That IS where my primary t-slot exposure is... and the secondaries are closed, because otherwise it idles too fast with the 4x .100" holes and the "grab whatever fits" PCV valve I'm running Fortunately I have a 4-speed and the idle is 1200+ anyway, so I don't have to worry about an in-gear drop.

I found an old Speedtalk thread (https://www.speed-talk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2767) where the guy didn't like holes in the blades because that airflow comes past the boosters and tends to start them too early. Wonder if that's part of my problem... anyway he recommended bypass air without holes. Dom absolutely is against any bypass as you can see, above. Some others recommend turning off the secondary idle screws completely and just dealing with the primary idle circuit!

To have even more things to change, as if I wasn't up to my ass in alligators already, I ordered some non-drilled blades and a Fram FV178

I agree, I'm posting on RFS too. But it's hard to argue with the Innovate results That engine has a 9" idle vacuum.
And that was my biggest problem that started all this - idles fine, runs pig-rich at cruise. I went all the way down to a .041 TSR and it helped a lot, but also created a super-lean flat spot...

If I tried their approach, I would want a bit more idle fuel (doubt my combo would even run when off the mains with a .020 IFR!)

So rather than return to what I know didn't work (as-delivered), I'm thinking of something like this (along the unconventional lines of the article):

Original Current Proposed
IFR .033 .031 .029 - this is probably where I should have STARTED leaning, .031 helped but wasn't near enough
IAB .070 .082 .063
TSR .081 .041 .074 - even with .041 it's not right, so go back to a normal size
MAB .030 .082 .085 - want to delay the mains
MJ 79/88 75/86 75/86
PV 5.5" 9.5" 9.5" - cruise vac 15"
PVCR .059, will change last, probably .070 or so with the smaller PMJ

This old thread: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthread...48706/holley-rich-at-light-throttle.html
points out that it'll never be right when cruising on the t-slots, because the idle vacuum is less than the cruise vacuum... but I think I can get closer than it is.

What is most important to me is to drive at 60 mph without being overrich, also 25-30 mph - because that's where the car spends most of its time on the 8 mile drive to town, then cruising on the street.
Rough idle is a given with a 272 @.050 cam, and I can live with a little flat spot at small throttle settings.

I would suggest saving the 6 bucks and spending the money on the only tuneable PCV valve out there. And that’s the ME Wagner PCV valve. I have no idea of what the flow rates are of that Fram part number, but whatever it is, the absolute improbability of it being correct for a combination like yours is astronomical. I doubt Fram has anyone developing a PCV valve for applications like this because because any fixed orifice PCV valve that would work for you would never work for me. So they would literally be developing a part number to sell what?? maybe, maybe 5 of them for the entire country and it may work correctly on one application.

I can’t stress the importance of not only using a PCV valve but on using a tunable one. And Wagner makes the only one.

With your manifold vacuum at idle you can still use it in dual mode and it will change the tune up.

Just my .02 cents, but I use one and use one on any engine I do that has much more than a pretty mild street cam in it.

Worth every penny.

Well, if you are giving out Wagner PCV valves...I'll take one. However, spending $6.00 worked for me and no need to spend $130 for a PCV valve.