More....

Those shorty 727s came in a lot of different trucks. My 85 D350 crew had one but it was a 360. Still easy fix, you just need the output shaft and tail shaft to swap into yours.

even 89-91 cummins trucks were running the short shaft 727 with a big yoke------all you need is the tail housing -main shaft to rebuild your tranny and there is good stuff in there like a 5 pinion sun gear,-----the big yoke will also fit on the back of your old push button transmission .....

Guys,

Is this what I need? $110 on eBay.

yes that appears to be the correct intermediate shaft you would need.

That is the right tail shaft from e-bay and the short shaft pictured is correct but you can see it also is not phased correctly. Cross member looks good. Look and see if the top of the cross member to frame rail is shimmed down. I see a gap and most likely the guy who worked on it was trying to correct the angle due to vibration. As said best to replace the tail housing and shaft along with the correct short shaft. Bolt the cross member solid and you should be good to go. Question with the truck in park and you increase the rpm's is there any vibration? Just making sure the converter in correct balance wise to the motor. That would be just one more problem the builder could of caused.

No vibrations in Park with increase in RPMs. Ok I’ll snag the rear housing. Will try to find a not so spendy intermediate shaft. Haven’t seen any others out there. I “think” it’s part number 3516037.

Also checked the driveshafts and all the u-joints were ok. Put the rear tail shaft in phase and left the front off for now. Will fix it right. Still hoping to drive it to the Nats.

Thanks for everyone’s help! I’m sure Ill be back with more questions shortly.

No vibrations is good at least there is not another problem. How much did they want for the short shaft? They were the same for many years. For sure 72-74 and I believe even older. Also same on all model 4wd 100 to 300 series. Just be sure they take the small joint.

$176.00 + shipping

Could be worse on price. Those trucks are getting harder to come by. The female side is the same on all 3 shafts. Where did you find one?

It's on eBay right now.

Sent you a PM.

I'm going to put a NV4500 in my 74 with the divorced T/C. The NV is about 8" longer than the NP435 in it. I was looking at how short of a shaft I could make and/or moving the transfer case back about 4-6 inches but that solution you have right there never crossed my mind. Looks like something the redneck Carolina boys that owned my truck before me would have done.

was you able to find the parts you need?

Yep...mine was butchered a bit. Got parts on the way, looking for someone to rebuild it near me.

I’m wondering if I’ll have to drop the TC if that rigged jack shaft and presses hard against the trans. Otherwise I don’t know if I can drop the trans.

That doesn't even come close to covering the problem!! I can't believe the previous owner butchered the intermediate shaft like that. BTW, If you have to replace any of the splined slip joints, you may want to consider retrofitting with the later accordion bellow boots. I did this on all three slip joints on my '72 W200.

The shaft is junk so just cut it in half. The transmission will come out then.

Good call.

Resurrecting this old thread. Finally made some progress...got the trans out, did have to cut the butchered intermediate shaft. It was jammed up against the trans. Have the correct tail case and intermediate shaft and found someone to rebuild the trans. Dropping it off tomorrow.

A couple questions...since I’m at it I’m going to rebuild the NP 205 transfer case. Doesn’t look too complex. Is there a best place to buy a rebuild kit or just go to rockauto.com?

Other question...the trans cross member was fastened to the frame with nuts and bolts. There were no threaded studs in the frame. Some of the bolts were fastened with a nut that sat between the top of the frame and the bottom of the cab which obviously there is not a lot of clearance. It’s going to be fun trying to line up the nuts on the bolt coming up much less get a wrench on them to tighten everything up. I’m wondering if this is factory?

As far as I can recall the factory cross member in that year was bolted directly to the frame rails. You might have to research that to be sure. I can not recall it being shimmed down. That 205 case is tough. I would fix any visable leaks and run it as is. Save your money.