buddy of mine had a 69 r/t 440 t-flite that ran 13.50s back in the early 70s.. ran at bristol tn....tires were street tires of that era...owner was part time ihra tech inspector..regular job physics and chemistry teacher ...needless to say the dude was sharp on racecars..car was a good example of a true ''showroom'' car tuned and driven by an expert....

Keep in mind patrick, that's no factory 383 package. It's machined and prepped by Dwayne... That is as close to Stock Eliminator as one can get without sticking a number on the car...lol.

for the most part, my thinking is along the lines of BSB67's.

but i'd want to quantify exactly what "mostly stock with a better cam" really means.

is it an OE long block with a new cam?
or is it a rebuilt motor with replacement pistons, reconed heads and a better cam?

if its a rebuilt motor, without knowing the specifics of the build......it could have easily taken a step backwards in the performance dept, depending on exactly what parts were used and the skill/proficiency of the shop that did the work.

none the less, i would start by checking all the basics first. make sure there are no mechanical or electrical gremlins not letting the combo run to its full potential......then tune from there.

as for my 383.....to set the record straight.
the short block and heads were originally prepped to run in NHRA stock eliminator.
when i was mocking up the heads and valvetrain, i discovered i had negative .010" V/P clearance on the intake valve.
since you cant flycut the pistons, the 2 choices were.......prep another set of heads, and dont mill them down to the minimum allowed volume, or use a shorter duration cam......or do some of both.
at that time the car wasnt going to be real competitive anyway......and i felt it was going to take a pretty serious effort to make the power i needed to even be able to be a "mid-pack" car.
less compression or less cam didnt really appeal to me that much, so i shelved the build.
several years later i decided to do something with the motor.
so, i flycut the pistons, set the heads up for dual springs, and installed a custom Comp solid flat tappet cam.
i never ran the motor with the NHRA cheater cam.

at 3650lbs, running 15 year old SS springs, with a mechanical fuel pump and the OEM 5/16" line, crank driven water pump, battery up front, slicks and open headers it would run under 11.50 in decent air.
with new springs/Cal-Tracs and an electric water pump drive it ended up going 11.26.
with a 6 pak hood, electric fuel pump/1/2" line/fuel cell, battery in trunk, remove wiper motor, heater box, rear seat(race weight 3550lbs), it went a best of 11.18 @ 123.

thats with unported 906's with a nice valve job that flowed like 233cfm.

however, more to the point about the OE 5/16 line......i had a roller cammed 448 with ported big valve 906's in the car from '95-'97, running high 10's/125+ in summer air.......with nothing but the OE 5/16" line and a Carter mechanical pump.
best ET from that combo was 10.61, best speed was 129, best 60' time was 1.46(all from different runs).....also done with the full interior, flat steel hood, battery up front, and crank driven water pump......and 3650lb race weight.

Thanks to all the replies... I really appreciate it!