last night but then I did ran out of time, so I will start it up Saturday to see what the oil pressure reads.

Thanks everyone!

If it still has low oil pressure you probably have a stuck high pressure bypass valve in the oil pump
Been there, done that more than once on a new motor during breakin

25 psi at idle is NOT LOW. OE spec is like 7-9 psi. I'm betting bypass valve.

Had a neighbor lose oil pressure and pick up a rock knock after changing the oil in his new to him 58 Powerwagon.

Turns out the guy he bought it from used gear oil in it to hide the rod knock in order to sell it.

Did you change oil weights or brands per chance?

I changed from the Driven break in oil to the Lucas Hot Rod 10W-40.

Having used neither oil, I can't comment on brands.

What weight was your break in oil?

you put a new cam and lifters in?
maybe the new lifters have slightly more clearance in the bores than the old?

""What weight was your break in oil?""
- It was the Driven brand 30.



""you put a new cam and lifters in?
maybe the new lifters have slightly more clearance in the bores than the old?""

My previous cam was in this engine for 16 years and it always showed 22'ish at idle and 50'ish at cruise. Then I swapped the cam/lifters and it too showed the same oil pressure during break in and the next 3-4 hours of driving. Then right after I drained the break in oil/filter and replaced them both is when the oil pressure went down on the first drive.

Thank you both!

Just check or replace in the order of simplest to hardest. Probably:

1) Filter
2) guage/send.
3) Pull valve covers
4) drop pan

Cut open the just replaced oil filter too

Thank you BSB67. I was just thinking if I have a mechanical gauge that I could swap into the existing sender port. 👍

Note: I forgot to mention this but I already cut open the 1 drive NAPA/Wix oil filter and did not find any metal shavings in the filter material. The new filter is a WIX brand.

Myself, I would
1. Put a drill motor on the oil pump drive. Take a reading. The advantage to doing so is you now have a constant RPM on the pump to take and compare readings. In addition, if there is a problem no further damage is being done by starting the motor.
A Corded electric drill would be preferred as you are removing the variable of a cordless drills battery. Yes I still have 3 or so LOL

2. Then install a new or known good mechanical gauge and repeat.
3. Compare the two.
4.Only other variable is the oils which you could change again if desired but a pricey option
5. Pulling the valve covers is easier that the pan but if # 4 doesn't revive the pressure see #6. If you do pull the covers make sure the ends of the rocker shafts are not leaking (longshot)

6. I going to agree with a few others and guess that the relief valve in the oil pump is hung slightly open or the pickup tube developed and issue.
The good new is no metal in the filter keep us posted

I once had a 318 that developed low pressure and it was the threaded galley plug behind the cam gear.

UPDATE:

I fired it up and the oil pressure went to 38-40psi cold High Idle (which is normal on this gauge) and after about 10 minutes of fast idle, it worked its way downward. At an idle of 1200rpms, the oil pressure looks like 12-13psi which is also what I would call normal on this guage. It appears that I am back to what I would call normal oil psi readings for this car.

Issues:
The main issue that I found while swapping out the Holley fuel pump safety switch was that when I tightened down the three screws on top of the switch, they were tight. But what I found by mistake was that the screws were tight, but the wire ferrules were not! So I added a washer to two of the three screws and the wire ferrules are now tight.

I mentioned earlier that when I first noticed my oil pressure went down after that first drive after the oil change, I noticed when I got back to the garage that one of the three screws had come loose on the previous FPSS. So I tightened it up but there was no change in the oil pressure. When I swapped over to the new FPSS, that is when I found that the screws were not tightening down on the ferrules even though the screws were tight. I now have a backup FPSS

My fuel pressure is now back to normal too. One of the wires on the FPSS goes to the fuel pump.

Awesome glad it wasn't internal.

Why is it idling at 1,200 rpms. To me you should have 20 to 25 at a hot 700-800 idle rpm setting. If this motor is fresh something does not seem right to me.

