i have always found the lokar a pain to fill and sometimes check .
But you are looking good

Tex

i too, am wondering about how long it will take you to fill the transmission with that dipstick setup.

and also, sorry for your loss.

I put 3qts in under 2 minutes from a gal jug of Max Shift 1 in the vert.
adding some progress pic

My converter bolts are short that I got with it at 1.250" long so lucky I got some at summit that are 1.5" but the bolt is about 1 thread away from hitting the front cover of the vert so I think I can use it.I did not tq it to 60ft lbs but if it hits then I think I can grind a tapper on the bolt so it will clear.Look at the vert bolt pad and the front of the vert and maybe you can see what I mean.

could you use a 12pt head like on an ARP bolt to help with clearance ?

That would not help me the bolt is just on the edge of too long.I can grind off .050" from the length.The bolt I got with the vert had no threads past the nut What I ended up doing is taking a feeler gauge and checking the gap after I ground .035 off all the bolt threads and ended up with .080" befor tqing the bolt[about 2 threads gap]

after re-looking at the picture, would it be possible to use a jam nut for a rod end ?
that would allow a bit more clearance. [i think ?]

I cut/sanded off 3/4 of 1 thread[.035"] of the bolt to keep the bolt from bottoming out on the converter cover and after torquing I had about .050 to .060" gap.The nut on the bolt is fine.I used red loctite. at 55lbs.grade 8 bolt.

What did you ever do about the cross member you cut out? Never saw a picture of it being reinforced. The floor sheet metal alone isn't going to cut it. I'd fix it now before you possibly damage a very expensive purchase.
Doug

I have not done anything with the trans member or floor yet.How/what should I do to it?to start I was going to fill in the open area with 1 piece .125" thick and as wide as the frame bolt holes

I put the starter in and then started lashing the valves and I can hear the starter ring spin the starter gear so I will have to shim the starter with the shims that came with the ultra bell.The kits came with a starter nose extension but how do I know when to use that?
ps:The starter took 2 shims to get off the ring gear about .040".No more noise when I lashed the valves.

The big box hanging off the back can be cut off for a smaller[1"x4"] shelf the the trans mount will bolt to.I am not against making a whole new trans mount but I am using what I have to progress on other things.Your input is welcome.

I am going to start with a 61top 63 lower tooth pulley at 3.3% od and I believe this will give me 7# of boost and about a 12/1cr[9.5 static]

WTH happened to the balancer?

LOLthe alt bolt sleeve rubbed it.The ballancer is 20 yrs old

You may want to replace it.

Nah it is just a scuff and not deep.ty

This is a start on my trans member and I will have a full shelf from 1 side to the other inside from bolt hole to bolt hole.

I opened up the trans bushing mount hole 1/4" to move it back so I can get a nut on it[10mm 1.500 nut] I found a welding shop to weld everything together and I will get a price later today at Certified welding on 9603 Clinton rd Cleveland 216-961-5410 and he welded my quick release steering wheel adapter about 6yrs ago.
ps:I understand this looks like poop but we will clean things up for the finish product.