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Hemi's are less prone to detonation vs. a wedge so you need to get the particulars of the cam amd what pistons are in it also with who cnc the heads and what they flow .

solid roller will be less than street friendly .

was that HP figure motor on a dyno or at the rear wheels ?

what intake is on it ?

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with 2 x 4bbl Edelbrock carbs.

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I wouldn't mind swapping to headers

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with 2 x 4bbl Edelbrock carbs.

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crap.

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I wouldn't mind swapping to headers

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Umm 450 is not bad with manifolds... not good but you'd probably pick up a significant amount with headers. Why don't you do the simple stuff, do a compression test, check timing etc. Make sure it's properly assembled.

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I'm not the one to be giving a recommendation , and if I were I couldn't even guess with the info you have given so far, sorry.

But what I can say is there is something seriously mismatched with that build and the fact that the guy who had it built and the shop that built it can't/won't give you any info would have me very worried .

I'd be pulling that engine out and taking it to someone that can figure out what you have and make it run right .

My 426 MP crate motor is making more HP as claimed by mopar than what sounds like a high dollar build you have .

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Maybe those carbs aren't dialed in right?

What is the timing?

Lash settings?

That isn't much of a shop if they don't recall what they put in a Hemi, I'm sure they don't build many. If they did build enough to justify not recalling, they would be one of the big shos and you wouldn't have this problem.

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with 2 x 4bbl Edelbrock carbs.

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crap.

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I wouldn't mind swapping to headers

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Umm 450 is not bad with manifolds... not good but you'd probably pick up a significant amount with headers. Why don't you do the simple stuff, do a compression test, check timing etc. Make sure it's properly assembled.

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if you have a solid roller and like 9to 1 mopar crate pistons, thats half the problem. i would pull top end off heads up in car see what you have. zero the motor,spec pistons, then pull out roller cam, grind flat solid cam for it and respring heads to cam. put it back together right then tune. i bet ill pull another 100 hp out of that motor with cast header/manifolds. i would not run that motor any more with out knowing if even the lash is set right you could tear it up, break lifter/suck a valve. how old are lifters and springs they dont last long in solid roller cam motors ie time bomb///////

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if you have a solid roller and like 9to 1 mopar crate pistons, thats half the problem. i would pull top end off heads up in car see what you have. zero the motor,spec pistons, then pull out roller cam, grind flat solid cam for it and respring heads to cam. put it back together right then tune. i bet ill pull another 100 hp out of that motor with cast header/manifolds. i would not run that motor any more with out knowing if even the lash is set right you could tear it up, break lifter/suck a valve. how old are lifters and springs they dont last long in solid roller cam motors ie time bomb///////

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Motor has about 100 miles on it - everything was purchased new. Car was built and not driven.

As for the cam and compression, that's my guess - it's got a hairy solid roller cam and low compression. If this is indeed the case, in a perfect world, I'd rebuild the motor with different pistons, pick up the compression to 11:1 or so. Then I'd have the cam ground or purchase another cam for it. However, I've got too many cars with motors waiting a rebuild now (Mopars and otherwise), so I'm not ready to yank the hemi out for a rebuild just yet.

Don't see why I shouldn't run a solid roller - matched for the car - instead of a solid lifter cam. Should make more hp with a roller.

Scott

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I'm not the one to be giving a recommendation , and if I were I couldn't even guess with the info you have given so far, sorry.

But what I can say is there is something seriously mismatched with that build and the fact that the guy who had it built and the shop that built it can't/won't give you any info would have me very worried .

I'd be pulling that engine out and taking it to someone that can figure out what you have and make it run right .

My 426 MP crate motor is making more HP as claimed by mopar than what sounds like a high dollar build you have .

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If I end up pulling it, I'm more than capable of figuring out what I have. I purchased this car already built, but I usually build my own cars. I have no experience with hemis, however.

Scott

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That thing is sick. I would work with what you have, no need to run headers to get another 100HP out of it either.
You should set the valves anyway, why don't you pull the valvecovers and the front pulley and put a degree wheel on the crank? You can spec out the cam with the degree wheel and a dial indicator on the valves.
After setting the valves and figuring if you have an unstreetable cam or not, I would next check cranking pressure, then you can dial in the timing (34-35 total with a bunch of initial) and set up the carbs.
Without a scientific approach you'll just be chasing your tail. Without setting up the tune correctly you won't even know what your convertor can stall at with that combo.

Sheldon

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if you have a solid roller and like 9to 1 mopar crate pistons, thats half the problem. i would pull top end off heads up in car see what you have. zero the motor,spec pistons, then pull out roller cam, grind flat solid cam for it and respring heads to cam. put it back together right then tune. i bet ill pull another 100 hp out of that motor with cast header/manifolds. i would not run that motor any more with out knowing if even the lash is set right you could tear it up, break lifter/suck a valve. how old are lifters and springs they dont last long in solid roller cam motors ie time bomb///////

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Motor has about 100 miles on it - everything was purchased new. Car was built and not driven.

As for the cam and compression, that's my guess - it's got a hairy solid roller cam and low compression. If this is indeed the case, in a perfect world, I'd rebuild the motor with different pistons, pick up the compression to 11:1 or so. Then I'd have the cam ground or purchase another cam for it. However, I've got too many cars with motors waiting a rebuild now (Mopars and otherwise), so I'm not ready to yank the hemi out for a rebuild just yet.

Don't see why I shouldn't run a solid roller - matched for the car - instead of a solid lifter cam. Should make more hp with a roller.

Scott

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yeah, a solid roller is only hard on parts if it's an overly aggressive lobe...something more mild like a "street roller" should be fine. 450 on a chassis dyno wouldn't be bad, about what I'd expect. 450 on an engine dyno is pathetic, that's what a small block 408 will put out with eddie heads and a [Email]230@.050[/Email] hydraulic cam.

if it is overcammed, it seems odd to me that the HP peak is only at 6000 RPM. I wonder if the cam is way out of whack, either seriously advanced or retarded? maybe the valve springs are too light or the pushrods too small and you're getting some weird valvetrain harmonics/valve float, like the time Dulcich built up an indy headed 440 with a comp XE275HL and 1.6 rockers....in that build it just laid over at about 5000 RPM because of valvetrain instability, collapsing the lifters.

hemi exhaust manifolds are among the best factory manifolds out there, while you might gain with headers, I doubt the gain would be more than 20-30 HP...

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