if you don't have dedicated removal tools, a tiny eyeglass flat screwdriver will work. [those sets can be found almost anywhere if you don't have any, and they are cheap]
on the female terminal, shove the screwdriver into the slot above the top of the terminal, flattening the tiny tab that holds it in.
on the male terminal, you will take the screwdriver and shove it inwards along one side that will push the one leg inward, releasing it from the bulkhead.
it may take some fiddling around to make this work, but patience is king. if you are not sure what i'm refering to, look up "packard 56" terminals. that will show the tab on the female, and the leg on the male.
hope this helps.

Thanks, and I really appreciate the help in sorting the wiring diagrams out. I'll report back in this thread on how this goes (and hopefully not the charred remains of my truck, lol).

Sorry I've been busy.

I do think that what your showing - going through a grommet with the power feed - is more robust.
If you don't want a fusible link in that line, then just use a 16 gage one in the line to the battery.

Personally I try to leave the welded splice alone.
I would look at taking the two R6 wires and joining them, maybe at a good connector.
Or if that doesn't look like it can be done well, clip one long and tape it to the other. That would be neater and not risk having stub that could poke through the tape. Maybe gently tie wrap it for good measure.
But do what you are comfortable with and makes sense when your're looking at it.

Moparx mentioned the tools and the connectors.
A lot of Chrysler terminals are a little different than Packard 56. I believe they are Packard 58. The male 56 and 58 terminals may be the same. But not only do the 58s look different, they also have slightly different length - so do not always work in the same plastic connector.

I started a thread about them on FABO.
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/sources-for-chrysler-type-wire-terminals.418908/
Can't recall if we discussed them here (moparts) in any threads but might have.

For your new power feed, might see what else is available that would provide good contact area and positive locking.

No, I like the idea of having the 16 gauge FL on the wire that goes to the welded splice under the dash; I think you're right and that it will help prevent a massacre if the alternator shorts or something else screws up on the alternator side.

I'm not going to mess with the welded splice. I'm thinking that I'll cut the packard terminal off the R6 that comes out of the bulkhead inside the cab, put 12 gauge BL wire to that wire end with an insulated connector, and go out to the engine bay through the new grommet and terminate at the terminal block, where it meets the 8 gauge black wire from the alt, and the 10 gauge wire going to the amp gauge. Would a butt connector be appropriate here? The black R6 that currently goes from the welded splice to the amp gauge, I'll remove from the amp gauge, and tape off/insulate, per your last diagram.

By the way, what kind of connector is that referenced on the FL's in the diagram? I'd rather use something other than a butt connector with FL's; easier to replace the FL if something burns it out. The factory FL at my starter relay has a connector that allows easy disconnection.

I don't know. Google search for Moapr fusible links turns up some images.
Looks like ones used on these

https://www.hiltopautoparts.com/pro...-4-c-body-battery-cable-to-main-harness/

Earlier cars like mine use this one.

from this page
https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/chrysler.b.body/electrical/fusible-links

Maybe someone here will know. Otherwise its hunting through catalogs.

This guy's page is has a bunch of links.
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AutomotiveElectricalConnectors.htm

sorry if i caused confusion on the connector types.
as usual, i just ASSumed they were the same as earlier stuff.
there are just SO many types of connectors used these days, i have a whole drawer full of different removal tools, but i'm constantly buying more because i don't have what i need for the job at hand.

Nothing to apologize for IMO.
I thought they were all Packard 56 - that's what I saw posted on jeep forums, here, Forabodiesonly etc.
Someone mentioned there were different types, but only when I was working on my '67's harness did I see that most (all?) of the '67 harness female terminals had the rolled edges for spring tension. Then when I replaced a terminal on the M&H repop engine harness, I found out for myself the Chrysler type (Packard 58 style) didn't stay in the connector housing for the Packard 56. Then I compared the terminals and fortunately I had saved the original harness. So I was able to use the original plastic terminal cover and all was well.

Chrysler also used 'twin locks' (steering column wiring connectors) and others which I don't know the names of.

PS. Slightly off topic, but related to the project. Inside the firewall connectors, there is a foam seal on the half with the male terminals. Detroit Muscle Technologies makes those. For the truck might have to contact Jim to see what he has or can make.

Here is the stock connector on the FL to the starter relay on this truck. That's a Packard terminal inside the plastic housing, isn't it? What kind of housing is that? Can I remove those housings and reuse? I didn't want to mess with it for fear of breaking them.

