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E-body Heater Control Valve #2819332
09/10/20 02:06 PM
09/10/20 02:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,188
North Carolina
4
469runner Offline OP
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469runner  Offline OP
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North Carolina
I have a leaky valve again. Over the years of owning my 1970 'Cuda with Air Conditioning, I have replaced this valve at least 3 times. I still have all of them. I don't want to buy another. Is there a way to seal them up? A rebuilding service? They are all not cracked. Picture for reference.

Mopar heater valve.jpg
Re: E-body Heater Control Valve [Re: 469runner] #2819379
09/10/20 04:05 PM
09/10/20 04:05 PM
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 762
Shoreline, Washington
72roadrunnergtx Offline
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Shoreline, Washington
Most of those valve failures are heat related cracks in the bakelite valve body. I fab a heat shield to keep away radiant heat from the exhaust manifold.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Last edited by 72roadrunnergtx; 09/10/20 04:11 PM.

1972 Road Runner GTX 440 6bbl 5-speed
[img]http://72rrgtx.com/carpics/bucket/DSC06730r-1.jpg[/img]
Re: E-body Heater Control Valve [Re: 72roadrunnergtx] #2819492
09/10/20 09:36 PM
09/10/20 09:36 PM
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Posts: 5,941
Salem
Grizzly Offline
Moparts Proctologist
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Salem
Great idea, nicely done! up


Mo' Farts

Moderated by "tbagger".
Re: E-body Heater Control Valve [Re: Grizzly] #2819517
09/10/20 10:27 PM
09/10/20 10:27 PM
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Posts: 1,188
North Carolina
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469runner Offline OP
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469runner  Offline OP
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I took mine out and examined it. No crack anywhere. I disassembled it and found it was leaking between the plastic body and the base. It has probably warped from the heat. I'll try using some fresh sealer on the mating surfaces. That heat shield is a good idea. I use headers, so probably not cooking it as much as an iron manifold. Those things hold so much heat.

Re: E-body Heater Control Valve [Re: 469runner] #2820196
09/13/20 12:14 PM
09/13/20 12:14 PM
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 165
Alabama
David1971 Offline
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Alabama
It is my understanding that 71 - 74 E-bodies (and some 70 models) with AC were fitted with the type H30-111 bakelite heater control valve. The 111 valve was a cable activated "pull to open" valve. That is a type H30-112 valve you have pictured. It has the "pull to close" style lever atop the bakelite valve body. With the 112, your dash mounted control for the heater TEMP would work in reverse. In other words, to increase the temperature you move the control lever to COOL or LOW and to decrease the temperature you move the lever to WARM or HIGH. Am I correct?

David

Last edited by David1971; 09/13/20 06:11 PM.
Re: E-body Heater Control Valve [Re: David1971] #2822564
09/19/20 12:00 PM
09/19/20 12:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,188
North Carolina
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469runner Offline OP
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469runner  Offline OP
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I think you are correct David. I just found that picture on the web for reference. Really, the only difference I can see between the 111 and the 112 are the arms. Probably could be switched on a unit if need be. But, I do believe the 111 is what the E-body's came with, the pull-to-open.

Re: E-body Heater Control Valve [Re: 469runner] #2822597
09/19/20 01:34 PM
09/19/20 01:34 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,787
North Dakota
6PakBee Offline
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North Dakota
Originally Posted by 469runner
That heat shield is a good idea. I use headers, so probably not cooking it as much as an iron manifold. Those things hold so much heat.


Every vehicle is different so I'm not going to try to make a sweeping statement here. On my '65 Sport Fury when I had the stock log manifolds all was good. When I went to headers, the underhood temperature rose so much that after a high speed run the inner fender rubber covers would smoke. Had to paint the headers white to stop that.


Wife says too many cars, liquidation coming soon......
Re: E-body Heater Control Valve [Re: 469runner] #2822681
09/19/20 06:04 PM
09/19/20 06:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 165
Alabama
David1971 Offline
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Alabama
Originally Posted by 469runner
I think you are correct David. I just found that picture on the web for reference. Really, the only difference I can see between the 111 and the 112 are the arms. Probably could be switched on a unit if need be. But, I do believe the 111 is what the E-body's came with, the pull-to-open.

Oh OK, I assumed it was off of your Cuda. I have 111 that is a junker...huge crack on the valve body and the base is badly corroded. However, the arm/lever is perfect. I bought a 112 at a good price so I could swap out the arms. The 111's have gotten pricey.

David







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