Same here.

In my 20's I went from 3.23's to 4.56's convinced that my solid cammed SB 'Cuda would be faster. It ran exactly the same at the dragstrip.

I guess that sort of backs up my combo>
stock 1968 440-6pk bottom end 9.5>9.8:1
260cfm 906's, .650" sft cam, 850DP on a Team G
530+fwhp@6600 trap
125mph in 3300lbs car.

My guess is L2355F

Here’s is a Chrysler Engineering dyno test from January 1968 on a GTX/RT 440 4 bbl, ran with full exhaust, air cleaner, vacuum advance, heated intake with riser open, using the production high performance camshaft, AVS carb.

I think some of the confusion on horsepower produced is due to SAE standards back in the day.
One rating is with accessories and exhaust, one without.

What are they talking about with the “V19” heads?

It says 10.2 compression. Is that a generic description....... or were the heads “adjusted” to provide an actual 10.2cr?

Looks like race gas?

Dont’t know what the reference is to V19 heads but all the dyno runs I have mention the same head.

My understanding is the motors were built in the Engine Room to factory specs as listed in the SAE reports.

As for fuel, several different engine tests that I have seen mention Pure Race. Puzzling because Sunoco 260 was good enough for a 12.5 to 1 Race Hemi at least up until the early 70’s.

My guess Pure was a known supplier and had the contract to supply fuel in bulk to the tanks in H.P.

That's such a cool find. Thanks for sharing that Transman.

this is pretty cool, but i can't read the numbers. can anyone tell me the numbers ? like power and what rpm?

Approx. 445 lbs. ft. and 335 hp NET - full exhaust, air cleaner on, 5 degrees initial production distributor with manifold heat, alternator and fan attached and being driven.

This isn’t a flogged engine but a standard production engine. No tricks.

does the chart say at what rpm the peaks occured?

Here is the lower portion of the chart.

The first 440 build I ever did 23 years ago, I walked into a local machine shop with a disassembled long block and a magazine article for a hi po 440 build, probably similar to the ones being talked about here. upper 9's to 1, big valves, some porting, MP cam etc.
The machine shop took a pen and x'd out everything they said would be a disaster in a 4x4 truck, I spent quite a bit of cash, took their advice, and basically ended up with a stock 8:1 motor .030 bigger than I took apart. Should of gone elsewhere, that shop is long out of business now.

thanks for this! looks like peak power rpm numbers coincide with advertised peak rpm numbers. actually i thought the true hp number might have been a little less than 335hp (maybe 325), but still very good info that supports reality. exhaust pressure numbers are very helpful. good stuff!

i got back into the mopar stuff in 1985 after a 10yr lull. went thru about the same thing in 1985. not sure anything has gotten better.

That skill of selecting a combination comes from racing/dyno work.

So the question should be when you walk in to a machine shop and ask them for advice on selecting a package - how much successful racing have they done and do they have a dyno. No racing experience or dyno, leave unless you know what you want done and don’t allow them to give you anything you didn’t ask for.

Enlarge the graphs and keep reading, there is a lot of good info on the charts. All for free, thanks to Ma Mopar

One of the first motors I built and dyno tune on a engine dyno was a 1962 413 M.W. motor for one of Boyd Coddington cars he had sold to one of his customers.
It was a original 1962 Dodge dart M.W. car that had a really bad worn out made up cross ram motor with a standard 413 C body short block that was already .060 over size with a lot of taper and really thin cylinder walls after sonic testing it
I found a 413 truck block and had it bore to 4.250 and had Ross make a set of low compression pistons so I ended up with 9.5 to 1 compression ratio. I had the original M.W. heads worked on replacing all the seats, guides and valves, the seat were really sunk I had Comp Cams make me a custom grind solid flat tappet cam and freshen the carbs and put the factory jetting in the carbs.
That motor ended up making 499 HP after a lot of testing and experimenting with valve lash, ignition timing and spark plug gap and heat range. I was really happy with those results
We made 32 pulls before changing the oil to Mobil 1 synthetic and lost 30 HP due to the intake gaskets weeping through them oil into the combustion chambers a little with the Valvoline straight 30 Wt. oil. I made one pull with the Mobil 1 and oiled all eight spark plugs
I fixed it by doubling up the intake gaskets and wasn't able to put it back on the dyno to find out how much difference that made

wasote=Transman]

That skill of selecting a combination comes from racing/dyno work.

So the question should be when you walk in to a machine shop and ask them for advice on selecting a package - how much successful racing have they done and do they have a dyno. No racing experience or dyno, leave unless you know what you want done and don’t allow them to give you anything you didn’t ask for. [/quote]
I think back then, compression seemed to be a dirty word. Locally the choice of machine work had a lot of rumor in it and people told me the racer shops were just good at blowing stuff up or the place I went to that was known as a place to get accurate machine work done. Their machine was good, they just didnt want to venture off of stock specs. They said if I went with 6 pack pistons it would ping on pump gas, they freaked out when I ported the heads with the mp template, and told me the heads would crack and leak. They wouldnt put 2.14 valves in , said the valves would hit the pistons. In the end the motor went together and still runs today, was just never at the potential it could have been. Im playing with the idea of putting Estreet heads on it and dropping 10cc off the chambers.

I think back then, compression seemed to be a dirty word. Locally the choice of machine work had a lot of rumor in it and people told me the racer shops were just good at blowing stuff up or the place I went to that was known as a place to get accurate machine work done. Their machine was good, they just didnt want to venture off of stock specs. They said if I went with 6 pack pistons it would ping on pump gas, they freaked out when I ported the heads with the mp template, and told me the heads would crack and leak. They wouldnt put 2.14 valves in , said the valves would hit the pistons. In the end the motor went together and still runs today, was just never at the potential it could have been. Im playing with the idea of putting Estreet heads on it and dropping 10cc off the chambers. [/quote]

Sorry, I made it sound easier than it is - it depends on locality, etc. Here in my area going back the last 50 + years we had an abundance of good shops and of course some not so good but those were few. And we had a lot of successful racers in the area so we all fed the good machine shops and didn’t have to ask any questions.

Being where you are I would imagine you don’t have many shops to choose from so that makes things much more difficult for you.

Used to be a guy that would come across the border from Windsor with his car, switched the motor for a cleaned up junk yard motor and he would leave his motor to be built. Would come back another day and do the switch again. All because he got stung several times in Windsor.

I dynod my bone stock 74' 440 with stock exhaust manifolds and pipes. The true compression was 7.8-1. It made a stump pulling 294hp and 408 ftlbs.