I just threw in the distributor and have not dialed in the timing/idle rpms. This was just a test to see what the oil pressure was at after replacing the magnetic pickup. This engine has a 22year old bottom end in it for reference.

I am currently running the Lucas Hot Rod 10W-40 showing the above oil pressure readings. Would my psi numbers come up if I switch over to the Hot Rod 20W-50?

Thanks

While the oil may increase the pressure it is just a band aid. I believe you may have to much bearing clearance or a pump issue. I guess if the lifters are not clattering you are somewhat OK. I will just about bet when you get a few miles on that oil and put the idle where it should be that gauge needle will be wanting to hug that zero. You could verify that gauge's accuracy with a known good gauge.

^ first thing i would do since you can get your current gauge to read differently based on your sending unit connections...hook up a good mechanical gauge (even if just temporarily) and see what your psi is. maybe your electric gauge reads a bit low.

A known accurate gauge properly connected would be a great step one. A mechanical one where the sender is cuts way down on accuracy problems outside the motor. Ya know, like loose connections. My escalation process has generally gone like this:

Starting with a fresh bottom end, run 10w40 for the first 100,000 miles or so.

When bearing wear starts dropping the pressure, run 20w50 for the next 100,000 miles or so.

Add STP (if it still exists) to get the last miles.

Install a high volume oil pump and go back to 10/40.

The last new to me 360 had crap for oil pressure. When I finally got around to yanking the pan I found way too much of the pan gasket clogging the pick up.

I will pickup a mechanical gauge and see what is shows

Thanks

Update:
I installed a mechanical oil pressure guage and at a cold high idle, it showed 38psi at 1400rpms. Then the pressure started dropping in a couple of minutes to 32psi but at a higher 1600rpms. Then I dropped the idle down to 900rpms and it showed 12psi but after about a minute or two at 900rpms, then the gauge showed 10psi. I then shut it off.

Last night I was playing with the timing and after about 10 minutes or so of a higher idle, I dropped the idle down to about 1000 while playing with the timing. Then I noticed the fuel pressure dropped to zero and then the oil psi was under 10. The oil pressure safety switch is doing its job by shutting down the fuel but I assume this means the pan is coming off.

Note: These are solid flat tappet lifters with .012" EDM holes. Should I be looking at a new pump and a HV unit? I want to turn 6000-6200rpms when everything is safe. I'm not buying any parts until the problem is known, but if I am that far into it should I be thinking of parts?

Thank you!!

I would pull the pan and look at the bearings. Then go from there.

I am in the process of pulling the pan and what a PITA 😀. My drivers side engine mount is covering up one of the pan bolts, so I will keep pulling off parts until that pan falls off. I do have some plastigage on hand.
Thank you!

i always refer to issues like yours as "bleeders:.i've built them before and never found a comfort with them. there could be a multitude of small things that can contribute to this but in my experience the majority "bleeding" is in the bearings (rods and mains). there could be a cam bearing issue and i'm sure edm tappets don't help matters but i doubt the main cause. my opinion is if your going as far as pan removal then go the extra step and get the engine out on a stand. it's the only sane way to diagnose the issue and solve it.

I tend to agree with the above for several reasons. #1 it's going the be a lot easier on a stand. #2 the lack of metal in the filters indicates it's likely not a wear problem. #3 You can prime the motor on the stand & check the readings before re installation.
If you had taken the readings by running the pump with a corded electric drill before dropping the pan you would have a reference point. Possibly you still can by just bolting the pan back up and putting the oil back in. It's not going to make a mess as the motor will not be running, just circulating the oil and it will be a very VALUABLE reference point. Might even be worthwhile to pull the plugs and have a helper slowly rotate the motor 4 complete revolutions while watching the gauge for any variation

Your previous readings (before the oil & filter change) were not all that impressive IMO. I have zero experience with the EDM lifters so I cannot offer any advise there but perhaps the supplier of the lifters can. how much lift does the cam have? I have read of a few instances where an excess amount of lift raised the "oiling" band above the lifter bore. Anther thing to check would be the lifter to bore clearance. Good luck and do keep us posted

another thought is the left side lifter galley plug at the back of the engine block. if that is missing, loose, or drilled it'll kill low rpm oil pressure in a small block. been thru that before.

