Re: Lares Manual Steering Box
[Re: davenc]
#2924280
05/19/21 10:38 AM
05/19/21 10:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,831 Omaha Ne
TJP
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I Live Here
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Omaha Ne
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TJP,
Thanks for the detailed steps. I had considered at one time trying to adjust the box in car, but from what I understood at the time was you had two adjustments to do (using rotational torque) and the adjustment on the top of the box (the easy one) was last in the process. Not sure where I read this....thought it was in my old Motor manual but I didn't find it at a quick glance. Anyway the first adjustment seemed darn difficult to do in vehicle and I didn't have the means to measure the low values of torque called for.
Your procedure is clearly simpler. And I am guessing you have used this with success??
At this time, the LCA and tie rods are off the vehicle. I could put the pitman back on temporarily but there is no way to check the end result from a driveability standpoint. I have had the car for about 22 years and it was much better long ago. The wheel goes smoothly lock-to-lock, so I don't think the top adjuster is too tight or adjusted while off center. Perhaps something has just worn more and now it was too loose?
I suppose I could put the new parts in, and hook up to the box after your procedure. But if the box needs to come out, then I have to separate everything again (and I know a pickle fork is not the best for re-using parts). Do you think the impact of your procedure would be evident by just observing the pitman arm behavior? yes I have many times. And to clarify, their are actually 2 adjustments. The first sets the preload with new or used bearings on the worm gear which is attached to the column shaft. There should be ZERO endplay and with new bearing a slight preload. the second adjustment moves the sector (pitman gear) up or down depending on which way the adj. screw is turned. The worm has a slight crown to it which highest point is at the center. This is why the adjustment must be done while the box is midway between stops and the pitman arm removed or linkage disconnected. The rotational torque is nice when it's on the bench. When it's in the car, One can wiggle the steering shaft while feeling for movement on the pitman as you adjust preferably with a helper. you are going for minimal play with NO BINNDING as you pass the crown on the worm. NOTE: the further away from center on the worm the clearance increases.
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Re: Lares Manual Steering Box
[Re: krautrock]
#2928334
05/29/21 10:10 PM
05/29/21 10:10 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,295 Someplace you aren't
SomeCarGuy
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I Live Here
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Firm feel used to sell a rebuild kit for those. Not much in those boxes. I’d adjust it before I went and bought anything. Also not hard to do.
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Re: Lares Manual Steering Box
[Re: davenc]
#2930727
06/06/21 11:54 PM
06/06/21 11:54 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,295 Someplace you aren't
SomeCarGuy
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I Live Here
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If you pull it apart you can look at the bottom race. I’ve had them be pitted before. That and the lower bearing rusty due to water settling down there.
The pivots have busted welds commonly.
I want my fair share
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Re: Lares Manual Steering Box
[Re: SomeCarGuy]
#2930838
06/07/21 11:39 AM
06/07/21 11:39 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,831 Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,831
Omaha Ne
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If you pull it apart you can look at the bottom race. I’ve had them be pitted before. That and the lower bearing rusty due to water settling down there.
The pivots have busted welds commonly. on the welds. The pitting / bearing condition depends on a lot of variables. If your this far into it, take it the rest of the way apart and inspect them and the sector bushing. Referring to your earlier post How much play is expected with the mounting pivot on the lower control arms? My pivots had a fair amount; the bushings have now been replaced but there is still some definite play. Does the strut rod locate the LCA well enough that the pivot does not need to be tight? Obviously it needs to be able to freely rotate. You may have missed my response: And no, the LCA pivots should not be moving side to side as you turn the wheels. There was a post on that recently and the repair method generally used. Maybe someone will point you to it
.The Shafts are tapered and should "lock" into the K frame. It is the bushing that is supposed to twist as the suspension moves. The tightening of the shafts should not be done until the front suspension is fully loaded. Doing so before will induce rotational stress on the rubber bushing and lead to premature failure. I'm suspecting your issue may be with the the shafts not locking in and inducing the play.
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