Here is another idea just so you will have it as an option.

On my Demon, I gutted the distribution block then I sawed off the bottom half of the distribution block and then tapped the bore for the spool to 1/8" pipe and plugged it with a pipe plug. That way you can put the line lock in the front line coming directly from the master (which is easier) and then take it down to the dist block. Then you can keep the dist block, its stock mounting location and the front brake lines can remain in stock location and unmodified. For the rear I simply left evverything right where it was and used a little brass brake line coupler (but you may have to change one of the nuts and reflare the line). This effetively divides the front and back systems and deletes the spool valve and o-rings (differential pressure switch).

you guys have me confused. mine is installed EXACTLY per hurst's instructions- after the block. one front brake line at the block is plugged, the other is teed to the front calipers and the line loc. i'll find out if it slips this weekend. it does push the fronts on the street, but i figured it's getting too much traction on dry pavement for the front brakes to hold. it never consciously occurred to me that the piston in the distribution block may be releasing some of the front line pressure. we'll see.

Your installation is super nice. I see that you changed the MC outlet routing making it more logical and I assume that could only be done if both outlets had the same output. Is this correct???

I understand your safety explanation and see that it could be considered an item of failure. However, I would think the probably of such an occurrance would be astronomical. But the rule is the rule so we should build accordingly. Thank you for bearing with such a hardheaded person and providing your insight.

I put mine in the brake line to the rear brakes, turn it on and no brake to the rears and the fronts work just fine.

That makes sence, the only drawback I see is that you have to keep the brake pedal depressed with your left foot and work the throttle with your right. To most it probably wouldn't matter.

I changed my ports because Strange said that one port is timed a little differently than the other. In other words it pressurizes/hits a little sooner. But there is no difference in the pressure.

I do not reccomend you do this unless you know your brake system very good.. Most masters are set up for disc/drum systems and the rear port displaces a greater volume and therefore should go to the front brakes. In my case I have the same brake caliper on all 4 wheels. So the front and back brakes need the same volume. That makes the front port VS the rear port location irrelevent.

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I put mine in the brake line to the rear brakes, turn it on and no brake to the rears and the fronts work just fine.


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""that seems like an excellent idea.""

That is an excellent idea and it is perfectly legal. But please use a "dead man switch" to activate the line lock. That will insure the rear brakes work properly just before the sand trap!!! LOL

That is how mine would be except I bought the multi port line lock already. I would do anything to improve the weight bias of my car..........So, I was going to mount that blocking line lock in the rear line at the rear of the car.

Personally I prefer the line lock in the rear brakes and don't know why NHRA banned them being there until recently (I think they're legal now). I use the line lock to keep pressure from going to the rear brakes so I can control what the car does during a burnout. I just like having my foot on the brake.

dragrcr97, I like the Hurst line lock you show in the pictures. The installation looks very clean. This is much cleaner than running lines up and down the firewall to plumb in the line lock. Other than the messy look, there are too many joints and connections to possibly leak.

I think safety at the starting line area is the reason for the NHRA rule, and the manufactures installation instructions have to do with safety and function. They don’t want some one hurt, but they also want the valve to perform correctly.

I am still working on a practical plan, and still retain the differential pressure switch. I am also going to figure out

Bluecuda413, thanks for doing some research on why the switch is there. I am still working on a practical plan to simplify the plumbing and still retain the differential pressure switch. I have a couple of ideas that might work and keep the number of connections at a minimum. I will work on it this week end. If I come up with something, I will post a sketch.

I am also going to figure out the pressure change due to the movement of the spool. I need to get a replacement differential pressure switch, so I am going to stop into Inline Tube next week when I got to Detroit on business. I will either get the spool travel from them, or disassemble the new differential pressure switch and measure. I should be able to calculate the pressure change in the front system based on this information. This might be interesting information.

Thanks,

John

I came up with a better plan on the brakeline plumbing, to retain the differential pressure switch, mounted before the line lock solenoid. I made a mounting plate attached to the MC bolt.

I moved the differential pressure switch onto the firewall, next to the master cylinder. The front port can then go to the line lock, and then down to the brakes. I just used 12 ga. wire to mock-up the brake line routings.

Now, I can finish the brake lines as soon as my new line lock arrives.

John