Thanks for the replies!
I don't have the means of pulling this engine, so I will just have to keep wining while pulling off the parts.

Lewtot184:
""the left side lifter galley plug at the back of the engine block""

I am not familiar with this plug, is it in this picture (hiding in the lower right hand corner) that I took during the cam swap?
Thank you.

it's 1/4" socket head pipe plug at the end of the lifter galley on the driver side. it's in front of the intermediate shaft. probably can't see it but with the intermediate shaft out you should be able to stick a finger back in there and fell for the plug. a test would be to drive the oil pump and see if any oil comes out the back of that galley. any oil comes out and the plug is missing, common goof up. in fact your oil pressure issues are nearly identical to what i experienced with a 360 without the plug.

I got one on the stand test fitting the crank and other parts so I snapped a few pics.

front

Unless I skimmed over it did you ever try a thicker oil like a 20-40 or a straight 30? EDM-s just add to things leaking like mad.

Rememeber the oil we used to run and the relevance of viscosity back in the day. 10w anything is tight stocker oil, not a leaker motor or anything that will rpm.

Remember the good days of straight 30-40-50 weights castrol gtx, thick and green?

Great Pic's and explanation's Potato

Thank you Mr. P!

As I work my way back out of the pan I will check out those areas.

I got the pan off and found chunks of gasket material in the pickup and in the pan. I was able to scrape some out of the pickup with my finger tip and there is a piece hanging on in this picture. This does not surprise me since I have made three cam swaps with this pan in place over the years.

My next move is to check the bearings.

Note: The existing pump has a HV tag and has been in this engine for 22+ years but only about 5-7k miles.

While you're their you may want to make sure there isn't a hairline crack in the pickup tube. they can sometimes happen on the threaded end. Kind of a longshot BUT ?

TJP:
I am going to replace the pump, so when I pull it I will clean out the pickup and check it close. I may just buy a new pickup too.

Thanks

I pulled the pump and pickup this morning and found no gasket between the block and pump. Is this correct? All the pictures of new pumps show a gasket.
I also found the inside of the pickup to have orange and blue gasket material up inside of the pickup screen. I can’t get the pickup removed or get the screws off the pump cover to look inside.

I am feeling a little weenie thinking about pulling any of the main caps. I’ve never done it before and could use some advice.
Thanks!!

Most do not have a gasket. Do one of the center mains. Take the bolts out and tap the cap from side to side and wiggle it. Do not mix these parts up. Check a couple rod bearings.

Will the bearing fall out of the cap?

Do I need to wipe off the oil before applying a piece of the plasti-gage?

Thanks again!

the bearing should not fall out of the cap. if it does it should be replaced or the cap is oversized. And yes both the bearing and cranks surfaces should be dry to get and accurate reading with plasti gauge. I would do 1 bearing at a time, relube and reinstall before going to the next.
If the pump and main cap surfaces are machined properly, perfectly flat with no gouges deep scratches etc. a gasket should not be required.

Thank you TJP!

I got some time today to pull the oil pump apart and found some damage to rotor and housing. I also dug out some more crud from the screen.
I will check back in when I get some time to check the clearances.
Thanks

What did the bypass look like?

I didn’t pull it apart (I got called in to start the grill), but I will tomorrow. That will be the first item on the list.

Thanks

Well that pump for sure is not good. Inspect all the bearings and go from there.

Nitro:
I have ordered a new pump/pickup and while I am waiting on them to be delivered, I will check the bearings. Thank you!

