I agree with Doug, cutting the K-frame certainly makes it easier getting the pan off. Here is my 63 k-frame my dad cut back in 1967 in order to use a Super Stock pan back then.


As for max wedges spinning bearings back in the day, the biggest contributor to that was that all the testing done on those motors was pretty much confined to static testing - dyno tests. Limited vehicle dynamics came in to play.

Wasn’t much after that when Hoover and company figured out that at wide open throttle, going about a second faster than vehicle tests done in the day, that oil drain down from the top of the motor kept about 2 quarts in suspension plus the increased g forces kept the oil up against the rear baffle. And during this revelation the windage tray became more in focus.

So even though it had s swinging pickup the pickup could suck air on DECEL if the basket did not move forward. Didn’t take much to hang those pickup in the rear position.

Answer today - don’t use that pickup. Remember - all Stock Eliminator cars have to use the factory designed or approved pan. Yep they use scrapers but back in the 70’s most guys didnt.

I ran my stock eliminator car with the factory six pack pan and tray, spun it 6200, 6 quarts total for fill. Had well over 500 passes on it and the bearings looked like new money.

The radius at the corner cut is excellent.
IDK how large it should be for best strength (obviously 1" is not needed), but any is better than a 90 degree cut.
Even if it's been in use for a while with no bad results, that sharp corner flexes a bit every time you work the suspension hard, and that corner will begin to tear eventually.
No, it never happened to me, it's just my OCD acting up.
Be safe!

I used the stock 1970/71 6 quart Hemi and 440 six pack oil pan with the stock 440 6 pack 3/8 oil pick up in my old street pump gas Duster that I shifted at or above 7000 RPM in 1 and 2nd gear and it would rev at or above 7000 RPM in high gear in the 1/4 mile with no oiling issues with loose rod and main bearing clearances (.0032+ on the rods and .0040+ on the full narrow groove mains)and 5W20Wt oil as long as the oil level was above the add mark before the 1/4 mile runs If it was at or below the add mark before the 1/4 miles passes it would start to loose oil pressure when I let off around 200 to 300 ft. past the finish line, adding oil to bring it up the full line fixed it

Is the pan baffled to prevent oil from climbing the back wall?

Absolutely
All the stock Mopar BB and street Semi Hi Po oil pans that I've used since 1962 are baffled from the factory including the M.W pans
I bought one of the original Mopar 1970/71 6 quart Street Hemi oil pans when I put that car together in 2003, now you can buy a Summit or anyone else clone copy of them a lot cheaper than what Mopar sold those for back in the early 2000s
Those are really good street oil pans, you may need to do some work to the stock front deacceleration baffle as a lot of them have a big open air gap between the pan and the front edge of the baffles