Resto By Julius Butchery
#2767577
04/23/20 06:38 PM
04/23/20 06:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,894 A collage of whims
topside
OP
Too Many Posts
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OP
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,894
A collage of whims
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This is how "Restorations by Julius" handles bodywork. Backstory: cracking paint, a few polite calls & discussions with Julius, who remembered the car. He provided no answers or even consistent stories, only "never had a problem". The bodywork & paint was not tampered with since leaving his shop. Finally started digging into it, and this is what we found (quick & sucky photos): Lt quarter lower patch panel barely welded, and beat on apparently with a ball-peen, then over 3/8" of bondo on top. A few rust spots on the right, a good 1/4" or so of bondo over that. Other areas with no damage underneath, also 1/4" of bondo. I'm utterly mystified as to why, let alone the sheer nerve involved in such crap work. Bonus points: missing parts, incorrect fasteners & finishes, etc found during disassembly. Rest assured the car is going down to the bone and being re-done.
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Re: Resto By Julius Butchery
[Re: topside]
#2767685
04/23/20 11:15 PM
04/23/20 11:15 PM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 733 Nampa, ID
MadMatt
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 733
Nampa, ID
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That is some real crap work. As you and I discussed, I know the shop where his stuff was painted during that time frame and he paid bottom dollar for quick and dirty finish work. Sorry you had to wind up with one of those steaming piles.
Some see the glass as half empty, some see the glass as half full. I just drink straight out of the bottle.
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Re: Resto By Julius Butchery
[Re: topside]
#2767995
04/25/20 12:13 AM
04/25/20 12:13 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,757 Phila
PhillyRag
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,757
Phila
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I have the receipt from Julius and the lower quarter patch panels were charged out. It was done when the prior owner had the car. Do you mean "farmed out"? to another shop or previous owner of the shop in question? Is it fair to say you weren't "around" to witness/observe that work before paint. Seems to be that to determine IF a shop does "good" body, Check out what/how much "bondo" they have in-house. If gallon cans >>>>> Run Forest Run.
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Re: Resto By Julius Butchery
[Re: PhillyRag]
#2768046
04/25/20 10:28 AM
04/25/20 10:28 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,894 A collage of whims
topside
OP
Too Many Posts
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OP
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,894
A collage of whims
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When I say "charged out" I mean he charged the customer for the parts. I wasn't there for any of this, though I have photos, no doubt just the ones they wanted to see the light of day. He actually would sublet the body & paint to "his guy"; and it's a line item on his receipt. The inference was always that it was all his company.
Nevertheless, in my shops (before I retired), if I sublet work, I was 1st in the responsibility line if there was a problem. And I made sure IF there was a problem, it only happened once (at worst), was corrected, and never happened again.
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Re: Resto By Julius Butchery
[Re: PhillyRag]
#2768081
04/25/20 11:35 AM
04/25/20 11:35 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157 Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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[quote]
Seems to be that to determine IF a shop does "good" body, Check out what/how much "bondo" they have in-house. If gallon cans >>>>> Run Forest Run. The west coast "technique" for decades has to been cover the entire vehicle in bondo even if it's not needed, and carve it to shape, personally I'd rather spend some hammer/dolly time to straighten panels, along with time spent to align/tweak panels as well, then block several coats of high build primer to "straighten" the body, but for the majority, time and money is their concern, so bondo, putty/fillers/creams/etc are their short cut to "perfection" to hide hack work...that's a shame when you try to make a name in the hobby, I see it in almost all the "big name" shops/restorers, some more than others
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Re: Resto By Julius Butchery
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#2768093
04/25/20 12:05 PM
04/25/20 12:05 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,957 West Coast, CA
Troy
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,957
West Coast, CA
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What car is that?
Did you pay to have Julius do it or did you buy the car from the person that did?
Julius used many body shops over the years and the quality of the work varies on the amount of money the customer wanted to pay.
....there is nothing like driving my 1968 Hemi Dart around town and having people looking at you like you're nuts!!
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Re: Resto By Julius Butchery
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#2768100
04/25/20 12:18 PM
04/25/20 12:18 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,957 West Coast, CA
Troy
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,957
West Coast, CA
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[quote=PhillyRag]
Seems to be that to determine IF a shop does "good" body, Check out what/how much "bondo" they have in-house. If gallon cans >>>>> Run Forest Run.
