Almost exactly what I would have recommended. Plus, I dont think you need a dominator carb.

What pistons are in this engine? Might not have much compression with 90+cc iron heads.

You said that you have 1 7/8 Hooker Comp headers that wouldn't work with your alum. heads. I thought the 1 7/8" Comps and 2" Super Comps were OK with angle plugs and it was the 1 7/8" Super Comps that didn't work with angle plugs. I could be wrong.

Edit. I was wrong. All the hookers require dings to fit angle plugs. Looks like you need Doug's or Tti.
Or a torch and a bfh

I think you really just need some minor tweaking. Honestly at 3150 lbs you should be able to run the number even with the 906 heads.

Here is an Example( yeah I know aluminum heads but we are 500lbs more and these aren't that much of an improvement over the 906)
72 Cuda 3650 lbs
Eddy heads 10.5 comp
Comp cam Number:XS282S
Duration at .50 is 244 and 252
Lift .52 and 5.4
Performer intake w/ 950 holley
Headers are Comps 1 7/8 with mufflers
Auto with 4200 stall
4.10 gears with spool
15x29.5x9 slicks
Car runs right where you are now shifting at 5400 rpm and 500lbs heavier
Oh it also runs power brakes

If this was my car I would get a better converter with more stall, we like PTC, change out the 488's. I would ditch the intake. Not a fan, if I remember right cylinders 3,5,2 and,4 are fairly restricted due to how intake bolt access was cast. Also add a 4150 carb. When footbraking we have had real good luck with the 950. I just don't see the need for the dominater.

See where that gets you. If not where you want then change the heads. I think you can get where you want pretty easily

You shouldn't need to change the jets to make it not bog or lay down off the starting line.
Two things can make the car bog or be lazy off the starting line, to rich or to lean. Most Dominator carbs have dual 50 CC accelerator pumps, way to much fuel through them will make it bog or load up the first ten to 30 ft. off the starting line, some of the later Holley Dominator have 30 CC pumps. What is the List number on your carb? It should be stamp with 4 small numbers on the top of the flange where the air cleaner sits if it is a early model and not a HP model
Do you have a weather station to race with? If not how about outside air temperature, humidity and barometric pressure information at the track?
Do you know about air density? If so do you remember or know how much it changes at the tracks you race at? The reason I'm bringing this up is you should not have to change the jet sizes unless the air density changes up or down by a 1000 ft. or more, lean it, smaller number on the jet, out one size if it goes up 1000 Ft, make it larger by one size if it goes down 1000 Ft.
I'm thinking the humidity back east will make a big difference on your air density, moisture molicules lean the air out, less water molicules make it better
As already suggested work on what you have now until you can't make it go any faster before changing parts, focus on the starting line first to make it consistent and faster
Keep us in the loop, we need more racers at the tracks

Agreed.

Just say you were in the market or in the need of a new carb. What would you suggest? Holley HP with the idle air by pass?

I would not change the carb. Even though I have a 750 double pumper on it now (6109) The fastest et and mph on the same engine in my car , on the same test and tune day, came with a 1150 dominator (7320). The best "new" carb in 4150 style I have had my hands on was a 80496

Again, thanks to everyone on your feedback. I spoke with my engine man today and he has been watching this post and was able to know exactly who this was by the details I posted. He suggests, (and I agree with him) that for now I focus on getting all the safety stuff checked out on the car before we even look at the engine. There is no doubt, the old drum brakes all the way around the car drag and have always been an issue. It is not a cheap option, but in the long run I do want to go to lightweight discs on all four wheels. This way I know I have the weight reduced some, less friction due to old drums, and better stopping power which is a safety thing. Now that I am older, I do care a bit more about that than I did in my 20's!
He also believes the radials can pick me up a little ET, so I am back to thinking I want to try these when I replace the tires.
He thinks the Carb is too big, but is more concerned about getting a better intake like the M1, so I will probably switch that out fairly soon.
There is no doubt I still need to learn more about tuning the carb, and while it may not be the best fit for now, if I ever do go faster, it will be good to keep it. I have a performer intake sitting on a car now, so I might take a look at trying that with a smaller carb. Seems like these days the best options are go with what you have sitting around when you can because items are hard to find and getting more expensive each day.

