If you don't mind trimming the folded over edges off the frame where the radiator resides, and welding the seem back up, I will give you the part # of the biggest rad that will fit in there and the fans. I managed to get my iron block 605 Hemi to cool on the street finally.

Your really going to try and hook all that motor on 275's?

Make sure you aren't moving too much water. Sometimes you need to reduce the water flow to allow the radiator to cool.

That is a myth

I will give the bigger fans and a modified alloy shroud a go first and see what happens if that doesn't work i will check into bigger radiator. Yeah i reckon i can get it down with 275's just going to take some planning.

I couldn't get a small block Cuda to hook on those. Got flagged for going thru the traps side ways...

Some guys go fast on a Redline Bias Ply street tire, and some can't get a 14x32 to work (myself included). It's all about power management.

So your comment is based on what facts?

I can site more sources but this has a lot of good info and probably the best explanation I have read. Scroll way down to "myths"


http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Cooling_Bible/index.html

Old wives tales die hard.....

Not really sure what they know or don't know. All I can say is I have been drag racing competitively for 35 years. I have had many cooling problems in the past. Why do you suppose modern passenger cars have thermostats, for looks? They restrict flow until the desired engine comes up to temperature and then open to half of the flow that they would have if it was removed. Try taking it out sometime. Do it on your racecar preferably. See what happens. I have restricted flow on every one of my race engines ever since I took my thermostat out to help my overheating problems. I have an 1180 HP dragster that I am able to hot lap because the water flow is restricted, and it has a 21"X17" 2 core radiator. I turn the fan on at the end of the run and the temp goes from 195* in the heat to 170* by the time I get to my trailer. That's all I am saying so Tig might want to try that if the fans doesn't get it done. It works for me so take it for what free information is worth. I personally think your wives tale, is a wives tale.

It's clear you didn't bother to read what I linked which makes me wonder, why ask the question if you aren't willing to learn the answer?

You're drawing the wrong conclusions from your experience.

If you want to know the answer to your thermostat question, ask again in a manner that is not condescending.

Whether you need a thermostat or not, is really a matter of what you need to accomplish and the capability of your cooling system. If you need or want your engine to come up to a particular operating temperature as quickly as possible and stay at that fairly precise temp, (provided that you have a properly-sized and efficient heat exchanger (radiator)), you need a thermostat. That’s why all vehicles come with them as standard equipment. If your cooling system is not adequate to function properly with a thermostat (because they are a flow restrictor, even when fully open), or you need to operate at a temperature that is lower than what a typical thermostat is designed for, removing the thermostat might help you achieve your goal. You just lose the ability to control the coolant temperature (unless you’re using fan controls to control temp). If your cooling system is still not able to prevent an overheating condition after removing the thermostat, you need to improve the capacity/efficiency of the cooling system.

i agree with the above, but the best results will have the fan, thermostat, and/or the restrictor [or none] working together as a team to get the desired results one is after.