Definitely TOAST, The next question is why? appears as though A LOT of foreign metal went through that pump. Hopefully someone installed a used pump

Waiting to see some bearing pics.

What rocker arms are you running?

To me overall and with the paperwork it looks like a decent build. I wonder if thats a melling pump or the reman version of the hv72?

How hard did you run this motor?

Mr P:
I hope to get time to look at the bearings this week.

I run Yella Terra 1.65 rockers for about 5 years now on two different sets of heads.

I had not run the motor hard since the cam swap over the Winter. I had put about 4 hours of cruising time on the new cam/lifters and then I changed the break-in oil over to 10W-40. On that first drive on the 10W-40 is when I noticed the oil pressure change during the drive. I just got done with a half throttle hit and then came to a stop sign and I noticed the oil pressure going down. I was actually getting ready to make a WOT hit and that is when I looked at the guage. I slowly made it back to the garage with no extra engine noise. The gauge was showing 25'ish while cruising back to the garage. Ever since this time I have been showing 38'ish on cold startup and then it creeped down to 10 or less at warm idle. Then I started pulling it apart.

Thanks!

No crud found in relief valve of oil pump. The valve needed a little persuasion to come out though. It seemed stuck.

First bearing cap: please let me know.

Stuckk valve might have been your oil pressure issue. As for the cap, it;s the bearing we really need to see.

Wheres the beef? I mean bearing shell?

This looks ugly

Meet the uglier partner:

Start pulling it.

Rebuild time. Sorry.

No need for plasti gage
Don't know the history on the motor but a lot of metal or other foreign material went through it at some point.
I had a friend years ago that blasted his oil pan in a blast cabinet. He was convinced he got all the residual dust / abrasive out. Within 10 minutes of starting the motor his oil pressure dropped to about 20 pounds. The pump and bearings resembled yours Bummer

At least no you know why the oil pressure was low. What does the crank look like?

If this is your current setup...

340 (234/238@.050, .590"/.603") Solid FT, Yella Terra 1.65 rockers, 9.7:1, 63cc Sidewinders (Bowl Ported),RPM intake, QF SS-750 Annular DP, MSD Street Fire Ign., & TTI's. 727/Dynamic 9.5" 3800, TF-2, & 3:91's

I wonder if it was on the tight side of life?

Mr P may be right. I rebuilt the top end a few times and now it appears that it is time to get the bottom end straighten out.

The crank has some scratches by sight but the fingers did not feel much. It is time to rethink the numbers matching stock stroke thing.

Thank you all for your help! I learned a few things and that is what it is all about for me.

D

Did this motor ever eat a cam lobe since it was rebuilt?

I have had the car for 21 of the 24 years since the block was rebuilt. I never lost a lobe. I did drop a valve but no parts dropped into the engine.

That's a lot of years. No doubt something got in there.

Parts a XXXX to get these days, just a thought but you could always get your crank cut with a bit more clearance and save finding the extra .001 bearings and if your skirts are still ok send them out to get coated or re coated hone and go.

Not impossible but its a chore currently to get from A to Z without a parts issue.

On the other side of the coin if your wanting to stroke its not going to get cheaper as parts prices and machine shop prices continue on the rise.

A lot of good folks on here helping others with parts if you put a want ad up.... got me out of a pinch a few times.

I hope you post pics of your tear down, interesting combo and as well with the rockers you use.

While thinking this through and you approach to resolving it, Do not forget about the cam bearings, valve guides, Piston skirts, cylinder walls, rockers and shafts etc.
I'm thinking this motor had something floating around inside likely before you bought it. What it was is anyone's guess.
A cam lobe would be high on my list of suspicions. I can't remember when the ZDDP thing surfaced but alot of people were eating camshafts about that time, 1999-2000 ?
I would pull the motor and do a complete teardown/inspection/rebuild. Or buy a crate from a reputable source, and sell what you have to recoup some $$

I am planning on tearing it down in the near future. I need to make sure that nothing on the upper end caused this issue.

