Re: 1956 Pickup
[Re: J_BODY]
#2712563
11/03/19 11:09 PM
11/03/19 11:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588
Freeport IL USA
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Ted, When I did my 54, way back years ago I used a disc brake conversion from www.rustyhope.com. It worked pretty well, comes with the caliper brackets, the seat slip on ring, and a list of parts that make it work so you can source your own parts. There are probably a lot of more modern kits out there, probably some that use current off the shelf parts. The last several trucks I've just clipped with a Dakota frame, but that is a lot of extra work if all you need it a disc brake set up. Gene
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Re: 1956 Pickup
[Re: Diego_Ted]
#2712824
11/04/19 08:58 PM
11/04/19 08:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588
Freeport IL USA
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The Rusty Hope directions were pretty clear to me... Basically, you remove all the original brake stuff off your axle. If I remember right (its been a very long time) there are two spindles Dodge used on the truck beam axle, one was a 3 bolt, and the other was a 4 bolt. He can help you get the right kit. You bolt the caliper brackets he provides to your spindles (you may have to enlarge and tap out a couple of the original holes in the spindle (on the cars you did, don't remember about the trucks). Then you use the bolts he provides and bolt the caliper brackets to your spindles. You slip the bearing spacer and seat lip (its a machined part) over the spindle where the drum/rotor runs, and push it back to seat against the back of the spindle (a light taping may be required). Then you pretty much buy and install the rotors with new bearings and seals, calipers, brake pads, and hoses he provides part numbers for.
The most difficult part (which you may not have to do) is drill out a couple existing bolt holes to the next bigger size and tap the threads in the holes. Past that, its pretty much a disc brake job. Gene
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Re: 1956 Pickup
[Re: poorboy]
#2714276
11/09/19 03:37 PM
11/09/19 03:37 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,566 Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick
Still wishing...
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Still wishing...
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,566
Downtown Roebuck Ont
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Well this is an interesting process. After looking at his posted picture again, the front end of the truck sits a lot lower then it would have stock. Given that the original flat head 6 weighed a bunch (pretty close to the weight of the 440), I doubt the lower front end position is caused by the 440, unless the springs are shot, or several leafs have been removed from each spring. I guess we (that includes me) all presumed that since the truck has drum brakes it must still have the original beam axle as well. That may not be the case, something has been done to lower the front end of the truck. That could dramatically change what is needed to upgrade to the disc brakes. It could also make a huge difference concerning adding power steering, which would be difficult with the beam axle. I guess we need to have Ted look under the front end and see if there is still parallel leaf springs and a beam axle under the lowered front end. It would also be good to know how the front end was lowered if the leaf springs and beam axle are still present. Some of the methods for lowering the beam axle that were used in the past are considered pretty unsafe these days. Gene A couple of options for power steering, one a little pricey the other not so much if you can find the parts. This is assuming it still has a straight axle under it. Summit has an electric column kit that works like a lot of new cars do. The cheaper one if you can still find one would be the Ford power assist that uses a ram similar to what Sweptline trucks use except the control valve IIRC is incorporated into the cylinder itself instead of the drag link. Makes it adaptable to anything. Ford used it from the 60's right up to whenever they quit building Grenadas and Lincoln Versailles. Kevin
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Re: 1956 Pickup
[Re: JDMopar]
#2718135
11/21/19 04:00 PM
11/21/19 04:00 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,406 Diego-Town, CA
Diego_Ted
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,406
Diego-Town, CA
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Thx for the info guys. The suspension is stock. A question on the.drum brakes, is there a way to adjust? I see no adjustment wheel?
Last edited by Diego_Ted; 11/22/19 12:52 PM.
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Re: 1956 Pickup
[Re: Diego_Ted]
#2718165
11/21/19 06:14 PM
11/21/19 06:14 PM
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,841 South Bend
John Brown
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,841
South Bend
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Cam bolts used for adjustment IIRC.
July 19th should be "Drive Like Rockford Day". R.I.P. Jimmie.
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Re: 1956 Pickup
[Re: John Brown]
#2718466
11/22/19 08:52 PM
11/22/19 08:52 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
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Cam bolts used for adjustment IIRC. Ted look on the back side of the drums, two small bolts (3/8 or 7/16 head size) rotate the cams hidden under the brake shoes, a tiny bit of movement makes them move a bunch compared to the star adjuster wheels used later Those are not self actuating type brakes, the wheel cylinders do all the work. Hence the same size shoes front and back with the bottoms anchor solidly to the backing plate
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 11/22/19 08:56 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 1956 Pickup
[Re: Diego_Ted]
#2718478
11/22/19 09:44 PM
11/22/19 09:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,251 ILLINOIS
volaredon
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,251
ILLINOIS
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Hello Moparts, It's good to be back! 1st project is my Dads 56 pickup. It has drum brakes with a 440 motor installed! Not going to work here in Diego-Town. Has anyone done a disk brake conversion? I see there are a few kits on the market, anyone use any of them? Any and all suggestions will be apricated.
