Why is it idling at 1,200 rpms. To me you should have 20 to 25 at a hot 700-800 idle rpm setting. If this motor is fresh something does not seem right to me.

I just threw in the distributor and have not dialed in the timing/idle rpms. This was just a test to see what the oil pressure was at after replacing the magnetic pickup. This engine has a 22year old bottom end in it for reference.

I am currently running the Lucas Hot Rod 10W-40 showing the above oil pressure readings. Would my psi numbers come up if I switch over to the Hot Rod 20W-50?

Thanks

While the oil may increase the pressure it is just a band aid. I believe you may have to much bearing clearance or a pump issue. I guess if the lifters are not clattering you are somewhat OK. I will just about bet when you get a few miles on that oil and put the idle where it should be that gauge needle will be wanting to hug that zero. You could verify that gauge's accuracy with a known good gauge.

^ first thing i would do since you can get your current gauge to read differently based on your sending unit connections...hook up a good mechanical gauge (even if just temporarily) and see what your psi is. maybe your electric gauge reads a bit low.

A known accurate gauge properly connected would be a great step one. A mechanical one where the sender is cuts way down on accuracy problems outside the motor. Ya know, like loose connections. My escalation process has generally gone like this:

Starting with a fresh bottom end, run 10w40 for the first 100,000 miles or so.

When bearing wear starts dropping the pressure, run 20w50 for the next 100,000 miles or so.

Add STP (if it still exists) to get the last miles.

Install a high volume oil pump and go back to 10/40.

The last new to me 360 had crap for oil pressure. When I finally got around to yanking the pan I found way too much of the pan gasket clogging the pick up.

I will pickup a mechanical gauge and see what is shows

Thanks

Update:
I installed a mechanical oil pressure guage and at a cold high idle, it showed 38psi at 1400rpms. Then the pressure started dropping in a couple of minutes to 32psi but at a higher 1600rpms. Then I dropped the idle down to 900rpms and it showed 12psi but after about a minute or two at 900rpms, then the gauge showed 10psi. I then shut it off.

Last night I was playing with the timing and after about 10 minutes or so of a higher idle, I dropped the idle down to about 1000 while playing with the timing. Then I noticed the fuel pressure dropped to zero and then the oil psi was under 10. The oil pressure safety switch is doing its job by shutting down the fuel but I assume this means the pan is coming off.

Note: These are solid flat tappet lifters with .012" EDM holes. Should I be looking at a new pump and a HV unit? I want to turn 6000-6200rpms when everything is safe. I'm not buying any parts until the problem is known, but if I am that far into it should I be thinking of parts?

Thank you!!

I would pull the pan and look at the bearings. Then go from there.

I am in the process of pulling the pan and what a PITA 😀. My drivers side engine mount is covering up one of the pan bolts, so I will keep pulling off parts until that pan falls off. I do have some plastigage on hand.
Thank you!

i always refer to issues like yours as "bleeders:.i've built them before and never found a comfort with them. there could be a multitude of small things that can contribute to this but in my experience the majority "bleeding" is in the bearings (rods and mains). there could be a cam bearing issue and i'm sure edm tappets don't help matters but i doubt the main cause. my opinion is if your going as far as pan removal then go the extra step and get the engine out on a stand. it's the only sane way to diagnose the issue and solve it.

I tend to agree with the above for several reasons. #1 it's going the be a lot easier on a stand. #2 the lack of metal in the filters indicates it's likely not a wear problem. #3 You can prime the motor on the stand & check the readings before re installation.
If you had taken the readings by running the pump with a corded electric drill before dropping the pan you would have a reference point. Possibly you still can by just bolting the pan back up and putting the oil back in. It's not going to make a mess as the motor will not be running, just circulating the oil and it will be a very VALUABLE reference point. Might even be worthwhile to pull the plugs and have a helper slowly rotate the motor 4 complete revolutions while watching the gauge for any variation

Your previous readings (before the oil & filter change) were not all that impressive IMO. I have zero experience with the EDM lifters so I cannot offer any advise there but perhaps the supplier of the lifters can. how much lift does the cam have? I have read of a few instances where an excess amount of lift raised the "oiling" band above the lifter bore. Anther thing to check would be the lifter to bore clearance. Good luck and do keep us posted

another thought is the left side lifter galley plug at the back of the engine block. if that is missing, loose, or drilled it'll kill low rpm oil pressure in a small block. been thru that before.

Thanks for the replies!
I don't have the means of pulling this engine, so I will just have to keep wining while pulling off the parts.

Lewtot184:
""the left side lifter galley plug at the back of the engine block""

I am not familiar with this plug, is it in this picture (hiding in the lower right hand corner) that I took during the cam swap?
Thank you.

it's 1/4" socket head pipe plug at the end of the lifter galley on the driver side. it's in front of the intermediate shaft. probably can't see it but with the intermediate shaft out you should be able to stick a finger back in there and fell for the plug. a test would be to drive the oil pump and see if any oil comes out the back of that galley. any oil comes out and the plug is missing, common goof up. in fact your oil pressure issues are nearly identical to what i experienced with a 360 without the plug.

I got one on the stand test fitting the crank and other parts so I snapped a few pics.

front

Unless I skimmed over it did you ever try a thicker oil like a 20-40 or a straight 30? EDM-s just add to things leaking like mad.

Rememeber the oil we used to run and the relevance of viscosity back in the day. 10w anything is tight stocker oil, not a leaker motor or anything that will rpm.

Remember the good days of straight 30-40-50 weights castrol gtx, thick and green?

Great Pic's and explanation's Potato