At 580,000 km's on my 3500 work truck, I've done my fair share of U joints. I didn't get good life out of SKF's or Napa's in that truck. I've gotten the most service life out of Dana/Spicer/Mopar U joints. It's all I will buy now for my 3500 and my SRT-10 ram.
Watch this guy's entire series on U-joints, I learned that there is way more to installation than I learned from Chiltons manuals over the years. I started saving snap rings so when I change a Ujoint, I can do the dial indicator test to get the run out to a minimum, it really makes a big difference in the drivelines smoothness and U joint life.
At 580,000 km's on my 3500 work truck, I've done my fair share of U joints. I didn't get good life out of SKF's or Napa's in that truck. I've gotten the most service life out of Dana/Spicer/Mopar U joints. It's all I will buy now for my 3500 and my SRT-10 ram.
Watch this guy's entire series on U-joints, I learned that there is way more to installation than I learned from Chiltons manuals over the years. I started saving snap rings so when I change a Ujoint, I can do the dial indicator test to get the run out to a minimum, it really makes a big difference in the drivelines smoothness and U joint life.
Nice!!!! You opened a can of worms I did not want to get into, but the install is everything. I save snaps and even thin them a little If I have to to get the run out perfect. Balancing is overrated, run out and a free moving joint after install is the big ticket.
Re: What brand u-joint?
[Re: GMP440]
#2887043 02/12/2105:05 AM02/12/2105:05 AM
What auto parts stores sell the spicer joint? I need two for my van
Get the part # you need then source them out. Spicer used to have a site where all you did was put in your vehicle info and all the u joints on it would come up. It is no longer up and now you have to sort threw the maze of stuff to find what you are looking for.
Oh, And how do you get links to work here? link didn't work in previous post. Looked for a place to post this but found nothing. I'm on plenty of forums but this one is the only one that asks me "prevent this page from creating additional dialogs" Let me try again maybe i can answer my own question.
Curious why they wouldn't have a zerk fitting (the spicer life)? Does that weaken the joint?
Absolutely! In fact it is strongly suggested that if a u-joint has a fitting in between the caps, it needs to be positioned so that when under load with the driveshaft, the fitting needs to be under compression. Otherwise, the fitting hole is a prime location for a crack to start if the driveshaft tries to spread the u-joint caps because of the orientation. The cross drilling inside also weakens it over a solid with grease only in the caps.
Curious why they wouldn't have a zerk fitting (the spicer life)? Does that weaken the joint?
Absolutely! In fact it is strongly suggested that if a u-joint has a fitting in between the caps, it needs to be positioned so that when under load with the driveshaft, the fitting needs to be under compression. Otherwise, the fitting hole is a prime location for a crack to start if the driveshaft tries to spread the u-joint caps because of the orientation. The cross drilling inside also weakens it over a solid with grease only in the caps.
I've broken those types oriented correctly and not installed correctly before I bought those cars
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Curious why they wouldn't have a zerk fitting (the spicer life)? Does that weaken the joint?
Absolutely! In fact it is strongly suggested that if a u-joint has a fitting in between the caps, it needs to be positioned so that when under load with the driveshaft, the fitting needs to be under compression. Otherwise, the fitting hole is a prime location for a crack to start if the driveshaft tries to spread the u-joint caps because of the orientation. The cross drilling inside also weakens it over a solid with grease only in the caps.
Okay, figured there must be good reason. Makes sense.
are the spicers all still made in the U.S.? It's hard to trust Big corporations anymore. Most will source some or all of their product from asia to make more profit. A few years ago I bought Timken wheel bearings for a Malibu. The boxes looked right but the bearings were obvious generic bearings repackaged by Timken. They were probably the lowest bidder oem bearings. I could have spent half the money and bought the same bearing in a store brand box or an EBAY white box.
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
are the spicers all still made in the U.S.? It's hard to trust Big corporations anymore. Most will source some or all of their product from asia to make more profit. A few years ago I bought Timken wheel bearings for a Malibu. The boxes looked right but the bearings were obvious generic bearings repackaged by Timken. They were probably the lowest bidder oem bearings. I could have spent half the money and bought the same bearing in a store brand box or an EBAY white box.
I just got a pair of the 5-811x last week, made in usa.
I just went to Rockauto website and it says 2 sizes of Spicer for a 70 Charger 440. What size is correct for a 440 with Dana?
Same problem here. I too am ready to order from Rockauto. Been researching on various forums, but still don't know if I need the small 7260 or large 7290 (Spicer 5789X or 5811X). I have a 1971 Barracuda 318/904 with 8 3/4. Do the codes on the broadcast sheet provide a definite answer?
I just went to Rockauto website and it says 2 sizes of Spicer for a 70 Charger 440. What size is correct for a 440 with Dana?
Same problem here. I too am ready to order from Rockauto. Been researching on various forums, but still don't know if I need the small 7260 or large 7290 (Spicer 5789X or 5811X). I have a 1971 Barracuda 318/904 with 8 3/4. Do the codes on the broadcast sheet provide a definite answer?
Thanks, David
You should have the smaller 7260 joint unless something has been swapped around
Let me try again maybe i can answer my own question.