I have a couple of local automotive machine shops who could take care of the bottom end for me, but I am not going to decide on a direction until I get the upper end apart.

Thanks!

saw this in another thread and thought it might be helpful here.
can't tell for sure on the bearings color, it does look black. possibly foreign material or oil starvation.
https://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/m...114-engine-bearing-failures-brochure.pdf

K:
Thanks for that brochure!
After reading thru it, number 17 (oil starvation) looks a lot like what this bearing shows. The bearing also is not round anymore. It is distorted and does not fit the cap.

17 Oil starvation
APPEARANCE
When a bearing has failed due to oil starvation, its surface is usually very
shiny. In addition, there may be excessive wear of the bearing surface due to
the wiping action of the journal. In the most severe cases the bearing surface
will be smeared or scratched and torn. The bearing will begin to turn dark blue
to black in color.
DAMAGING ACTION
The absence of a sufficient oil film between the bearing and the journal
permits metal-to-metal contact. The resulting wiping action causes premature
bearing fatigue.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
1. Insufficient oil clearance – usually the result of utilizing a replacement
bearing that has too great a wall thickness. In some cases, the journal
may be oversize.
2. Broken or plugged oil passages, prohibiting proper oil flow.
3. A blocked oil suction screen or oil filter.
4. A malfunctioning oil pump or pressure relief valve.
5. Misassembling main bearings metering off an oil hole.
6. Lubrication system not primed before start up.

i would still yank the intake and make sure that plug at the back of the drivers side lifter galley isn't missing. never the less the bottom end is bad. looks like trash ran thru the engine or it was put together dirty. too much rpm with half groove mains and low oil pressure/supply ain't good. if the cylinder bores aren't wrecked i'd just clean the bottom end good, ring and bearing, and drive it some more.

""A cam lobe would be high on my list of suspicions.""

I finally got around to pulling the engine apart to find that the new SFT cam that I installed back in the Spring survived. This makes me feel a little better about putting another SFT in the engine when it goes back together. This is good news but this does not help with where the debris came from that took out the oil pump.

But, I was reminded about an issue back in 2017 after I pulled off the water pump housing. When I thought it would be a good idea to add a spring inside of the water pump hose to keep it from collapsing, I found this in 2017 when I pulled my water pump off due to some noise. You can see the debris that came off of the housing and I assume that the filter caught most of it back then.

I have a feeling that the oil pump has been taking a beating for a few years. Then with the latest cam change and all of the debris in the pickup, that it couldn’t keep up anymore.

Anyway, I plan to have the engine out of the car in about two weeks. I will then take it to the machine shop to have the block cleaned/checked and then we will make a decision at that time on how to move forward. In the mean time I have been cleaning/painting parts as they come off the engine and buying the new parts that will be needed for reassembly.

Thank you everyone!

I took these pictures late last night but as I was looking at them this morning, I found a shiny lobe in this picture. I will check that out closer tonight.

The lobes look fine except for #2 intake (4th lobe back) which looks a bit suspicious but it could be the pic as well. When you pull the lifters put a thin straight edge across the bottom while holding it up to a light. There should be a slight crown (radius) with the high point in the middle. If not
Also if you plan on re using the cam and lifters, the lifters must be kept in order so they go back to the same lobe. A small box or 2x4 with recessed holes works well. make sure it is CLEARLY MARKED

I forgot that plug once on a 360. During the cam break in, the lifters were rattling and the oil pressure dropped from about 50# to about 10# IIRC. Pulled the distributor and oil pump gear to get the pre-lube shaft in and when I started, there was no mistaking the flood of oil coming out the rear of the left side galley! Haven't forgotten one of those since (have found new mistakes to make).

I will look at that one lobe tonight to confirm why it looks shiny, and I will mark each lifter upon removal. I have not decided if I will be reusing this cam/lifter set at this time.

