Well, at any rate...

Drove the car on some errands today.

No brake issues whatsoever. Must've wore off whatever was causing it.

I've had a few cars in the past that (Saturns, in particular) were notorious for that... Some brake sounds upon initial drive after sitting outside, then nothing after a few miles.

On the oil issue, monitor reads 95% good. Not that it's the most reliable thing....but still.

Need to find a more reliable place, I know they're out there!

Yes, in response to some who posted suggesting "If I don't like it, do it myself." I'm afraid those days are long gone with age...

That guy is usually as bad as "my car is perfect guy." Sometimes, he's even the same guy.

I did that with my first car, 45 years ago. U-Joints, had no idea that what I was doing was unethical.

What's funny about bringing your own parts is that 3 guys here - trans/diff guy, exhaust/muffler guy, and my mechanic guy - usually suggest I do that.
Bear in mind that I do frequent business with them, and take care of them for stuff like racking the car for a look - $20 or a 12-pack of beer - and refer customers to them.
I communicate that I know they need a profit margin on parts, and often enough slide 'em either extra money or beers (beer is like clean money around here).
They know I'm fairly picky, but I pay whatever the bill is and don't grind them on cost or time...I figure it's just being respectful.
Bottom line is to establish a relationship with whoever works on your stuff, and things almost always go well, win/win.

I have learned people will take anything you're giving away for free just as long as you are willing to do it. And once you do it, they expect it.

An oil change should be considered a service. Maybe include a "free" tire rotation if you want. Just make sure the time is covered. A quick glance at the brakes and tires while doing that. Look around for leaks, stuff falling off, belts, lights, while the oil is draining and while you're adding oil and topping fluids. It really doesn't need to be an hours long production dissecting everything. People soon figure out whether you're looking out for them or for yourself.

An in depth inspection is offered at some places for a set price, maybe an hour. Often it is sold as a used car inspection service or a Spring get the car ready service.

Doing annual inspections are when you really look for needed stuff you can sell, especially since it HAS to be fixed.

Two of the best pieces of advice I've received is "If you're good at what you do, don't do it for free." And "Sometimes you're better off firing a customer." The 19.95 oil change - free inspection places are a magnet for tight wads, cheapskates & FSA types who want someone to give them everything. They go to the auto parts for the "free diagnostic" that ain't worth spit, buy the part and expect you to install it for $10. Then want you to fix it for free when it doesn't fix the car. I know all about that from both the shop and the auto parts side of it..

This guy started out fine. OP was comfortable with the guy. Then the guy went into "get as much as I can out of this guy while the getiin's good" mode, tried to BS him and ended up screwing himself. Do good work, get paid for it, don't BS the customer or take advantage of them. If they are a regular and not a PIA an occasional favor for goodwill is fine. And if "Mr. I did you a favor and brought my own parts" shows up, send him down the road.

If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.

EXACTLY!

I knew a guy who runs (ran now maybe) a back alley shop the people in the hood would take their stuff to. He had an account at a parts store. One deal he liked to pull, customer would bring their car in for a no start. Shop guy would diagnose it, maybe it would need a fuel pump. Shop guy calls the parts store, verifies price and availability and says to bill it to him and the customer will come get it and pay for it.

Customer retrieves and pays for new pump ($3-400 usually) and takes it back to the shop. Shop guy tells the customer that he'll call him when it's done.

Shop guy will go to the junk yard and buy a fuel pump or whatever he needed to get the car going. 10 or 20 bucks. Put the used fuel pump in the car and get it going. Bring the new pump back to the store with his receipt, tell them he didn't need it and get his 3 or $400 back. Cash. Did that all the time with all kinds of parts.

It's a jungle out there.

You nailed it very well!

I’m guessing your world doesn’t involve working on other’s vehicles, where actual safety is a concern?

Haven't been on a line in awhile, but I don't recall people ever wanting to pay me to take stuff apart just to look at it beyond maybe pulling drums. Not without having a specific concern. Or doing a pad or shoe replacement and the stuff is already apart.

Been screwing with junk with wheels for other people since 1974.

I just went through getting reamed by a shop.

I had this 1992 Caprice and the original rear end was howling. I installed a new police car rear axle with a better ratio. Ever since the wap I was chasing a driveline vibration. Long story short, After doing everything I could, I asked a friend who is a mechanic where to bring it. He suggested a local driveline shop and he sends all of his driveline work there.

I made an appointment and dropped the car off. I wrote a note about everything that was done so far and that if the repair goes over $350.00, to call me first.

