|
Mig Welding Guys-Running a bead
#288867
04/15/09 07:44 AM
04/15/09 07:44 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,503
NJ
440challenger
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,503
NJ
|
Many people i know weld differently , How do you guys run your "beads" Do you make circles? Zig zag? Half Moons? Or just stay in a straight line? 
|
|
|
Re: Mig Welding Guys-Running a bead
[Re: 440challenger]
#288868
04/15/09 07:58 AM
04/15/09 07:58 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,712
Sacramento, Ca
Darius
master
|
master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,712
Sacramento, Ca
|
Not that I am ANY kind of experienced or even good welder but I have had my best results using a "push-pull" kind of method, start puddle pull away, push it back.
Driving modern convenience in classic beauty
|
|
|
Re: Mig Welding Guys-Running a bead
[Re: Stanton]
#288873
04/15/09 01:04 PM
04/15/09 01:04 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,047
Arizona
68CoronetRT
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,047
Arizona
|
Quote:
Circles are for plugs welds.
Zig-zag or half moon would be for filling large gaps but these would be low strength compared to multiple straight passes.
The back and forth that gives the "stack of dimes" look is strictly for looks and adds no strength to the weld. It unnecessarily consumes more material.
You can't beat a plain good straight bead. The proper angle, wire feed, power setting and speed of movement will give the best weld every time.
If you're blowing holes in stuff then you may need thinner wire and less heat. A quick solution is to aim more at the heavier gauge of the two pieces (if there is one) and also move faster. I can easily weld .100 tube to 1/4" material on my highest setting if I aim more towards the 1/4" material and speed up my motion.
When referring to a straight bead are you pushing or pulling?
|
|
|
Re: Mig Welding Guys-Running a bead
[Re: 68CoronetRT]
#288874
04/15/09 02:37 PM
04/15/09 02:37 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,712
Sacramento, Ca
Darius
master
|
master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,712
Sacramento, Ca
|
I am thinking that the real bottom line is that a certain amount of coaching and knowledge of theory is required but the real thing is.....PRACTICE!
You will eventually develop your own style and technique that nets the results you are after.
Driving modern convenience in classic beauty
|
|
|
Re: Mig Welding Guys-Running a bead
[Re: Stanton]
#288876
04/15/09 05:26 PM
04/15/09 05:26 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 704
USA
rftroy
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 704
USA
|
Quote:
Circles are for plugs welds.
Zig-zag or half moon would be for filling large gaps but these would be low strength compared to multiple straight passes.
The back and forth that gives the "stack of dimes" look is strictly for looks and adds no strength to the weld. It unnecessarily consumes more material.
You can't beat a plain good straight bead. The proper angle, wire feed, power setting and speed of movement will give the best weld every time.
If you're blowing holes in stuff then you may need thinner wire and less heat. A quick solution is to aim more at the heavier gauge of the two pieces (if there is one) and also move faster. I can easily weld .100 tube to 1/4" material on my highest setting if I aim more towards the 1/4" material and speed up my motion.
Check this article:
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/article/articles8.html
At the bottom of the article are instructions on how to order the Miller Gas Metal Arc Welding handbook. It will answer all of these questions on technique.
I highly recommend it.
Here is the similar Lincoln manual, which is available to download free, but there is not much on technique.
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c4200.pdf
Here is a short summary article on good MIG welding, worth a read.
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/articles/articles86.html
I can't stress enough that the Miller manual is invaluable and the best I have seen on the subject. It's great to help anyone get started. I'm a Lincoln guy, but the Miller manual is more thorough.
Bob
AAR 4-speed 3.91, Tor-Red;
70 440 6 pack Roadrunner 4-speed 3.54, Plum Crazy;
68 Formula S conv 383 4-speed 3.23, Electric Blue;
69 Barracuda conv Slant 6 OD4 2.94, 71 B5 Blue;
78 Lil' Red Truck, Red;
70 Challenger S/E. 505 6 pack, Passon 5-speed, 3.55, B7 Blue
|
|
|
Re: Mig Welding Guys-Running a bead
[Re: Stanton]
#288879
04/16/09 08:09 AM
04/16/09 08:09 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,343
west palm beach, florida
modelmakerinc
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,343
west palm beach, florida
|
I have layed plenty of welds and I know I am no expert but while you are welding you can see the base metal "dissolve' and blend with the filler wire in the pool.
When I am in optimum position I can get very nice looking welds when in awkward positions they are awkward looking welds but they are penetrating and solid joints.
My point is an ugly weld isnt nessesarily a bad one.
here is one weld of my cage I am currently working on
Last edited by modelmakerinc; 04/16/09 08:11 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Mig Welding Guys-Running a bead
[Re: Stanton]
#288880
04/16/09 07:37 PM
04/16/09 07:37 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
Lefty
master
|
master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
|
Quote:
99% of the time you will "push"
Quote:
How long you halt for determines the depth of the weld
This is BS. The electrode should always be in the leading edge of the molten puddle for the best penetration. Stopping or backing up is just adding filler but does absolutely NOTHING to increase or improve penetration. The "stack of (pick your coin of choice) look" is for appearance only. Look at any structural mig weld and you will NEVER see this type of weld.
Is that just your opinion or can you back it up with some documentation?  If you stop while welding sheet metal it burns through immediately. That tells me your adding heat. On thicker than sheet metal welds I can see the back side of the metal show more evidence of heat (discoloration or ripples showing signs of molten metal) when I hesitate. Stalling in the puddle has to add more heat because of the longer time the puddle is molten right?  I do use the push method BTW...
|
|
|
Re: Mig Welding Guys-Running a bead
[Re: Stanton]
#288882
04/16/09 09:40 PM
04/16/09 09:40 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,872
Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
|
Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,872
Ontario, Canada
|
Quote:
My point is an ugly weld isnt nessesarily a bad one.
here is one weld of my cage I am currently working on
If I was doing this cage in position this is where I would have welded backwards or dragged the weld. But only from the higest point to a position where I could push down. To get a good , nice weld here I would have used a "mixed" gas, lower voltage and enough speed to be pushing the puddle down without it building into a drop behind or in front of my electrode. Half the battle with out of position welds is getting a comfortable position and being able to use a steady motion. Every weld I do I do once without pulling the trigger - to ensure I have a good position to do the weld. This cage weld would have been done in 4 parts.
|
|
|
Re: Mig Welding Guys-Running a bead
[Re: Fishmarket]
#288885
04/20/09 05:45 AM
04/20/09 05:45 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 409
runningman
super street
|
super street
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 409
|
Quote:
IMO reserve the "stack of dimes" effect for TIG welding, not MIG. I also believe that if you are starting and stopping for more penetration, you should probably turn up the amperage a tick and weld at a constant pace. Why add another variable to the mix and make things more difficult?
The purpose of pushing the bead when using gas MIG welding is to allow the argon/co2 mix to clean the surfaces as you are welding. Same thing with TIG, always have the torch angled in the direction of the weld. Many times I go ahead and use the torch with a moderate amperage and no filler metal and let the argon clean the surfaces before actually making my pass (TIG).
Okay, now I am confused. I thought the purpose of the Mig gas was to "shield" the weld puddle and allow it to cool with no impurities?
|
|
|
|
|
