Been having an intermittent problem with my turbo New Yorker. Most times it runs just fine, sometimes it just shuts down. When it shuts down, there is no spark and the fuel pump doesn't work either. I am trying to figure out which connector feeds what at the bulkhead and which fusible link feeds what. So far I have replaced the ignition switch, the logic module, the hall effect pickup with new parts and swapped the power module for a spare I had. I am down to thinking that there is a bad connection causing this. It's getting very frustrating and I don't dare drive it, because it will just quit in the middle of traffic. I'm getting too old to push it.

Does it restart right after it shuts down or not?

If not, if it'll sit there and crank and crank but no fire, THAT would be an automatic shutdown relay fault.

When tripped, it's supposed to shut down spark and fuel pump.

Most times it will sit there and crank. I've had it not start first thing in the morning. I've had it quit, then crank and crank and just when I'm about to give up and call for help it will start and run long enough to get me home. It has done it with two different, albeit used, power modules. I suppose it's possible that both PMs are messed up, but what is the probability? I've had a couple of people say it has something to do with the Z-1 circuit. I'm assuming that is the circuit that runs power to the coil and fuel pump.

Is there a way to test the ASD? I'm thinking maybe I should buy a new PM. I've spent a lot of money throwing parts at it. My local Chrysler dealership says they haven't seen one of these cars in 25 years and they don't have anyone familiar enough with it to work on it, so I guess it's up to me.

make sure to check all wiring around [and under] the battery for insulation cracks or corroded connections caused by battery acid and fumes.
i have fixed a bunch of the K cars and minivans with wiring issues in that area.

Do yourself a favor:

Factory Service Manual set

I was reading the AllPar link and it said that from the bulkhead connector the hot wire goes to the fuse box inside the vehicle. It just dawned on me that the fuse box is rattling around under the dash. Guess that's my next adventure. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks Jim, for the link to the FSM. I'm gonna buy it.

I worked at a Chrysler dealership when those cars were new. For it to quit running and not restart is one of the things caused by a faulty distributor hall effect pickup. Has it ever quit while driving down the road? Gene

Yes, it does quit while driving. A few times I have driven to the store and when I came back out it wouldn't start. Sometimes it will sputter and fart and eventually start. The Hall Effect Pickup is a new Standard Motor Products unit with less than 100 miles on it. I replaced it when it started this crap and it still did the same thing.

Had this on my Omni. A new pick-up fixed it.

It has a new pickup with less than 100 miles on it. I would hope that it would last longer than that. I have just now checked all the fusible links and wiring around the battery. I have disconnected and sprayed the bulkhead connectors and power module connectors with Deoxit5, as well as any other connections I could find in the engine compartment. I had it running in the driveway for over an hour and it ran fine. Guess the next step is to drive it around town and have someone available to come get me if it quits.

I've been having a random hiccup with mine that I think I may have solved. Seems on mine there may be a break in one of the wires leading to the MAP sensor. When I push on the wiring, the engine will stumble. And it's repeatable, too. Maybe check your connections / wiring as well.