I recently bought an AAR with 57,000 miles. The car had been sitting for over 20 years and the guy I bought the car from installed a new master cylinder. I in turn installed new wheel cylinders, rubber hoses, and rear metallic brake shoes. The e-brakes work but appear to "stick" every so often. I have worked on them so the release correctly now. The rear brake shoes have been adjusted so the wheels spin with very light drag. I seems that the rear brakes will not release all the way while driving in traffic. After driving approximately 11 miles I can touch my rally wheels and I can feel heat. Not so hot that I can't touch them but can just feel heat. Was wondering if the rear brake regulator needs something done to it, or if the rod that engages with the master cylinder needs to be adjusted? The master cylinder is a OEM replacement bendix style. Any suggestions?

Thanks

I assume front disc, an OEM set up with meter valve, and proportion valve beside distribution block? Is it the 3 piece or 2 piece setup? Did you flush and bleed MC before installation. Do you see the bleeds release fluid when in the return position. The rear drum should have a residual valve to hold some pressure on the rear drums, but if the Secondary MC piston is not uncovering the bleed there is no where for the pressure to release too. Both rear wheels show signs of dragging?

If both it would point to MC. The proportioning valve should not be causing this unless it is clogged up somehow and acting as a check valve versus pressure control. Easy to disassemble and clean, but should not be the issue. Especially if the brakes where not dragging before the change over.

Yes both wheels are dragging.

A likely culprit
When they are dragging, try momentarily opening a bleeder screw or cracking the line for the rear brakes at the master> If it releases fluid and the drag disappears
The above or an internally collapsed hose is probable.

Have you checked to see if they are dragging when lugs are not torqued down? I had 11 hd rear drums that were not cast properly and I would get them adjusted just right, torque the wheels down, then they would drag enough to heat up badly. It wasn't until the wheel lugs were torqued down pulling the drum in tight that they would drag.

I replaced all the rubber hoses. I am thinking it is the rod going to the master. Can this be adjusted in?

Might have gotten a bad hose although not likely, I would keep it on the table if all else fails

As far as the pushrod adjustment it varies between Suppliers, vehicles etc. When they are non adjustable & too short we've had to make spacer's other times shorten the rod or shim the master out

The car is an AAR with original brakes. The hoses are the originals, I kept them for reference along with the wheel cylinders and original fasteners. Frankly, should has just rebuilt the wheel cylinders and put them back on. One was a little juicy. The booster is original, the MC is a Bendix style Look a like to the OEM. I have never dealt with adjusting the rod. I suppose just take the four nuts off the MC pull it aside and then what? What is the correct adjustment?

Thanks