Max Wedge oil pan

Does anybody know what the sump depths are for the Max Wedge and '66 to '69 Hemi oil pans are?
Tried calling Mancini, they are down to a skeleton staff and can't readily pull them from the shelves for measurement.
Looking for options that will fit my '65 Dodge Coronet RB.

The best working and fit is the 1966 to 1969 street hemi oil pan, been there done that swap on a bunch of 1963 to 1965 B body street drag and race only cars
Those pans are about 1 to 2.0 inches deeper than the original air sucking swinging pick up long sump M.W. oil pans on the OEM M.W. motors.
I think a 3/8 NPT stock oil pickup for a 1965 to 1970 C body B-R/B motor will fit and work good
If your block has been modded for the larger 1/2 NPT then use the stock street Hemi oil pick up

I have a 66 hemi pan on my 63 max wedge clone, and it hangs below the k=member at least an inch or so.

That helps, I have a deep sump Milodon that hung down about 3", I shortened the sump 2", but now it only holds 4 quarts of oil to the baffle. The only negative I've read about the Max Wedge pan is you have to modify it to fit a windage tray.
I have an issue spending $300 on a pan only to have to blacksmith it.

I used the Milodon street HEMI pan and it barely fits the stock K-frame.
Gus

I made the K frame so ANY pan will fit
Now I can get to the bolts going into the timing cover with a straight extension

I've tried the '70-'71 Hemi pan, it definitely hits the K-frame pretty hard, not gonna work.

That's one solution, but not keeping with the "Day 2" flavor of the car.
That is why I'm trying to find the sump depth of the Max Wedge and ''66-'69 Hemi pans.

Cab, do you know how many quarts those pans hold in the sump up to the baffle?

No I don't, sorry I put 5 quarts in them plus one for the stock oil filter
I like and use the stock 1970-71 6 quart Hemi and six pack oil pans on all my motors that pan will fit in the owners cars It is shallower and longer on the sump so it probably won't fit into a early B body with the stock K member and motor mounts, but maybe it will
I have a 1963 Plymouth Fury that I'm going to build for myself, I bought a 1966 to 1971 B body V8 K member for it so I can use that oil pan, that slides the motor back about a 1.5 inches and down lower in the chassis also and looks stock to most people also

Standard maxwedge pan takes 4 quarts to the baffles.

For the street add 1 quart for the filter to those 4 as a minimum. That is after your first oil change since a new engine will “use up” at least a quart filling all the passages. That’s the least I would use to tool around with.

For track use I would add 4 + 1 + 2. 4 in the sump, 1 for the filter and 2 that are in suspension at high engine speed. Better more ( 1 quart) than less as long as you have a windage tray in it.


As for using a Hemi pan I have one on my 62 and with the standard k frame it just touches on the passenger side radius of the k frame to the pass side front of the sump. I would take that radius of the k frame and remove it as much as you can staying away from the spot welds of the k frame.

Is your engine in the stock location for a 1965 B body car? If so you'll have limited options.

There are great options if you follow what has been said already.

On my 63 Sport Fury with the stock K-frame I use a Moroso 7 qt pan. It fits with no mods at all. Ron

My car has the original '65 k-frame, and I have tried the six pack / Hemi pan, will not fit without major modification.
Using a later k-frame is a great idea, but my headers, exhaust system, driveshaft, etc., are all set up for the original location.

My car was completely strip for painting inside and out so I can put it back the way I want it
this stupid car has a 1962 K member in it that is allowing the steering to rub on the torsion bars really bad so that is one of the reasons to swap it out for a later one, there are a lot better and cheaper choices on headers also for the 1966 to 1972 B and E body cars
I'm hoping to start on putting it back together this fall or winter after finishing my 1940 Ford Tudor

That's the info I'm looking for.
I have run the 7 quart Moroso, it fits fine, but I did not like how far down below the k-frame it hangs. So I shortened the sump, and now it only holds 4 quarts to the baffles.

Thanks to everyone for the information.
My plan now is to take Transmans advice, I will use the modified Moroso and add the extra quarts, as long as the level stays below the windage tray.

Standard Max Wedge pan with a 3 Quart accumulator .

It appears back in the day there were plenty of spun bearings with Max Wedges. I'd opt for a better pan. The closest spot is usually the RF inner flange of the K frame. I've had good success trimming the flange out in that corner. Many times it will make the difference between go and no go. Personally I'll never build another car without a enlarged K-frame. Even with my steering linkage going thru the pan and a diaper the pan comes off in 30 minutes.
Doug

I agree with Doug, cutting the K-frame certainly makes it easier getting the pan off. Here is my 63 k-frame my dad cut back in 1967 in order to use a Super Stock pan back then.


As for max wedges spinning bearings back in the day, the biggest contributor to that was that all the testing done on those motors was pretty much confined to static testing - dyno tests. Limited vehicle dynamics came in to play.

Wasn’t much after that when Hoover and company figured out that at wide open throttle, going about a second faster than vehicle tests done in the day, that oil drain down from the top of the motor kept about 2 quarts in suspension plus the increased g forces kept the oil up against the rear baffle. And during this revelation the windage tray became more in focus.

So even though it had s swinging pickup the pickup could suck air on DECEL if the basket did not move forward. Didn’t take much to hang those pickup in the rear position.

Answer today - don’t use that pickup. Remember - all Stock Eliminator cars have to use the factory designed or approved pan. Yep they use scrapers but back in the 70’s most guys didnt.

I ran my stock eliminator car with the factory six pack pan and tray, spun it 6200, 6 quarts total for fill. Had well over 500 passes on it and the bearings looked like new money.

The radius at the corner cut is excellent.
IDK how large it should be for best strength (obviously 1" is not needed), but any is better than a 90 degree cut.
Even if it's been in use for a while with no bad results, that sharp corner flexes a bit every time you work the suspension hard, and that corner will begin to tear eventually.
No, it never happened to me, it's just my OCD acting up.
Be safe!

I used the stock 1970/71 6 quart Hemi and 440 six pack oil pan with the stock 440 6 pack 3/8 oil pick up in my old street pump gas Duster that I shifted at or above 7000 RPM in 1 and 2nd gear and it would rev at or above 7000 RPM in high gear in the 1/4 mile with no oiling issues with loose rod and main bearing clearances (.0032+ on the rods and .0040+ on the full narrow groove mains)and 5W20Wt oil as long as the oil level was above the add mark before the 1/4 mile runs If it was at or below the add mark before the 1/4 miles passes it would start to loose oil pressure when I let off around 200 to 300 ft. past the finish line, adding oil to bring it up the full line fixed it

Is the pan baffled to prevent oil from climbing the back wall?

Absolutely
All the stock Mopar BB and street Semi Hi Po oil pans that I've used since 1962 are baffled from the factory including the M.W pans
I bought one of the original Mopar 1970/71 6 quart Street Hemi oil pans when I put that car together in 2003, now you can buy a Summit or anyone else clone copy of them a lot cheaper than what Mopar sold those for back in the early 2000s
Those are really good street oil pans, you may need to do some work to the stock front deacceleration baffle as a lot of them have a big open air gap between the pan and the front edge of the baffles