Once I have the block on the stand, I am going to take pictures of all of the plugs per this thread. So when it goes back together I know where they should all be located.

Thanks!!

EDIT:
I checked the shiny lobes and they look fine. It appears to be the lighting that affected the two lobes.

Have you checked the lifters for the "crown"?

Not yet. I am currently cleaning/painting the intake and then I will start pulling and cleaning the rocker assemblies. Then I will mark and inspect the lifters. Thank you!

""Have you checked the lifters for the "crown"?""

I did finally get around to pulling all the lifters and each one was smooth and the center had a roundish color to it versus the outer part of the lifter face. This appears to be the crown. The lobes on the cam were fine too. The shiny lobes were the lighting. I doubt that I will reuse this cam/lifter set on the rebuild.

I know that I have excessive crank endplay. I have not measured it yet, but the crank makes a good "thunk" noise when I pull/push it with the dampner. In a few weeks I will be getting back on this project. The engine is ready to pull, I just need to pickup a hoist and get it on my stand. Then I will get the crank out and see how much damage is on the crank. The only photo that I have right now on the thrust bearing area is this assembly. But when I zoom in on the crank, it appears that there may be some damage.

Thanks!

Any pic's of the bearing half. They are softer so consequently show more about what may have been going through the motor.
The only way to properly check the bottom of the lifter is with a small staight edge, centered on the bottom, and looking up at a light. The center of the lifter should be the high spot. It's not much of a crown but should be visible using the above method

This is the best picture of that bearing half that I have right now. I will pull the lifters back out and check them with a straight edge.

Thanks!

WOW!! that's trashed
Something either went through there, it was a really DRY initial start or ran on really low oil /pressure.

I am still thinking out loud as to what else to check before pulling the block. I am still looking for a solid reason for the oil pump/bearing damage.

I have not rechecked the lifters yet, as they are packed away. But they each looked nice and smooth as did the cam lobes when I packed them up.

I checked the crankshaft end play and found it at .022” pulling front to rear. This is not as bad as I would have guessed with the clunk noise that it makes. I know this is out of spec and I will look at the crank thrust surface in the near future.

I checked the gap between the flex-plate and the 727 converter mounting tabs (pushed all the way inward) and the gap measured .160”-.165” at all four tabs.

I am hoping to pickup an engine hoist next week, so in the mean time I am thinking of things to check.

Thanks!

Quote

This engine has a 22year old bottom end in it for reference.

From an earlier post, You may never find the root cause unless you know the entire history of the motor. It may have been subjected to any one of many different issues over the years.

Time to build a short block to mach the rest of your combo and one that meets your expectations and one that will live with reg. maintenance.

340 (234/238@.050, .590"/.603") Solid FT, Yella Terra 1.65 rockers, 9.7:1, 63cc Sidewinders (Bowl Ported),RPM intake, QF SS-750 Annular DP, MSD Street Fire Ign., & TTI's. 727/Dynamic 9.5" 3800, TF-2, & 3:91's

Thank you guys!

I have talked to an engine shop who I have used in the past. Once I get the block out and parts stripped, they are going to clean it and inspect it and then we will finish the plan. Depending on the condition of the stock crank, we have also discussed them building the rotating assembly with either a 3.79" (cam=6300rpms) or a 4.00" (cam=6000rpms) crank depending on what is available. I have received cam specs (SFT) on both new crank sizes from the grinder. Then I plan on finishing the assembly with most of the parts that I already have.

This will be a long process which I hope it will be back together by Spring.

I finished taking apart the engine and I am taking the block to the machine shop in two weeks for cleaning and inspection.

As I am still looking for a cause for the oil pump damage, I did find some heavy wear to the thrust side on the crank. It looks like it has been machined down while the engine was running. This debris from the crank could have been what damaged the oil pump. This crank will not be reused.