The west coast "technique" for decades has to been cover the entire vehicle in bondo even if it's not needed, and carve it to shape, personally I'd rather spend some hammer/dolly time to straighten panels, along with time spent to align/tweak panels as well, then block several coats of high build primer to "straighten" the body, but for the majority, time and money is their concern, so bondo, putty/fillers/creams/etc are their short cut to "perfection" to hide hack work...that's a shame when you try to make a name in the hobby, I see it in almost all the "big name" shops/restorers, some more than others I work at a custom car shop. The body shop we use charges us for metal work, body work and paint work well over $100,000 for a “nice” job. All the big name shops cover the cars in filler and sand smooth. There is no other way to get the body perfectly straight. If you say that is not true then your using you filler primer incorrectly. Every time you strike metal with a hammer and dolly your altering the thickness of the metal making it thinner in spots. That extra metal needs to go somewhere and that is what creates waves. When you sand down the waves you create thin spots in the metal and that is even worse than .015 thick layer of filler.
....there is nothing like driving my 1968 Hemi Dart around town and having people looking at you like you're nuts!!
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Re: Resto By Julius Butchery
[Re: Troy]
#2768137
04/25/20 01:58 PM
04/25/20 01:58 PM
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Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 675 MI
MI Mopar Works
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 675
MI
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[quote=PhillyRag]
Seems to be that to determine IF a shop does "good" body, Check out what/how much "bondo" they have in-house. If gallon cans >>>>> Run Forest Run.
The west coast "technique" for decades has to been cover the entire vehicle in bondo even if it's not needed, and carve it to shape, personally I'd rather spend some hammer/dolly time to straighten panels, along with time spent to align/tweak panels as well, then block several coats of high build primer to "straighten" the body, but for the majority, time and money is their concern, so bondo, putty/fillers/creams/etc are their short cut to "perfection" to hide hack work...that's a shame when you try to make a name in the hobby, I see it in almost all the "big name" shops/restorers, some more than others I work at a custom car shop. The body shop we use charges us for metal work, body work and paint work well over $100,000 for a “nice” job. All the big name shops cover the cars in filler and sand smooth. There is no other way to get the body perfectly straight. If you say that is not true then your using you filler primer incorrectly. Every time you strike metal with a hammer and dolly your altering the thickness of the metal making it thinner in spots. That extra metal needs to go somewhere and that is what creates waves. When you sand down the waves you create thin spots in the metal and that is even worse than .015 thick layer of filler. exactly.
Last edited by MI Mopar Works; 04/25/20 01:58 PM.
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Re: Resto By Julius Butchery
[Re: MI Mopar Works]
#2768295
04/25/20 11:07 PM
04/25/20 11:07 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,757 Phila
PhillyRag
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,757
Phila
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[quote=PhillyRag]
Seems to be that to determine IF a shop does "good" body, Check out what/how much "bondo" they have in-house. If gallon cans >>>>> Run Forest Run.
The west coast "technique" for decades has to been cover the entire vehicle in bondo even if it's not needed, and carve it to shape, personally I'd rather spend some hammer/dolly time to straighten panels, along with time spent to align/tweak panels as well, then block several coats of high build primer to "straighten" the body, but for the majority, time and money is their concern, so bondo, putty/fillers/creams/etc are their short cut to "perfection" to hide hack work...that's a shame when you try to make a name in the hobby, I see it in almost all the "big name" shops/restorers, some more than others I work at a custom car shop. The body shop we use charges us for metal work, body work and paint work well over $100,000 for a “nice” job. All the big name shops cover the cars in filler and sand smooth. There is no other way to get the body perfectly straight. If you say that is not true then your using you filler primer incorrectly. Every time you strike metal with a hammer and dolly your altering the thickness of the metal making it thinner in spots. That extra metal needs to go somewhere and that is what creates waves. When you sand down the waves you create thin spots in the metal and that is even worse than .015 thick layer of filler. exactly. All the big name shops cover the cars in filler and sand smooth. There is no other way to get the body perfectly straight. If you say that is not true then your using you filler primer incorrectly. Well I hope they aren't using "filler (aka putty, bondo,etc)" on the entire car to make it straight!. OK for a custom (I guess), but not a restoration. Filler Primer is one thing----Bondo (aka body filler) is another. Yes: 100% Primer. No: 100% Filler
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