You were talking about putting a shaft kit in it, that would give you the instructions on lining up the cage to the manual valve, and how to measure the pressure regulator. The old b@m and trans go kits came with a template to set it. You could either find the instructions online or I could send you a pic of the template later.

I don't recall mentioning a shift kit in any of my threads... I'm pretty sure I won't be getting a new shift kit. I just need to make sure this one's adjusted, thanks!

OIC, I saw the firmer shifts and guess I mistook that. Tighten all the valve body screws to 35 inch pounds except the 3 holding the regulator cage, then measure 1-7/8" between the edge of the regulator valve adjusting screw, the allen head one, yr yto the edge of the manual valve, tighten the 3 screws. The pressure regulator is adjusted to 1-9/32" from the casting to the regulator spring adjusting plate. These are trans go specs, I would not turn a stock trans up more. One other thing I need to address is the rear band breaking, harsh engagement does break the band and fold over the apply strut, especially after installing a shift kit because reverse pressure is so high. In the 70s a buddy that owned an ammco trans shop said that is why they did the 2 holes and a single ball, maybe he was wrong. He also told me to drill a .060 hole in the reverse servo on plow trucks because of the constant forward reverse slam,and not use the shim shift kits had in the rear servo, to not break things with the pressure turned up. I have never worn a rear band, only broke the ears off. Anyway this guy was pretty successful, had to warranty transmissions, and did not have many failures so who knows if he was right. All I know is he sold us red clutch rebuild kits for $30, red bands for $15, and showed us how to modify the rear support and cooler feed to stop those failures.

Oh yeah, he used to call Chrysler reverse engagement "The Direct Connection" lmao.

OIC, I saw the firmer shifts and guess I mistook that. Tighten all the valve body screws to 35 inch pounds except the 3 holding the regulator cage, then measure 1-7/8" between the edge of the regulator valve adjusting screw, the allen head one, yr yto the edge of the manual valve, tighten the 3 screws. The pressure regulator is adjusted to 1-9/32" from the casting to the regulator spring adjusting plate. These are trans go specs, I would not turn a stock trans up more. One other thing I need to address is the rear band breaking, harsh engagement does break the band and fold over the apply strut, especially after installing a shift kit because reverse pressure is so high. In the 70s a buddy that owned an ammco trans shop said that is why they did the 2 holes and a single ball, maybe he was wrong. He also told me to drill a .060 hole in the reverse servo on plow trucks because of the constant forward reverse slam,and not use the shim shift kits had in the rear servo, to not break things with the pressure turned up. I have never worn a rear band, only broke the ears off. Anyway this guy was pretty successful, had to warranty transmissions, and did not have many failures so who knows if he was right. All I know is he sold us red clutch rebuild kits for $30, red bands for $15, and showed us how to modify the rear support and cooler feed to stop those failures.

Oh yeah, he used to call Chrysler reverse engagement "The Direct Connection" lmao.

OIC, I saw the firmer shifts and guess I mistook that. Tighten all the valve body screws to 35 inch pounds except the 3 holding the regulator cage, then measure 1-7/8" between the edge of the regulator valve adjusting screw, the allen head one, yr yto the edge of the manual valve, tighten the 3 screws. The pressure regulator is adjusted to 1-9/32" from the casting to the regulator spring adjusting plate. These are trans go specs, I would not turn a stock trans up more. One other thing I need to address is the rear band breaking, harsh engagement does break the band and fold over the apply strut, especially after installing a shift kit because reverse pressure is so high. In the 70s a buddy that owned an ammco trans shop said that is why they did the 2 holes and a single ball, maybe he was wrong. He also told me to drill a .060 hole in the reverse servo on plow trucks because of the constant forward reverse slam,and not use the shim shift kits had in the rear servo, to not break things with the pressure turned up. I have never worn a rear band, only broke the ears off. Anyway this guy was pretty successful, had to warranty transmissions, and did not have many failures so who knows if he was right. All I know is he sold us red clutch rebuild kits for $30, red bands for $15, and showed us how to modify the rear support and cooler feed to stop those failures.

Oh yeah, he used to call Chrysler reverse engagement "The Direct Connection" lmao.

So I decided to finally get to the adjusting screws and I'm having trouble understanding your instructions... I've provided a picture for reference...

You said "measure 1-7/8" between the edge of the regulator valve adjusting screw, the allen head one, yr yto the edge of the manual valve, tighten the 3 screws. "

First off both throttle and line pressure adjusting screws are Allen head...
How am I suppose to measure from the regulator valve screw(line pressure adjusting screw) to the edge of the manual valve? I've pointed this out in the picture with yellow arrows.

here is the picture in a B&M shift kit instruction sheet.
the 1 7/8" measurement is from the edge of the manual valve to the edge of the pressure adjustment screw.
the main reason to do this is to keep the "cage" parallel so nothing binds.
i hope this isn't too small to see.

Ok so I noticed the throttle adjustment screw has some discoloration on the threads from where it was originally adjusted correctly. I measured the gap with the 1/8" bit and the throttle screw is off by at least 1/8th"!

The shop that rebuilt this made too many rookie mistakes IMO... Makes me suspicious...

Is that thread locker or just paint on those threads?

Threadlocker, they used a locknut on earlier valve bodies. I would go with the first spec I gave you for the regulator, but it is your call. Yes they made a few mistakes.

I really don't understand the difference of the pressure adjustment...

What difference will it make setting the line pressure at 1 1/4" vs 1 9/32?
Is it that the tighter the adjustment the more "umph" it will have for shifting?

Tighter adjustment means more line pressure. That’s means a more firm clutch or band application, more holding effort. Each full turn is around 1 to 1-3/4 more psi depending on spring condition.

Threadlocker, they used a locknut on earlier valve bodies. I would go with the first spec I gave you for the regulator, but it is your call. Yes they made a few mistakes.

Tighter adjustment means more line pressure. That’s means a more firm clutch or band application, more holding effort. Each full turn is around 1 to 1-3/4 more psi depending on spring condition.