It's good to be back! Thx Diego Now THAT'S Cool 👍!
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Re: 1956 Pickup
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2718484
11/22/19 09:56 PM
11/22/19 09:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,588
Freeport IL USA
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Actually, the bottom anchors are also cam offset and will move the bottom of the shoes in or out as well. These brakes are a pita to get properly set, they work great once set, but if they are incorrect, the brakes pretty well suck.
I have a 54 Dodge truck service manual here. The bolts on the bottom are called the anchor bolts, both are suppose to have either an arrow or a punch mark that identifies the inside position of the anchor bolt. The adjusting cams under the shoes are referred to as the cam. the text also refers to the "toe of the shoe" and the "heal of the shoe". The bottom of the brake lining on each shoe on both sides are referred to as the "heal" and the top of the lining on both shoes are referred to as the "toe". Each shoe has a toe at the top, and a heal at the bottom. From the 54 Service manual: Major brake adjustment Be sure the master cylinder is full (paraphrase)
Position the anchor bolts and remove the tire assembly. Remove the inspection cover. Loosen lock nuts and turn brake shoe anchor bolts to fully released position, with the flats of the anchor bolts horizontal and the punch marks on the threaded ends of any pair of anchor bolts together and in line.
(1) Adjust the anchor bolt and cam on one of the shoes to give equal clearance at the toe and the heal. Make sure that sufficent center contact is maintained to produce a slight drag.
(2) After adjusting the clearance on one shoe, repeat the procedure on the other shoe.
(3) After the toe and heal clearance on both shoes have been equalized, install the tire and wheel assembly. Then, using the top adjusting cam, bring the shoe out until a moderate drag is obtained.
(4) Perform this procedure at all four wheels.
The book also goes into detail to be sure the brake shoes are aligned (square with the drum).
It also discusses brake pedal travel. There are 2 long paragraphs about free travel, and travel of the piston required to cover the relief port. Then it covers the travel of the brake shoes to contact the drums, I'll post that last paragraph:
An additional pedal travel of approximately 1 inch is required to move the shoes outward against the drums. The total pedal travel required to set the shoes should be approximately 1 3/4 inches to 2 inches with properly adjusted brakes. A minor brake adjustment (#3 & #4 above) will usually correct excessive pedal travel.
Good luck adjusting your drum brakes. Gene
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Re: 1956 Pickup
[Re: poorboy]
#2718519
11/23/19 12:38 AM
11/23/19 12:38 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,566 Downtown Roebuck Ont
Twostick
Still wishing...
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Still wishing...
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,566
Downtown Roebuck Ont
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Actually, the bottom anchors are also cam offset and will move the bottom of the shoes in or out as well. These brakes are a pita to get properly set, they work great once set, but if they are incorrect, the brakes pretty well suck.
I have a 54 Dodge truck service manual here. The bolts on the bottom are called the anchor bolts, both are suppose to have either an arrow or a punch mark that identifies the inside position of the anchor bolt. The adjusting cams under the shoes are referred to as the cam. the text also refers to the "toe of the shoe" and the "heal of the shoe". The bottom of the brake lining on each shoe on both sides are referred to as the "heal" and the top of the lining on both shoes are referred to as the "toe". Each shoe has a toe at the top, and a heal at the bottom. From the 54 Service manual: Major brake adjustment Be sure the master cylinder is full (paraphrase)
Position the anchor bolts and remove the tire assembly. Remove the inspection cover. Loosen lock nuts and turn brake shoe anchor bolts to fully released position, with the flats of the anchor bolts horizontal and the punch marks on the threaded ends of any pair of anchor bolts together and in line.
(1) Adjust the anchor bolt and cam on one of the shoes to give equal clearance at the toe and the heal. Make sure that sufficent center contact is maintained to produce a slight drag.
(2) After adjusting the clearance on one shoe, repeat the procedure on the other shoe.
(3) After the toe and heal clearance on both shoes have been equalized, install the tire and wheel assembly. Then, using the top adjusting cam, bring the shoe out until a moderate drag is obtained.
(4) Perform this procedure at all four wheels.
The book also goes into detail to be sure the brake shoes are aligned (square with the drum).
It also discusses brake pedal travel. There are 2 long paragraphs about free travel, and travel of the piston required to cover the relief port. Then it covers the travel of the brake shoes to contact the drums, I'll post that last paragraph:
An additional pedal travel of approximately 1 inch is required to move the shoes outward against the drums. The total pedal travel required to set the shoes should be approximately 1 3/4 inches to 2 inches with properly adjusted brakes. A minor brake adjustment (#3 & #4 above) will usually correct excessive pedal travel.
Good luck adjusting your drum brakes. Gene
That procedure should be incentive enough to put disc brakes on it. Kevin
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