Maybe at this point you are asking, "Why does he have a new performer intake, and a set of Eddy heads sitting around?" well that is another story for later. Remind me to tell you that one.

So let me address Cab and the weather questions. I have detailed records from all my runs from 8/1999 - 4/2010, however I really did not understand what mattered until recently. All I was logging back then was temp, humidity and barometric pressure. I knew lower altitude track my car was faster, like Rockingham, but I did not fully grasp the air density. I have learned a good deal more about that since, and have even went back and found a few more details from dates that details are saved on www.airdensityonline.com. So thanks for that advice, and I will definitely be paying close attention to this as I run in the future. The last race I lost at Rockingham I felt like I was all over the details of the weather. My dial ins were spot on and the car was running on the number very consistently. Just before the run, I felt a slight breeze in my face. I did not adjust the dial in for it, and for the first time that day the car ran 2 hundredths off the dial instead of just one. I lost the race by .0048. No doubt weather can be a game changer.

Last note and it is bed time. Thanks for all the advice, and I agree with Cab one more time. Mopars win in the first half of the race, so focusing on the 60 ft, and getting out of the hole is where I am going to put my efforts for now.

Dang dude.....You kicking it OG style with that right there. Shades of ol Kevin Chapman.......

Your engine guy is very wise. I just assumed most of those safety issues had been addressed. Definitely address the front brakes. Luckily whenever I bought my car [68 Cuda] my friend had already converted the front brakes to disk off a 73 Dart. I would be thinking about having a stronger DS built with 1350 joints and yokes. I had mine built by a place that does truck DS. They also build for Pro stick cars, that cost about 250 with the U joints. Do you have the Performer or the Performer RPM? I'm asking because it took me 2yrs to snag an M/1 not many people want to let them go. I got a TM/7 from the same guy. Their out there, you just have to be at the right place at the right time ,I'm usually not that lucky.

What compression is he running ? I might have miss it, someone mention e-85 That 31 hundred something pound is that race weight?

I agree. Dad twisted a drive shaft in his Barracuda, so I know if I go any stronger on the engine, this is an upgrade I will need to do first.

So let me give everyone an update for today.
1. Went to NC and brought the car home to Georgia. Towed her over the mountains I-40 vs I-85 because 85 is just miserable to drive most of the time.
2. The car started right up. I did have to get a new battery, but otherwise ran fairly smooth.
3. I have an issue with the back wheel brakes locking up. They get tighter and tighter but do not release. This was an issue the last time I took the car out in 2018, so I know that has to be fixed before we can do anything else. We traced the issue back to the proportion valve. It was incredibly difficult to remove the lines from this valve! We also removed the master cylinder, cleaned it up and are rebuilding it. I know I want to replace the drum brakes with disc but was planning to only do the front for now. I think I want to go with the Wilwood Drag Dynalite brakes for the front. Brakes have always been a challenge and I have spent more time and effort on trying to get the old ones to work without dragging it is time to upgrade to a good, safe disc brake. Before we do anything else to the brakes I am going to understand what I need to replace to convert over to disc.
4. The rubber lines for the front brakes were horrible. We removed these and will replace them. The one rubber line connecting to the rear-end looked to be ok, so we are not replacing it for now.
5. Inspected the slicks and found they were still in good shape with a lot of tread on them. I replaced the front runners in 2018, and they look good as well.
6. Since we are going to redo the brakes we will re-route the right side line in front away from the transmission. It is currently in the stock position, and I understand the NHRA wants this moved away from the trans.
7. Installed a new safety Harness that is certified till June 2023.
8. In 2018 I installed an MSD distributor I got from a guy getting out of racing. I checked it and he had removed the springs. I went to my Dad's car and he runs a similar distributor. I checked his springs and installed a similar set to his. I need to learn more about these and how the affect the car. I also know when we go to run the car we need to dial in the timing. How much timing do most folks run? 36? 38?
9. Hooked up the transmission cooler I had bought before. This time I installed it with AN fittings and steel braided hose. No short cuts here. I did get a transmission temp gauge just to watch it. I have no idea what a normal temp should be in a race car.
10. Of course bringing in the car peaked the curiosity of the neighbors. My next door neighbor came over and talked for a while. He was actually the plant manager in the Chrysler transmission plant. He knew all about the old car and was tickled to share some stories. I had no idea he had this job in the past!