First week: no word and when i called they were going over everything I already did.
Second week: no call and when I called they Did somethings and still not fixed
Third week: no call, when I called they talked about the pinion angle was off, ordered new control arms and the bill was $650. Shocked but still ok with it, I said go ahead
Fourth week: no call, I called and they said car is still vibrating and they are throwing in the towel. They were "not charging me for labor" and parts only at $950.00. I almost dropped the phone and started yelling at him. He said they went through the entire rear axle and have four weeks into the car.

I paid the bill on my unfixed car and I put it up for sale the next day. I couldn't even look at the car anymore. I will do everything in my power to cost them tripple that amount in lost sales.

If you are an honest mechanic, I will bend over backwards to be an awesome customer. Any MN residents want to know what shop it was PM me.

Regarding that shop, Garret:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VrFV5r8cs0

In our shop,if I'm doing a LOF I will do a quick visual brake check.That means looking thru the wheels at pad wear. If the customer wants the brakes checked with wheels off or drums pulled,then the clock starts.If we find it needs brakes and the customer wants them done now,we will do the inspect at no charge.If they decline repairs,they pay for the time.

Spam is not a good way to start on Moparts...

That's all it is

I find complaining about a shops policies always brings out people who defend the shop so I wouldn't get wound up if somebody does.

Last time I had my wife's car in for the second alternator replacement. Original one died after 120K miles. The replacement only made it 20K and died. It happens, parts fail so no biggie. They replaced it for free because it was less than 2 years old. I had heard stories about the new management so I charged and tested the battery before I took it in so they couldn't say it needed a battery too, but they texted me and said they wanted to replace the battery because it was "heavily discharged" for only $340. I said no, and that battery is still going after 3 years.

As for the copper in the brake lines, that is a new one. Copper in the brake pads is one I have heard about. Some places decided that copper in the brake pads could be toxic so they passed laws limiting copper in the pads. Cali is the only one I know of but I'm sure there are other states. Copper has been in brake and clutch pads for probably over a century and nobody has a confirmed case of copper exposure to brake pads because they were used on vehicles. Maybe manufacturing them but not from using them or replacing them.

If you were concerned about the copper in the pads then I would replace them when they wore out with copper free pads but for me not any sooner than when they wore out, unless the thought bothers you.

At least you spent a necessary $24 to find out where not to go.

No, no. no it's a v6 cam in a v8, lol

They prefer you to bring your own parts these days for obvious reasons, or if you want your car back this month.

EXACTLY.

There are always two sides to a story. this will be one from the Other side:

A guy brings in an MG with a SBC in with an o/heating problem, engine compartment covered with dried rusty coolant. He claims another local shop piped him and said it was fixed. He says it overheated within 3 miles of the shop and that after getting piped he wasn't going back. So he had it flat bedded home and then to us.
OK. A quick check revealed the fans weren't operating and there were really bad crimps on the wiring. In fact the whole car was a rats nest with a mix of mismatched splices connectors etc. I recommend a complete rewire @ ~5K. he asks can we just fix the fans. I said yes with a disclaimer of liability on any other electrical issues. About 700.00 total with the time already consumed. OK.
So we do a complete rewire of the fan circuit, relay, probe etc. I call him and say it's done. he requests that we put at least 30 miles on it to verify it's no longer O/heating. OK. Call him and say all is well. He says go ahead and clean the engine bay and polish the stained aluminum etc. as he is taking it to a show. We proceed to do so and a quick detail. I email him a 1200.00 invoice. He shows up with his wife throws a tantrum and says 1200.00 to fix a couple of connections is outrageous and stomps out and gets in the car. I actually apologized to his wife for her husbands outrage and said a lady should not have to be subjected to that. She goes out talks to him. Comes back in announces she is a lawyer and they are willing to pay 500.00 IF I sign a pre prepared statement releasing them from any further claims. PO'd yes, worth the time or money to pursue NO. Sign the paper take the check. 2 days later the car is on line for sale at a local classic car dealer. I contact a person who knows the dealership owner quite well. He tells the owner to pick the car up as their inspection revealed electrical issues he does not want to be liable for. Don't know where it went after that.
Fortunately I have only had a few similar incidents in 25 years of business. And with each one I became a little smarter but there are a lot of "slick willies" out there wanting it for nothing.
One of the things I learned not yet mentioned, "The quicker they want it done, the more likely they will be a problem when it was time to pay." BTW we had about 16 hours in the car.