Anybody have any tips for installing vinyl exterior trim stripes? I have 71 Super Bee stripes for my Charger and was just wondering if anyone has any helpful hints on getting them on straight.

Anyone use pens of any kind to mark where they go? Should I use a piece of tape for a to show where I want the stripes to butt up against?

Any thoughts appreciated! Thanks, JK

mity225@mchsi.com

its kind of trcky to do,and hard for me to explain.any good sign shop can do it for a minamal charge.or try GOOGLE for vynal stripe install info.itsreally not that hard but real easy to ruin your stripes if you mess up.

I did a flame kit on my wifes PT and the 69 style stripe on my 68 Barracuda.

The flame kit came with some special lube to spray on the surface of the car to allow decal to move around. It didn't work to well, likely just what an experienced person would like but I would rather have it take a lot longer to set up but be easier to move. On the PT I used a few drops of dish soap mixed into the water sprayer to lube the surface.

The cheap vinyl bondo applicators work good for smoothing out the decal and for getting the bubbles out.

I used a grease pencil to make some reference marks where the decal is to be placed. I then taped the decal to the surface along the top so you can flip it up with the backing still in place.

A helper is really important. Have your helper lift the decal while you wet the surface then start to peel back the backing sweep the decal down from the center out as you move along the surface. If its not laying right lift it off or just slide it around.

REAL IMPORTANT: If the decal has a waxed paper like backing DO NOT get it wet. I learned the hardway and ruined one of the flame decals. This stuff turns into little balls of gu that you can't clean off the decal. Luckly the outfit I purchased the kit took some responsibility because they didn't mention that in their directions and sent me another flame decal for that side of the car.

The one I put on the Barracuda had a mylar backing, and there is no issues if you get it wet.

Once in place let it sit for an hour or so before you try to remove the top cover. Peel it back on itself.

If you have small bubbles (1/8" or smaller) don't worry they will disappear on them selves in a day or two in the sun. Bigger one you need to work out before the water drys out and the decal is adhered.

I have installed the stripe kit you have on Superbees and R/T's. First, take a good dose of patience, and plan for most of the day, and do them inside. With the curves being compound, and going over compound curves, you are going to be moving the stripes around A LOT. I use windex to spray down the area where the stripes go, and the back of the stripe, (after peeling the backing sheet off of the adhesive side of the stripe). Using a couple of pieces of tape on the hood, one at the back edge about 2" long along the edge, and another parallel to it about 12" towards the front from the back edge, stick these down first before you windex the car. (These two pieces will be running from side to side, not along the length of the hood). Use a tapeline and mark the hood centerline on the tape. Also mark the centerline of the hood stripe on the backing sheet. Spray down the hood, the hood stripe, and lay it on the hood. Stretch a piece of tape from centerline to centerline of the two pieces for reference tape,(over the stripe), then slide the hood stripe back and forth until the centerline for the stripe matches the reference centerline. Use a couple of pieces of tape on the stripe backing sheet and long enough to loop over the back edge fo the hood to hold the hood stripe in place. Then spray down and put on the top of the fender stripes, slide to align with the hood strip, and tape them in place. Repeat the process for the doors and quaterpanel stripes, windexing them but NOT squeegeeing them. Now the fun begins. You will have to slide the top of fender segments back and forth to get the best match on to the hood and door stripes, then adjust the door and quarter stripes. Once you have them, wipe a spot dry under the stripe, and place a strip of masking tape at the bottom edge to help keep the stripe located as you squeegee them down. You need to be careful not to put too much pressure on the squeegee, as you can wrinkle the stripe. Do not try to smooth the stripe at the tops of the fenders and the front of the doors all down at once, and a heat gun will help. Hope this helps, good luck.

"IF YOU'RE UNDER CONTROL, YOU AIN'T GOING FAST ENOUGH."

Oh, excellent suggestions there. This will be the big weekend project, so I'll have reread these a few times to let it soak in.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks! JK

Go to an auto paint supply place and get a spray bottle of stripe installation liquid. Its cheap and works well. Figure out what piece of the stripe has to be done first. On my duster I had to do the door stripe first because of the door handle openings. Most stripes follow a body line of some kind. Just take your time and don't be afraid to lift it up and start again if needed. An assistant can be a big help.

Here's what I learned when I put the stripes on my '71 bee clone:

Start with the hood stripe first. It goes 3/4" forward of the rear edge of the hood. Work toward the back of the car from there.

The fender stripes are tricky, because they taper in width. I ended up having to lift and reposition the thin outer stripes on the fender where they meet the hood. I squeezed them in to meet the hood stripe. It's not noticeable because the overall width tapers smoothly.

Trim the facing paper on the ends of each stripe all the way to the edge of the stripe. This will aid in alignment, as the facing can sometimes be difficult to see through.

Study LOTS of pics to get an idea of proper placement, particularly on the doors (under the mirrors) so the stripes end evenly on each quarter panel.

ANY significant trash under the vinyl will show through.

I used Ivory dish soap and water with a Bondo squeegee. It worked well.

dgc333 method is exactly how I have done them. Works great. when doin final squeeging work from middle out. You can do this yourself just be calm and work at steady pace. Don't panic about any little bumps they will go away when subjected to warm sun, make take a few times.

A tack rag works great for picking up any minute specs of dust or lint. As mentioned above it needs to go down on a 100% clean surface.

I prefer to do some vinyl work dry just because you don't get any trapped bubbles that way. If the vinyl is too big to handle or if you don't feel 100% confident then a solution of soapy water is ideal.

Great topic, I need to do the side stripes on my GTX, I'm afraid they will turn out crooked