Hey, all.

I have a 360 & 440 that I want to get running next spring, if not sooner with the 440. Both engines are in vehicles.

So what have you guys found to be the best cylinder/rings lubricant for loosening up non-running engines? A few squirts of oil or a few sprays of something like WD-40? Something else?

The R/T will be in my garage within the week so I can keep treating it throughout the winter, but the 360 (pickup truck) will most likely get one dosage and then sit until next spring.

Sorry to say, but I don't know if either engine is stuck. At least the 440 was running seven years ago but no idea on the status of the 360.

Appreciate hearing your thoughts.

Scott

I was told many years ago the trans fluid was a good lube for storage.

i have used transmission fluid as well as diesel fuel [or a mix of both] to squirt into spark plug holes [several times] on engines i don't know anything about a few days prior to seeing if they are free.
they smoke like crazy on start up, but that seems to have prevented breaking any rings.
just my experience. your mileage will vary.

Marvel Mystery Oil.

This is the best stuff hands down

Gus

I just did this on a motor sitting for 31 years. Pulled the spark plugs and shot a liberal amount of MMO in each cylinder, let is sit for a week, then turn it over with a wrench.

If they've already been sitting for years without running don't bother doing anything to them until you're ready to something to them. You'll probably want to take the plugs out or do that other stuff when it's time anyway.

A breaker bar on the crank bolt with the plugs out will tell ya pretty fast how stuck it is. If it's been sitting for a while, I'd suggest some lube regardless of how stiff it is. General thought being no such thing as too much lubrication. I also think putting something in there is more important than exactly what you use. I've had good results with ATF and I like to pour some down the intake to at least dampen the valves.

After making sure it's at least free, my biggest thing is to pre lube the engine. As in yank the distributor, put the priming rod in and run the oil pump before trying to light it off.

& when you preoil get #6 & #8 TDC compression on a (big block) and 20 degrees ATDC #6 compression (use the timing tab as a ruler) & 90 degrees (1/4 turn) BTDC #1 compression on a (Small Block). SB may have partial slits in the dampener at each quarter turn to help you.

Thanks, guys. Now that it was brought up, I remember hearing about tranny fluid once upon a time. Think I will give the MMO a try though.

Hadn't thought about the valve train yet. Probably a good idea to pull the valve covers for a little inspection & lube.

RapidRobert, please explain what you said again. Are you saying to prime the engines at different points of the four stroke cycle?

Yes, on each eng type you preoil with the hex shaft at 2 different points. one "point" lubes one sides valvetrain & the other point lubes the other side valve train cuz they ain't being fed continuously, only when everything lines up at those 2 points

I did not know that. Thanks.