Just acquired the car, looking to start addressing the issues it has. Biggest one involves the gauge cluster. Here's the rundown of issues:

• No gauge lights in any of the gauge pods or the switches, but have lights in the radio, PRNDL and HVAC control
• No functional gauges - fuel gauge barely creeps off of E, minimal input from oil pressure, nothing else
• Speedometer stuck at 25-30mph at rest, wildly optimistic while driving, no bounce but occasionally emits a light metallic "ping"

I do have idiot lights and a seat belt buzzer, and I have a functioning odometer that is turning appropriately for the vehicle's actual speed. This is my first B-body and it's been a minute since I've dived into a Mopar product. Anybody have any insights? I suspect the speedometer involves the gauge's inner workings, possibly a bearing. Everything else I'm not sure of.

If needed, can get video for further explanation.

Make sure the gauge cluster is grounded. I believe it grounds through the screws holding it to the dash.

A agree with Stumpy for starters and I'm guessing the clock spring in speedometer might be faulty and I'd replace or re-lube the speedometer cable. Also I'd pull the circuit board while in there and check all the sockets for good contact. The pinging I'm guessing is clock-spring. I see NOS Speedometers for those frequently on ebay if that turns out to be bad. IDK how much you'd be willing to spend though. They tend to be pricey.

There's 2 bulk connectors on the dash cluster, 1's kinda in the middle, and one's off to the right ( setting in seat facing cluster ).

It's possible 1) 1 or both have loosened enough to not connect. 2) the voltage reg has fried the gauges or it's not working. They (gauges) come out easily from the front. Take one, get a AA or AAA battery and use it to test your gauge. either post for either (+) or (-). Get some contact cleaner and spray the contacts from the front side (facing you). You can take needle nose pliers and work the connectors around and maybe Q-tip them if you can. I have a couple extra non-tach clusters if you would want or need one.

Red arrows pointing at wiring connectors Bill mentioned. Green arrow pointing at voltage limiter, just because I could.

Note this unit uses a flexible printed circuit board. Sometimes contact between that board and those bulk connectors can be a little iffy.

Awesome information, guys. Will update on my findings once I get the car into the shop and start inspecting parts this weekend.

just picked up off face book?

Super nice car Remy!

Here's a NOS Speedometer if it comes to that. Surprised it's not more $$$ especially this seller

https://www.ebay.com/itm/324477655550?

Yep, that's the one. Saw your pair in the thread. Could I ask a favor - photos of the "Charger Daytona" decals on side and trunk? I just ordered them from Phoenix Graphix and want to get a good idea of layout.

Nice car Remy-Z!

Well that's gotta be new - way back when I had to roll my own. Here's a couple bad pics to get ya started, can take a couple more. Is this one missing the lettering?

$130 for a speedo is freakin nuts. I don't know how many I picked up for $10. That one is also a 75 - in 76 then started labeleing with kilometers / hour on the inside.

It was missing the correct lettering. The ones on the fender/door looked handmade with faded red vinyl, the one on the trunk was cut out of holographic sticker material when I got the car.

I've been a bit slow to get to work on this car while I've been waiting on a VIN typo to get corrected on the title, but now that I've got the paperwork issue resolved, I'm gearing up to really dive in. I pulled the dash fascia off (requires the column to be dropped some? Wow, that's a new one!) but didn't see how the gauge cluster "face" comes off. Is it like a Mirada, with pins? I didn't see any screws/bolts and I still don't have my books in yet. I did manage to cram my paw in behind the dash and was rewarded with functioning gauge lights once I shook the passenger-side connecter in place enough to bust up some corrosion. Would like to get to testing gauges this weekend while I work on some paint corrections.

Yeah but it'll work. Gone are the days of getting a NOS part for that kind of money I'm afraid.

Nice one Remy-Z.

Now, if you need parts, such as speedos and such, PM me

Having to drop the steering column about an inch depends on which steering column. Ya can sneak the bezel past a column shift automatic, the floor shifted one ya gotta drop. The lense bezel is held in with white nylon push pins around the perimeter, they pull out toward you. Ya can get most of them with a small pliers. For the ones along the bottom that ya can't reach, give the bezel a sharp tug towards you. Put em back in with a nut driver.

Often the problem with the dash bulbs is a crappy connection between the bulb itself and the socket. With the gauges pulled out, real easy to get the bulbs out of the socket. I test them across a battery then give the socket contacts a bit of a bend to tighten their grip on the bulb. The leads on the bulb often need a tweak as well. Avoid the temptation to pop them out from the back as designed / intended. Ya'll end up pulling the carrier forward to get them back in.

[/quote]Yeah but it'll work. Gone are the days of getting a NOS part for that kind of money I'm afraid. [/quote]

Who said NOS?

My girl bought a jeep then bought some purple sparkly cut letters to go over the emblems and I gotta say it kinda works. May have to consider and really surprised Phoenix did it but gotta see about more color options especially for the stripes. Silver grey sample is minority. Forgot about this video: walk around of both of mine parked together. One touched up from a hit before I got it, other one not. Ya cant see it in the video but the lettering I had made matches the insert color perfectly.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL9md5C5XfCIZqJS6dA1zG6a-qByypZK5H

I have an idea: just getting darker letters is the easy way out. 5 minute fix. I'm gonna have them enlarge the dark ones, maybe reduce the light ones and do 2-tone letters. much cooler 10 minute fix.