Of course the "To Do" list is pretty long, but if we get the brake situation solved before the weekend, there is a chance we may go do a test-n-tune session at Paradise Dragway in Calhoun Ga. on Saturday. If we do, I will try to get an updated weight on the car and share the latest numbers with everyone.

PS: I know the wiring is awful and we still have too many holes in the firewall. Both are pretty high up on the to do list. Also the car has rubber fuel lines, and this will also be fixed very soon, (maybe before the weekend). One more thing. Back in the day when I was trying to build this car I had access to a Plasma cutter and we used it EVERY where we thought we could loose some weight. That is why there is a hole in the fender well. You can also see the front bumper and supports is removed, as is the side windows. We cut all the support out of the hood, removed the springs, and cut eht structure out of the trunk and doors. In 2018 I replaced the radiator, water pump housing and water pump with aluminum. That is why I needed the trans cooler.

Check out Aerospace Components brake kits before buying.

Ok so here's what I ran back in 1990>

3300lbs@the line, '69 Cuda
440-6 block, 906's ported to around 260cfm with 2.14/1.81's
Team G dominator flange with an 850DP
CC. .650/.650 290@.050" SFT cam
2" f/wells, CR was under 10:1 on motor
_____________

Suspension:- 90/10 fr, L/bars-c/overs
chassis tied
4.88's/14x32's, 8" 4800stall verter.
Car ran only once NA and went 10.71@125 which is a 6.76 1/8th
thats 531fwhp on track, trapped@6700rpm
that may give you some idea of things of where you are now
as I had similar stuff to you, the big thing for me was that cam, it ticked over at 900rpm and pulled real hard top end.
tie your chassis together for starters, back off and adapt down to a good 950DP carb and go again see where you are, I think you need more cam than you have, thats a street not race cam you have in their.

Day - 2
Yesterday I actually found a Willwood Brake set for the front of my car in stock. It had black calipers, and I would have liked red, but I took it. Is supposed to deliver today. So here is what we did last night.
1. Removed all of the front drum brake assemblies. Cleaned up 50 years of grim and dirt.
2. Removed the valve covers, and of course broke both of them. We will need to adjust the valves later this week, so I went ahead and ordered new valve cover gaskets.
3. Took apart my MSD distributor. This is one I got from someone and I was not sure about the springs or the bushings. The colors seem to have faded badly, and so have my eyes. I have some bushings, I am guessing they are the black, blue and red. They actually measure roughly the following numbers. .371, .340, .308. Does anyone know what size is what color? What do you run in your set-up? We were assuming we should run the blue bushing (+21 degrees) and set the initial timing at 15 degrees for a total of 36 degree overall. Not sure what combo of springs to use. Any suggestions?
4. Removed the seat and ground off some sharper edges on the legs. My wife is having to repair some of the snaps on the seat cover and I installed a little extra padding.
5. Weighed the brake parts we removed. I will compare this to the new ones when they arrive to get an idea of how much weight we lost on the conversion. Parts we removed weighed 70lbs.

Tonight will be a big night of work if everything comes in as ordered. Still eye balling Friday night at Paradise, but Saturday morning is an option as well.

I would start with the black bushing 18* and the 2 blue springs [medium] that way can go to 18 initial +18 advance for 36. Then see how idles and advances. Then play with the springs for quicker advance if needed.

I use the black bushing and the weakest springs I can use on that later model MSD distributor, there are at least 3 different MSD model distributors that fit RB and B motors
I set the total timing at 34 degree BTDC and use what it ends up with at idle RPM as long as it doesn't kick back on the starter

Thanks for the advice. We will adjust the distributor in a similar fashion tomorrow. Seems like getting to the bushing is kind of tough, but we will get it.

