I think it's time to step up to a solid roller. 12.5:1 511 with Indy tunnel ram and small 750's(1.325 venturi), E max wedge heads flowing 354@.700, 727 with 8" 5500 stall, 410 gear, 28" tire and 3400 race weight. No power steering or brakes, so think of it as a race car although primarily driven on the street. Biggest concern is E.T. and longevity. Looking for peak power around the 6500rpm mark, so how do i get there? Current cam is a SFT 270@50/.633"@valve on 110. Prefer 108 lobe sep because of heavy car. Looking at the graph it currently peaks hp at 6000 and 4500 torque with this flat tappet. All opinions welcomed. What would you pick
3 cams i'm currently looking at.
269/275-688/645-108 190*@.200
274/280-704/641-108 193*@.200
270/278-724/664-110 196*@.200

Go to buyracingparts.com and fill out a cam spec sheet. Scott Brown will get back to you with a custom grind recommendation. You will not be disappointed.

Mike Jones
Jones Cam Designs
Denver, NC
jonescams@bellsouth.net
http://www.jonescams.com

The cam king, I am super happy with the camshaft he designed for my 540 mopar.

Had him spec a cam for me for a W5 motor years ago. Took out a cam Dwayne specced, installed a SB cam. It was on a 112. I told him i doubted a wide cam( he uses them lots) would make my car faster. It didnt, knocked almost a tenth and a half out of it. Was a well sorted combo.
Killed the 60 foot.

You know what I have ran for years that most said was too big and with your combo I'd go with around a .700-.720 lift and around 275-280 duration @ .050 on a 108 lsa being it's not light.......

Scott is stuck on that 112 lobe sep for everything seems like. I had one on his 112's in my small block, couldn't get out of it's own way. I had one spec'd by Jones for my 511 with single dominator and he spec'd 112 lobe sep as well.

my 2cents, looks like a bunch of money with very little gain. If I was picking one of those it would at least be the one at 274*....most of the 5000-up stuff should be in the 280's (at least) and lobe seps of 106-108. Unless you have some of the stuff laying around (springs, shims,cam,lifters,pushrodspotentialy) your going to be looking at around a grand$

I'm expecting a $2000 investment.

I don't know if you'll get 2 grand worth of improvement the way I see it. My guess would be a couple of tenths, best. If I recall you were already at 133-134 in the quarter. Should be solid 9.80's. Tough for me to think a roller in the 270's would do much better. Jam the biggest Howards solid in there and see what happens for around 300 bucks. Check for coil bind that Howards is .667 lift.

I agree. My 550 made 926 hp with 440-1 heads, single TB and alky. Track numbers backed the dyno #s up

I'm curious to your cam specs if you don't mind.

How much room do you have to work with? Installed height of your heads? Valve drop depth? Once you know how much room you have to work with then you can look at different lobes. What rocker arms do you have? Do you have room for 7/16 pushrods or just 3/8?

I would use the smallest, the first one, based on similar specs on my old pump gas Duster cam, that rascal would pull hard all the way to 7800 RPM in 2nd gear before I got scared and shifted it I had a VDO play back tach in the car and it would not slow down on the acceleration rate on that tach
I would install it from 2 to 5 degrees advanced in the intake lobe centers and see how you like that rascals performance

I'm currently at .119/.170 v/p clearance with my FT cam which has a lobe lift of .403 on intake giving me .645 lift with a 1.6 rocker. Minus .018 lash for a lift of .627 at the valve currently. 3/8 pushrod is close. Would have to clearance for anything larger. What's the smallest safe clearance on intake valve to piston? Looks like my wish of .700 lift is totally out of the picture. Maybe .660 lift max at valve?

The first one is an old Harold Brookshire cam. I'm still a bit gun shy with the over camming deal. Had to add some compression to get these heads to work right with this cam. i'm still hesitant to jump at a 275 cam. If you remember some have said this E max wedge head is junk. Dwayne told me the bowl area is excessively large and this makes me believe the air slows when it gets to the bowl area allowing fuel to drop out of suspension before reaching the cylinder in a good mix. So to me more compression less duration makes them work, but thats just my theory. Really do like the looks of that cam, but although hesitant, a 275@50 cam is not totally out of question. Looking for all opinions to attack from all angles here. Thanks guys

You can't figure it out that way. You need to know lift at TDC and valve drop at TDC. Total lift doesn't matter since the piston is way down the hole when the valve is at peak lift. You only need to worry about the lift when the piston is at or near TDC.

Ok, maybe i'm wrong here, but the .119" number was using clay to get that number.

You might check with a few different cam guys just to see how similar or different the recommendations are. My Dad and I just had Comp spec a different cam for my 10:1 418" from the new "low shock" line of lobes they have. The specs they recommended are pretty much the same as what Dom recommended but more lift. I am just looking into options to go over 7000RPM, I need to re gear or RPM up lol.

I am with Cab, the first( smallest cam)

The small lift difference is unlikely( as is generally always the case) to make much,if any difference in how the car runs

Right. I don't know why most over look the @.200 number. I think it means something too. The first cam has a 190*@.200, my SFT has a 185*@.200. the 269 has more lift and on a 108. The next cam is Dom's cam, it looks good too.