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99-04 grand cherokee reliability / maintenance question #2807389
08/10/20 05:53 PM
08/10/20 05:53 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,920
new berlin wisconsin
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Mr T2U Offline OP
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Mr T2U  Offline OP
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,920
new berlin wisconsin
i am thinking about picking up a 1999-2004 jeep grand cherokee for a project.
i see a LOT in excess of 200K miles with the 4.0 inline 6 motor. i saw a ad for a 2004 with 350K miles on it and it looked great in the pics.
i do know these SUV's are known for running forever.

i figure buy one with the 4.0 inline 6 motor and don't look at a 4.7 V8 one unless it's dirt cheap.
if i pick up one with about 150K miles on it what would i be looking at for maintenance besides the usual brakes, tires, belts and hoses?

how long before i should change the timing chain or don't worry about it?

ft axles? do CV boots have a tearing problem?
ball joints, tie rods? idler arms and center link?

i also see a lot stating they had rear suspension work done. do the control arm bushings wear out? or is it something else that needs work?

rust? i know under the lower cladding and under the rear bumper. anywhere else have a problem area?
i live in the rust belt does the rear panhard rod mount bracket on the body rust off?

any other areas i should look at before buying?

THANKS for the replies in advance.


perception is 90% of reality
Re: 99-04 grand cherokee reliability / maintenance question [Re: Mr T2U] #2807550
08/11/20 06:44 AM
08/11/20 06:44 AM
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,407
Central Pa
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moparjim79 Offline
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moparjim79  Offline
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Central Pa
Expect the usual wear stuff and maintenance, yes. 4.0's, great engine. Lots of aftermarket support. But then theres....

J ust
E mpty
E very
P ocket

If the rust issues aren't too bad and you can turn wrenchs, go for it!

Re: 99-04 grand cherokee reliability / maintenance question [Re: Mr T2U] #2807592
08/11/20 09:50 AM
08/11/20 09:50 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,393
Pikes Peak Country
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TC@HP2 Offline
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TC@HP2  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Pikes Peak Country
Overall they are decent and you need to either A) get a screaming good deal on it or B) get a one owner unit where they can vouch for its service. I've picked up several of these the last few years. Typically I buy them blown engines/tranmissions or accident victims and fix and flip. I've saved a couple for personal use. Mileage on these typically have ranged from 150-325 and prices I've paid are $1200 or less. Some are obviously neglected and pretty nasty inside and out, some just need minor work with incapable owners who won't/can't pay shop prices to fix a list of minor issues.

Big wildcard on these is the cylinder heads on the 4.0 engines. The early 331 castings (found on the rail outside the valve cover next to intake manifold) have some record of cracking. Sometimes on the deck, sometimes between 3-4 valve springs, sometimes both. Milky oil, high pressure in the cooling system,bubbles in the overflow, or gradual overheating are signs of potential issues. Cheap owners will be packing the cooling system with stop leak to overcome these issues. Look for lots of metallic flakes in the radiator as another sign. Or they flat out seized an engine as a result. From my perspective, this isn't a deal killer, but should necessitate a discount. 331 heads with TUPY cast into them under the oil fill cap are a revised version that doesn't seem to have the same issues. Aftermarket heads are available for around $500.

4.0 is an updated design of the 258 AMC, so its a pretty robust unit. Not much really to worry about with these.

Transmission failures are the usual neglecting to deal with leaks and running them low and burning up internal parts.

I've noticed some electric oddities with some of them. Turn the key and a window goes down, rear hatch or door solenoids that won't lock/unlock, wire harness into driver door has breaks in it, radio will loose a channel, console lights fail. Nothing really big unto its self, but things that can be annoying to fix. Crank Position Sensors do occasionally fail and replacing these is a pain in the butt because of its location behind the intake manifold on top of the transmission bell..

Haven't noticed any consistent suspension problems with them. One I have now does have a strange thunk in its front and rear suspension that I have not resolved yet. I've replaced all control arms in it so that's not the issue. I've torn one CV booth, but others have been decent. replaced the half shafts in one because the PO didn't replace torn boots and the CVs were in piss poor shape.

I'm in CO so rust really isn't an issues with these in my area so I can't really advise on this. If anything, dealer or owner add-ons with drilled holes have been the extent of rust I've seen.

They are comfy if you are average in stature. They are a bit small if your a larger dude. They are kind of heavy for their size, around 4500-5000# so they are reasonably safe for their size. Units with leather interiors seem to always be heavily worn inside. Guess not too many people like to take care of their dead cow coverings.

That's about it with what I've seen with this era, referred to in the Jeep world as WJs. Like I said earlier, I've kept a couple of these for my kids to drive, so I'm fairly confident in their reliability and safety.

Quadratech has one of the best selection for parts for these if you don't have a local specialty house.








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