Hello

I'm using a Keith black top fuel crank 4.25 stroke

The flange is flat in the back and it has no register to center the flex plate
Anyone sells them or did you have a machinist make one for you

Anyone have any experience with this setup

Thank you Ari

I've never tried it myself, so take this with a grain of salt, but from what I have read:

It's expensive to have that register accurately installed;
Also the top fuel cranks are really heavy and balancing could get interesting. More expensive machining;
Finally, after you spend all that money you still have a cracked (or at least weakened) crank. Assuming this is a used one.

But I'm sure someone who's actually done it will have more useful info

Why not just buy a new stroker crank?

Yeah, good luck with that. If I had that problem I would look for a different solution than adding a register since that seems like a lot of work. I'd probably drill the flange for three small dowel pins since that seems like an easy way to solve the problem but I haven't actually done it myself. If there isn't room for the dowel pin trick then perhaps you'll need to have a machine shop build a register that is a slight press fit into the back of the crank. I'm not sure how much room you have to work with back there, might depend on if you have a four speed or an automatic.

Flywheel or flexplate?
Flywheel doesn't need a register.
I had a problem with the fit...loose and called the flywheel manufacturer...said the bolts are responsible for register.
It works fine.

A shouldered bolt and a proper hole in the flex plate should work.

Every Mopar flywheel I have seen needs to be center on the crankshaft flange, not on the bolt shoulders
The early, pre 1962, stick cranks had the outer surface machine on those flanges so the flywheels center off of that surface with a machine in register on the block side of the flywheels They had press in threaded studs also with nuts to hold the flywheel up tight to the cranks with nuts between the back of the block and the flywheel I think the converter hubs did center in a shallow hole machines into the backside of the crankshafts also Maybe not, CRS
Mopar added the centering ring onto the rear, tranny side of the crankshaft flanges in 1962.
Keith Black Industry use to sell a adapter ring that pressed into the converter hub hole and had a raised machine ring to center the later flywheels and flex plates, I bought several of them to use on the old top fuel cranks like your asking about, I can't find any of them now and I need one now , I hope to find one soon

I have been using a Keith Black fueler crank for the last 25 years. I machined the crank hub to accept the converter hub and I use a collar or plug to align the flex plate on the crank taking the collar off before bolting up the converter to the flexplate. The crank is still cracked in the same place it was when i bought it.

Most major Aftermarket Transmission suppliers have the adapter you need...Also for what it worth TF/Alky cranks typically are not heavier than stock they are lighter My Bryant 4.5 stroke crank weighs 64lbs vs a stock crank at 89lbs. If you are trying to use a MOPAR style flex plate you may need to have someone make you a wedding ring (no flange) it is a stepped ring that registers in the Diameter of the crank with a stepped OD of the MOPAR style Flex plate and a Std Mopar thru bore for converter hub. It becomes trapped between the crank and flex plate. I may have one PM me to remind me to look. Its all just simple lathe work so cost is minimal.

I have the same setup WIN Racing has ,but issue with the starter binded up against the flywheel

But the machine shop is going to this that Lance6611 has done

Pm you if you have the crank register

i just measured my 8 bolt callies crank flange.
in the shop, it's 60 degrees and 52% humidity

flange is : - 4.8125 outside diameter [forgot to measure the thickness]

flexplate/flywheel register diameter is : - 2.1622 outside diameter and .225 step [whatever pilots the flexplate/flywheel hole]

the torque converter register hole is : - 1.8125 inside diameter and .6225 deep

don't know if this helps the discussion or not.
as this crank was used in a 727 combo, and i intend to use a 727 as well, i didn't measure the manual transmission pilot hole.
if that is needed, let me know and i will measure that as well.

I had another one made to tighten up the small slip fit OD,
the converter ID, and added a little length for mid plate.
Don't remember the dimensions, that was almost 2&1/2 yrs ago.

Machine shop made it for you and gets pressed to the back of the crank

Did they machine the back of the crank to fit the hub of the Converter

I had a machinist friend make it to what dimensions I wanted and lightly taps into place.

I didn't have the crank machined. Bought this motor fully assembled. Crank was already set up with that first collar, of which I altered the
dimension to make mine tighter.
If previous owner had it machined or got it that way idnk.

Probably did a no no, but I milled a little off the converter nose, don't remember how much. Put a few miles on it but no heavy loads yet.
I thought I needed to machine the aluminum plug in the back of the crank that stuck out a little or the converter nose so I chose the easier of the two.
Not recommending machining the nose to anyone just saying what I did. Don't know if the nose is solid or hollow.

My crank is solid so you can machine the back of it to fit the converter hub in it

Some cranks are hollow

We will see

Thank you everyone for your help and info 😊