Speaking of tough, every nut on this car is stuck! It took two of us way too long today just to get the old oil filter off. Ever notice how no one on Motor trend TV seems to have these issues?
So tonight we got the following done:
1. Installed the new front Wilwood brakes. They really look sweet.
2. Installed the new master cylinder.
3. Changed the oil. I am going with a K&N oil filter and Valvoline 10w-30 VR-1 Racing oil, along with some Lucas Oil stabilizer.
4. Set up the carb. Again, many things stuck. Removed the bowls and cleaned it up. Here are a few specifics about where we are going to start with the tune. Of course as mentioned before, this is a Holley Dominator 1050, and I know most everyone thinks it is too big for the car. But it is what I have for now, so this is my set-up:
Squirters are 31's. Back jets, 88 with extensions. Front jets 92. I adjusted the pump activation spring, as it was loose and turning the top nut did not change anything until I figured I had to hold the bottom to keep the whole thing from spinning. I have the whole carb set where I want to start with the tune, but again, I am always open to suggestions if something I am doing sounds way off.

I weighed the old brakes vs the new and it is 30 lbs off the front of the car. This is coupled with the fact that I have replaced the radiator, water pump and housing with aluminum, saving around another 30 lbs. That is 60 lbs off the front of the car. That does not include the weight the driver has lost in the past 6 months, getting back down below my old driving days weight by a few pounds.
Nothing yet on trying to make more power, but getting the carb and timing dialed in may help.

Tomorrow we still have a large list to tackle including:
1. hook up the brake lines
2. Bleed the brakes
3. hook up the proportion valve and set.
4. Adjust the valves
5. Install the valve covers and check for leaks.
6. Set up the distributor and set timing.
7. Re-Install the seat
8. Adjust new safety harness
9. Check MSD rev limit pill and set shift point on tac.
10. Make sure the tires are all full of air
11. Double check and adjust the accelerator cable
12. Final install of transmission cooler. We have run the lines, just not secured the cooler.
13. Cut and re-install exhaust turn out. This one got damaged as it was hanging too low and hooked the garage floor lip while backing up. I need this turn out to keep the exhaust off the shifter cable.

IF we get all that done tomorrow, we will load and head to Paradise Dragway on Friday for a good long test-n-tune session. If we do not make it, they are also open Saturday, or worst case would be next Friday.
IF the car runs ok and there are no issues, we will be at "Caffeine and Octane at the Drags" on 6/13 at Atlanta Motor Speedway. I would love to get in a few grudge races with some of those exotic drivers who think their $200K cars could smoke my Plymouth.

Looking at this picture, I would add subframe connectors (if you don't already have them) plus Caltracs to make the car stop twisting. My Car (67 Barracuda) used to twist up big time as well. Once I put Caltracs (the links, monos & shocks) on the car, it launched nice and even (both tires off the ground)....and it picked up a little bit of 60' and ET too.

If your only needing to pick up .15, you might try borrowing an alcohol carb from someone (one that is a known good working carb)

Alcohol has more impact on lower compression motors than high compression motors. On my wife's 11:1 motor is picked it up almost .3 and that was on a 390" small block with an out of the box Holley HP 950 alcohol carb from a 750 Barry Grant Silver Claw carb.

That may be the simplest, cheapest and quickest way to get you to 7.0 and if you can borrow one and try it first you can find out for sure without spending any money..

Set up the carb. Again, many things stuck. Removed the bowls and cleaned it up. Here are a few specifics about where we are going to start with the tune. Of course as mentioned before, this is a Holley Dominator 1050, and I know most everyone thinks it is too big for the car. But it is what I have for now, so this is my set-up:
Squirters are 31's. Back jets, 88 with extensions. Front jets 92. I adjusted the pump activation spring, as it was loose and turning the top nut did not change anything until I figured I had to hold the bottom to keep the whole thing from spinning. I have the whole carb set where I want to start with the tune, but again, I am always open to suggestions if something I am doing sounds way off.

Good starting point on the Jets but I would carry some extras with me dominators like fuel. Good luck