My 1984 D 100 Has a 318

I have heard I can upgrade the distributor and eliminate the ballast resistor and the Orange box

Has anyone done this?

There are lots of aftermarket ignition systems out there (MDS seems to be popular here). Buy the entire system, not just a few parts of it, so everything is compatible.

I suppose you could always install a points distributor, I wouldn't consider that an "upgrade," but some here would.

What is wrong with the OEM system?

A multi-spark system or HEI conversion is all I'd consider. With multi-spark you can retard your initial timing ~ 4 degrees to reduce "negative torque" gain mebbe 2% better fuel economy. Faster starts, fuel economy is about it. The benefits of either are very small for the amount of work and money required.

www.designedtodrive.com

https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/MoparHEIConversion.htm

The scanman returnith. How u been?
I have a 360 on a test stand now and would love to pick up one of these if they weren't so pricey.
https://performancedistributors.com/product/dodge-small-block-dui-distributor/

I'd stick with the setup you already have or go multi spark.

Can it be done? Sure.
My 2 cents is there is not much if anything to be gained if your current system is working, unless you are going racing.

The ballast resistor gets alot of blame for things that it has nothing to do with.
As far as the distributor, I'd pull it, dismantle it, clean and lube it, replace the vac advance can and possibly the heavy advance spring with a lighter version reinstall and call it a day.
I just replaced the distributor in my 85 (slant 6) because that truck originally had lean burn, which i had to get rid of
Cuz it didn't run at all when I got it. Along with installing an ignition box very much like the one that you are wanting to get rid of. Runs and runs good for what it is. If yours was lean burn I'd agree with getting rid of that.

here is what I do on all my mopar cars/trucks with electronic IGN. for the last 40 yrs.

1) I get a points dist. (reman or in good shape used)

2) I get a pertronix points conversion, (never seen a reason to use the II or III units)

3) I get a pertronix 40,000 flamethrower coil (black or chrome)

4) I make up a #10 strand wire and make a jumper for the BR (or gut and hide it in the BR shell) this gives the conversion unit & coil a full 12 volts)

5) I get a set of the MrGasket mopar mech advance springs and intstall them with the conversion unit.

6) I mark the damper for 32* BTDC rev engine until full mech advance is all in and set it @ 32* BTDC (return to idle and make note of where it is at idling for future reference when tuning.)

I unplug/remove/hide ecu on inner fender.

now on my 440 truck with a lumpy whiplash cam I weld the slots up with rotor at full mech advance (locked out) I have it set @ 34* BTDC so it is 34* @ idle and 34* at 6200

the pertronix rev limit is 15,000 rpm so mine has always floated the valves before it runs out of spark. has always worked good in the 4x4 in deep water. when my 1994 unit tape/magnets let go I called them up to order a replacement and they sent me one free of charge. now that's good customer service after 20 yrs of using it.

0.02$