Note: The piece of material on that bearing surface is just some material that I did not get wiped off at the time of the pictured.

I am going to have the machine shop price me out a rotating assembly for both the 3.79" and 4.00" cranks depending on availability. I already have camshafts spec'd out for both size cranks. Once I know the condition of the block (bores are very smooth with no wear ridge) and I know which crank, then I will get the cam on order while the rotating assembly goes back together.

Thanks for checking in!

Not knowing the history in the lower end or what caused the damage and when, I would have the entire motor gone through, heads and valvetrain included. At this point it's not worth trying to save a few $$ and have that savings wind up costing more in the long run.

I have already had the heads apart, cleaned and now reassembled. I have a new oil pump and pickup and the pan has been cleaned and repainted. I am not reusing the crank/rods/pistons. Once it is out of the shop as a rotating assembly, all of the parts have been cleaned/painted and it is ready to go back together.

Thanks!

This was run all the time behind an automatic? If so you could have a ballooned converter. Did you run nitrous?

""This was run all the time behind an automatic? If so you could have a ballooned converter. Did you run nitrous?""

This engine has always run in front of a 727. But I have had three different converters in it over the last 22 years since this motor was last rebuilt. The current converter I was able to spin with no clearance issues to the flex plate. I will be checking the clearance again once the engine goes back in.

No on the nitrous.

Thanks!

The only other issue that I can think of is that about 4 years ago when I had the 727 rebuilt, I bought a Dynamic converter from the builder. When I installed the rebuilt trans with the Dynamic, the flex plate drug on the converter. So I asked the builder what I can do and he sold me a .062" spacer that just bolts in between the engine and the 727 and then I had clearance. The previous TA converter that I had seemed to have more clearance to the flex plate than this new Dynamic has. But once I installed the spacer, then I bolted it up to the engine and has been that way since a few weeks ago when I pulled the engine. I checked this spacing again and I was able to spin the converter with no interference but I did not check the gap distance.

""Time to build a short block to match the rest of your combo and one that meets your expectations and one that will live with reg. maintenance.""

A small update:

Back when I finished this thread, I removed the block from the car, and removed everything off of the block (except main caps) and dropped it off to a local performance machine shop that I have used in the past. This shop is small and very busy, but he is finally making progress on my block as of last Friday.

After a cleaning and initial inspection, he is now to the point of ordering forged H-beam Molnar rods/4.00" crank and having to order custom pistons (nothing on the shelf) to assemble a 10.5-10.8 compression rotating assembly (per cam grinder).

I am discussing the cam with Mike Jones to come up with a solid-street roller, and BAM lifters to match my existing 281cfm @ .550" heads and a 420" stroker rotating assembly. This is a 6-6200 rpm build and I will reuse as many parts as I can. It appears to be a SR with .660" lifts after lash. I know that the actual lifts will be smaller due to valve train angles, but I am excited about the new direction of this numbers matching build.

I have been collecting the small parts that I know will be needed and I am starting on the larger parts that may have delivery issues. I have two intakes on hand, one is my RPM that is gasket matched (a lot of material came out of this intake) and a Weiand X-celerator that is about 80% gasket matched to the RPM using the same set of gaskets. I wanted to have both a dual plane and a single plane that were equally gasket matched so that I can bolt on either one at final assembly. I am currently looking at using the RPM since it is a streetcar, so I stopped on finishing the gasket match on the X-celerator. I may get bored waiting on the rotating assembly and finish the Weiand this Fall. But I plan to reuse the ported Sidewinders and the 1.65 Yella Terras for this build. I already have my new retainers and installed heights figured out for the new springs. I have talked with Manton about the spring pressures/rpm’s and the apx pushrod lengths and they have recommended their 11/32” x .120” wall Stage 3 or 5’s for this setup.

Thanks to everyone who helped with the oil pressure issue, as I will have more questions as the street build continues this coming Winter.



D