I looked around saw some info on their products...with that being said are there anyone using or tired speedmaster parts?? Mainly heads and rods!

Just keep in mind Speedmaster used to be Procomp. Sleep on that for awhile. They changed their name to get rid of their legacy

I got a pair of bare Speedmaster big-block heads last year (ebay sale, only $502 shipped!)
But they are still sitting on the shelf since I didn't have time and money to have them checked and ported. Hoping to get both this winter

Yes i saw that while looking for information for them on moparts....can't hide much anymore even with a name change. I don't know much about procomp either

I was thinking about getting the small block heads

I just got the figures back from Dwayne on my BB Speedmasters. He had to clean up the valve job, adjust guide clearances, and mill them (because I ordered 75cc heads and of course they were delivered with the 84cc chambers, which I didn't discover for months). Then the basic Stage 1 port job (bowl work and cleanup), also trimming the guides and blending them into the bowl.



And after massaging:



I like it... nice improvement across the board.
It wouldn't have been worth going to Stage 2 full porting on these heads for my build. For higher hp, start with a $2000 pair of TF240's and go up from there

I bought a set of Speedmaster heads during their 40% off Black Friday sale for 219.00 each (bare) and was pleasantly surprised. Several of us have posts on abodiesonly with lots of pictures, flow info, and quality checks. I started porting mine

I know, I am also a FABO member

Only $438 for a bare pair? Is that including shipping?? I thought I got the buy of a lifetime at $502 shipped

Ya I’ve noticed you hanging out there. lol. The free shipping was an arm twister during that sale as shipping from California to pa was listed at over 200.00 on there website.

They kinda needed a little luv ootb:

After some tweaking:

That's an improvement all right... lots of sharp and misplaced edges on the original castings are gone

I notice that the intake port still maxes out around .600 lift although the absolute values are of course much higher.
The only way to get more flow at the high lifts would be a full port job, right?
(At which point the TF's or even Indys would make more sense).

More porting will get you more flow........ but it’s a very poor bang for the buck once you go looking beyond where these are now.
They would just need to be made “bigger”........ which may or may not be what the engine combo wants.

A lot of the time you’ll see the airflow level off in the area near the .25 Lift/Diameter ratio....... which is the point where the curtain area equals the valve diameter area.
On a 2.14 valve, that’s .535 lift.

Makes sense, which is why Stage 1 is the way to go, at least for my needs.
I selected pretty much everything on this build the same way... maximum fun or hp per dollar, and do everything myself except what is better left to the pros (like head porting!)

No idea how much I've got in the project, but I suspect it's at least 15k now, if not more

I know I could make pretty good power with those heads

Are the complete heads trustworthy as far as the valves, retainers, locks and springs go? or better off to fill them with the standards aftermarket stuff?

And what part of the head causes cancer and birth defects in the state of California?

Everything causes cancer and birth defects in California

They have to put that on all aftermarket stuff for some reason

I’ll fess up........

For years I used a set of their stainless 1.5 rocker arm sets with good results. When I first got them (this is around 2008-ish) the adjuster studs were junk. A couple of them broke upon adjustment. I called them and actually got great response. They said they did have a vendor problem with them and had just recently switched vendors and designs. They sent me a full set of the newer ones free of charge. Those rockers served me well in two engines; first on a ydraulic cam, then on my current solid. Year after year I would do my wintertime maintenance adjustment and find them to be right on the money.

So when I decided to try a 1.6 rocker, I decided I’d give them another shot at my business. They had just released their new “DNA” rockers. They say they’re CNC’d from billet 2024 aluminum; the set comes with studs, aluminum hold down blocks, a full shim set to set them with, and a pushrod length tool. Looked like a lot of value for the money, so I pulled the trigger on a set.

https://speedmaster79.com/Mopar-Chr...A-Aluminum-Roller-Rocker-Arms-Set?page=1

When I got them I looked them over real good with mixed feelings. The arms themselves, and all the supporting hardware looked really good. The issues I found were
A: at a couple of the rockers, the shaft bearings (caged needle setup) didn’t roll completely smoothly. I blew them out with air thoroughly, sprayed them with some comp valvetrain lubricant that I had, then soaked them in oil for a few days. After that they were nice & smooth.
B) the pushrod length tool they send in the kit is a ball / ball tool, while the rockers have a ball end adjuster nut for a cupped pushrod. This is the sort of stupid crap that makes them look 2nd rate as a company. I called them and explained the idiotic mistake they made with their kit, and they didn’t have any cupped pieces to help me with.

I made due, ordered a set of pushrods and moved on. When I got the car running, I ran into another issue. After a couple of street sessions, I begun to hear more & more rocker noise. So I Pulled the covers and sure enough they were way loose. Now I’m nervous, but I see nothing really wrong, so I readjust and away we go. The problem persisted again however, so I tore the whole set down I found myself again dealing with subpar adjuster studs. The ball ends on the adjusters were wearing badly! Important to note that the pushrod cups upon tear down were all full of oil and the pushrod cups themselves (smith bros.) looked fine. I called Speedmaster and sent them pictures of my situation. The guy I talked to was at least willing to listen and was actually very eager to work with me. They offered new studs, but admitted that they would be the same ones that would have been in my set to begin with. So, I declined and bought a set instead from 440-source. They did offer me a credit on future purchases.
Since installing the new adjuster studs, no issues. One season on them and all seems just fine. Admittedly and importantly, I run a flat tappet cam with modest spring pressures (160 seat & 350 open IIRC). I would probably not run these or any budget pieces on a roller setup with higher spring pressures.

I realize the OP was more looking at head castings, but I thought I’d share my experience with them, which is: mixed bag.... they seem to be able to make decent stuff, but insist on using subpar accessories along with them.

I talked to them about the Gen III Hemi block they offer. It is their castings, not Mopar refurbished blocks. Billet main caps with studs installed. Didn't remember to ask who's studs. The problem is it is listed as a 6.1 but has a 3.917 bore witch is a std 5.7 bore. The only info the guy could give me was max 4.080 bore. No cylinder wall thickness numbers or sonic numbers. You would think for the price they are asking they would have more info than that.

A lot of aftermarket heads seem to come with cheap locks and retainers (and springs that are rarely "right" for the combo). Valves I'm not sure about, but the destruction if the head breaks off (or the whole valve drops into the cylinder) is predictable!
So that's another reason I went with the bare heads, and had Dwayne source me the valvetrain parts. (Reusing my Comp springs that only have a few minutes of break-in time).