I can't find this with searches.
The 4 bolts that attach the trans to the bellhousing.
Even just the spacing is fine, without the reference to the pilot bearing retainer hole.

Thanks!

Jim I'll be down in the shop first thing in the morning and I will post the measurements then. I have one on the bench I just rebuilt.

Gus

The old Mopar Performance Chassis manual might have the bolt pattern in it. I know I've seen the pattern before.

Found this on google

I have that book, and it does show the bolt holes, but not the dimensions. Just the engine to bellhousing dimensions.

My Google searches didn't find that one.

That looks useful, 5.285" top spacing (side-side), and 7.115" bottom spacing.
Surprised the old engineers didn't make them fractions of an inch, like almost everything else back then.
i.e. 5.281 = 5-9/32 and 7.125 = 7-1/8 I have seen them document just 2 decimal points, since manufacturing tolerances are used;
i.e. 5.28" and 7.13"

Well that certainly is better than my tape measurements I have. The diagram posted above is pretty much what I measured.

Gus

There is an engineering diagram floating around my shop. It was supposedly supplied by someone from Chrysler to Lakewood back in the day. Origin long forgotten on my end. If it pops up while we are cleaning shop to move I will post it up.

The original dimensions most likely were fractional but sometimes the engineers used a random number for some unknown reason. Which part are you trying to build? The bellhousing side has to be much more precise than the transmission side of things.

I am just making provisions on an engine run stand for use of a bellhousing and flywheel. Engine supported by the transmission side of the bellhousing.
The primary method of support on this stand is an engine midplate and racing flywheel (GM style) used on chassis cars/dragsters.

The depth of the bellhousing is the most important for this, to make sure the supports have a place to sit.
There will be an area >13" wide for the supports; I am not drilling the holes for the supports until an engine with the bellhousing is brought in.

Yeah something like that will probably need a sliding support depending on how universal you want to make the stand. The support arms can be slotted to be more universal unless you are designing it for a specific application.

Trying to do the welding etc before painting everything.

I would use a heim joint and some threaded rod with an "L" or 90 deg bracket on the end with a provision (ie turn buckle) to take up the slack. There are so many variances on this stuff that you need very finite adjustment. Think dyno cart. It might be best to find a case and bearing retainer (or complete transmission) and just transfer punch the pattern over. That is what I ended up doing for both my Lenco and Gf5r projects.

This is what I am using for the front/side engine mount supports, adjustable.
Plus the stand has various brackets to position the bottom heim joints forward and sideways.

That is exactly what I had in mind Jim. Looks great!