I've been using Isky Red Zone solid roller lifters and have been very happy. Mine are the older ones (bought in 2006) w/ needle bearings, but have been flawless for years. They now have them w/ solid bushings...which is what I'll use next. Actually they can retrofit my current lifters to use bushings.

As for the not for street use comment, I don't believe that. My KB block doesn't have oiling to the lifters...the lifters only get splash and drainback oiling. Some would say that won't work on the street either. Been like that since 2006 and no problems at all.

I'm not looking to start an arguement or anything BUT ...

With regards to roller wheels with roller bearings versus bushings:

Bronze has been around since, well, "the bronze age" Its a known fact that it is probably the best bushing material on the planet. BUT it took years before any company decided to use it in a roller lifter. Why is that? Is it feasible that no engineer ever considered it until some time within the last 20 years?!?! I can't imagine there have been any advancements in the metallurgy of bronze that would have made it any better. So what changed, I'd really like to know

With that said, I've always pondered the beating those rollers must take from the amount of "lash". Seems to me you'd want something really tough in there - like steel bearings as opposed to softer bronze. And then there's the lubricating issue. The rollers have space between them to retain oil. A bronze bushing does not. And in case you're considering it, this is NOT a place you'd want to use sintered bronze.

So ponder these thoughts when you have nothing better to do. I'd be interested in hearing valid comments pertaining to the how and why.

Just did a little research on the bushed lifters. Isky says they've developed a proprietary bushing material since that has always been an issue having the bushing stand up to the abuse.
Another company uses different material depending on the spring pressures that will be used.
Some claim they'll last longer than needle bearing lifters.

The consensus is that bushed lifters will give you more warning when they are about to fail by opening up the lash. Whereas the needle bearing lifters are more prone to fail w/o warning.
Also the bushed lifter doesn't send shrapnel throughout the engine when it does fail.

B/c of the need for the oil to be in the bushing, I'm thinking my engine will be better off w/ needle bearing lifters since it doesn't feed pressurized oil to the lifters.
There are a good bit of guys running the bushed lifters on Drag Week apparently though.

Stanton...this info isn't meant to start an argument, just a discussion. I'm no metallurgist and I've never used these lifters before. Everything I've heard about the bushed lifters is good, but I have no firsthand experience w/ them.

Isky Red Zone Extreme bushed rollers in mine, .730" net lift, 700lbs open,......lash never changes. Idling at 1100 - 1200 for oil splash.

Oil is changed 2x per year, depending on the cars use; clean oil is supposed to be the mail thing to stay on top of with a bushed lifter. I have another near new set of the Isky Red Zones with needle rollers with little dyno use only - I might send them to Isky for conversion, I wonder if there is a contact for this, hmmm.

So far, so good

I asked them about converting mine from needle bearings to bushings a couple years ago and they said no problem. Costs around $700 IIRC.

Like you mentioned, if you only have splash oiling then needle bearings are probably better than bushed, as I understand



How many street miles are people putting on these? Since August I have about 2800 miles on Comp 96829B, so far so good

More food for thought.......

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2427893/1.html

I had an issue like that years ago where there was plenty of confusion at the mfg about what got shipped vs. what was in the marketing material. Bottom line was that you needed to know their catalog better than the sales guy in order to get the correct parts. The sales guy on the phone just sent the "normal" parts regardless of what you asked for. If you knew the secret code words then you were able to order the parts that had the pin oiling and the band in the correct location and all of that. I eventually switched my dyno engines over to the AMC lifters from Comp and they worked. Of course that isn't without problems since Comp doesn't actually have a part number for AMC lifters with Mopar tie bars. Once again, you have to know what works and then walk the sales guy thru the ordering process.

So the AMC are mechanical not hydraulic, correct?

Comp Cams web site doesn't even list a mechanical roller lifter for AMC.

The AMC solid roller lifter is number 861-16.
Then you would also order (8) of number 829-L link bars to use them in the BB Mopar.

If you don’t need the pushrod oiling, the Sportsman lifters(96829-16) are a better value IMO.
But if you want the edm oiling to the axles and pushrod oiling...... if you want to use Comp lifters...... it’s the 861’s and the 829-L link bar combo.

The Comp website is almost worthless, you have to look in the catalog or call them.

You can download a pdf of the 356 page catalog no problem.

If you are going to street drive at all, I would consider the Isky bushed.

Thanks Fish, that is what I was looking for.

So for a fairly mild roller the 96829-16 would be the way to go if oiling thru the shafts? Considering stepping up to a roller.

I’ve sold several sets of 96829B’s.......... some of which are used in cars that get a fair about of street use.
They have bushings instead of bearings, and the bearings/bushings have pressure fed oiling.

No problems reported yet.

One plus, if you’re looking to step up from the std 829’s is they both have the same pushrod seat height.
So, it’s a drop in upgrade that doesn’t require different pushrods.

I'm putting together a 511 with the ez heads you did for me. So I'm looking at upgrading to roller instead of sft.

If it’s a street/strip build, then I first look at how many miles per year it will get driven...... and then determine if going to a SR makes sense for how the car will be used.

Then, if it looks like the SR is a viable option........along with the particular cam profile, spring loads, and rocker ratio........ determine how good the lifters need to be based on usage, initial cost, and replacement/rebuild time intervals.

Low maintenance and pump gas are the main reasons i built another shortblock. Any 511 in an A body will be a handful.

If you want low maintenance then go with a hyd roller rather than a solid roller. You'll give up some power above 6000 rpm but you most likely aren't going to take a 511 in an A body to redline very often anyway. I run hyd rollers in both of my cars for the same reason.