I wanted that Tork master for my 727 behind the slant6 I'm building for my D150 until I found out that my current 727 is a lock up version, nobody makes/builds a converter for a lockup besides "stock replacement".

I really hope so! It says fully balanced in the description... No picture of the front cover...

What do you mean?
If it doesn't have the external weight I'll be able to buy the B&M flex plate to resolve that issue?

"Fully balanced" doesn't mean it's external balanced. 764 is a common rebuilder's number for the factory 2801764 11" converter....normally, if the converter has external weights, the number will reflect that weight i.e. 764MW (medium weight) is for the 400/440 cast crank while the 764BW (big weight) is for the 360.

I'm betting the converter you receive will have no weights and you'll need a B&M 10236 flexplate to achieve external balance.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-10236

They didn't lie as their message says neutral balanced, but that is not what you need , if they said that will work with a 360 engine then they lied as all 360's use a weighted converter not neutral balance or you will need the scalloped flexplate or weight kit or else you will have a horrible vibration.

Anyone familiar with B&M converters?
I'm really leaning towards the Tork Master 2000...


So here are my options so far:

Pro King cr25l. $89

B&M 10416 Tork Master 2000. $260 plus $100 flex plate

Torco 764HD $177


After looking into it I've found that Torco is actually a really good company and make a quality converter... If this converter bolts to the stock flex plate I think it'll be the one...

As easy as it is to install a counter balanced flex plate I should be able just to weld a weight onto a specific spot on the converter right? It's not like it needs to be specifically ballance on a machine(that's the neutral balancing right?).

If the scalloped flex plate goes on a certain way then the weight should go on a specific side also? It should be that easy...?

A template comes with the weight kit. I think that's what you're asking.

I ran a B&M Holeshot 3000 several years ago and it was flawless. Obviously a little more stall than you're looking for. I had a 440/727 combo. My 440 would idle about 900rpm, the converter move the car under regular acceleration about 1200 rpm and behave normally after that. If I mashed the brake pedal from a stop and hit the gas pedal I could get it really close to 3000 rpm to launch. It was my first converter and I had no complaints.

I haven't even found the exact weight kit that goes to the 360. What I'm saying is I may not need to buy a weight kit because the previous converter that I still have has the external weight. I'm assuming I'd just be able to cut that one off and weld it to my new one using the old location as a template?

You said it won't bolt up but why? One of the bolts is off center and you need to be sure the flexplate and converter are lined up correctly.

He is saying won't bolt right up I Assume as he bought a neutral balanced converter for an internal balanced rotating assembly when he should have bought one with weights added for an externaly balanced motor.
As he has a weighted dampener and had a weighted converter prevoiusly since his motor is externaly balanced

The easy fix is the weighted B&M weighted and stronger faceplate as mentioned above.
I my self would go that route as he would void the warranty welding on the converter.
I personally like Dayco for low end stock converters.