It's getting even better, lol. The PO had "wired in" a few things, over the years. Extra in-cab light over front seat off of a line on the light switch harness. He ran the power for the wench on his wrecker boom by coming off the starter relay to a second relay for power, and running a wire to the second relay. While unwrapping more of the harness in the cab today, and chasing down the wires I cut from his emergency lights and flashers for the wrecker boom, I found how he powered them. Off the power wire to the ignition, it appears. This has been hot enough that I don't think I can get them apart without destroying the plastic connector. I think this needs replacing. Looks like RockAuto might have it

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=944615&cc=1100552&jsn=1006

Anyone have another source for this ignition switch harness?

Standard Motors SU88
Napa Echlin KS6611

If you are looking for the other end of that connection, sorry no info.

If both sides are bad enough, I can always run single-connection housings. I found a source for those. I'm afraid both sides have "meltage".

Clips and fasterners is calling itone way Metripack and 56. ????
You may be able to follow the links and get to Auveco catalog page.
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/O-E-M-Terminals-Shells-s/259.htm


Delphi is what used to be Packard Electric. You can take the Delphi p/n and see what a web search engine turns up.

Ignition - column connector looks very similar or the same as used in a-bodies of that era. Might have some luck finding that.
Or more likely a general multiterminal connector for the larger size and seperate one for the smaller size.

Damn! I have being lazy to read all this thread with detail, but fortunatelly Mattax is around!

About the ign switch and harness. Sorry, those SPECIFIC conectors are not available unless NOS ( althought repro harnesses must get those for somewhere we don't know ). Female end is included with ign switch thought. Terminals itself are Standard Molex ( Molex is the designer/manufacturer of those terminals ) and they are available in two sizes. Generic conectors are available in several setups, 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 12 ways, some of them for both sizes. Some of them were used in Mopar harnesses but NOT the ignition switch ( not at least on the shops I have searched ) since they are specific for those using 3 cavities for the small size and 5 cavities on the bigger size.

Main culprit is the big black power wire. Probably NOT just because the PO had hacked into it on both sides. On a RC/truck forum I'm on, a few have told me that it was pretty common for this exact thing to happen within a few years of production. Some went ahead and cut the black wire out of the harness and just spliced it together. I'm thinking that finding a better way than that connector is the better way to go, even if it means running all wires to their own, individual terminal blocks.

First things first, though; when the wire and supplies get here, I'll get this alternator feed diagram into reality, and get the dash back together and in place.

Thank,

Joe

just did this on my 77 w200 yesterday.
there has been an aftermarket ammeter in the truck since i got it. i drove it all morning yesterday running errands and i smelled some hot plastic, also noticed the ammeter was showing about 40amps charge when the rpm's were high enough for the alternator to put that out.
i had previously pulled the bulkhead connectors off and sprayed some deoxit in there and worked the connectors in there a few times in hopes of buying some more time.

thought about what i was going to do, decided to pull that connector where the black wire from the alternator goes into the bulkhead, it was melted pretty good. i ended up taking a larger wire from the alt output to the batt+ on the relay, also ran a 10g wire from that same post and went through a hole in the firewall right below the bulkheads. i cut the wire back where it feeds to the wiring harness for power and to the ammeter inside the cab, some of it was burned and corroded. just used a butt connector to attach my 10g wire to the original black 10g wire. so bypassed the bulkhead where it melted.
i thought i had a voltmeter hanging around to replace the ammeter but didn't so just left the ammeter. it's not accurate now but i don't really care. just needed to get the truck running again.

i think at this point i might as well put one of the denso alternators on it and put a voltmeter in it....

dont drive it anymore till you solve it cuz that high of rate will fry everything (I'm assuming the battery is charged & if it ain't then charge it with a charger on your bench).

if you need, or want, any of the ganged, standard molex connectors and terminals, let me know.
i have a good supply, and you can have what you need, gratis.
i have more than i'll need for the rest of my days, and someone might as well use 'em up.

also, i have repaired MANY of those in the past, and they ARE commonly "melty".

Sending PM. Thanks!!!!

Joe

well after i rewired the alternator output to the b+ post on the starter relay and then ran the new wire to the ammeter, the ammeter shows almost no activity.
voltage at the battery at low idle (didn't let the motor warm up much) was 12.8V and if i revved it, 13.3v. no wires were hot all so i imagine it's fine now.

yeah with the bad connection in the ammeter wire at the firewall, it was about 10amps at idle and if i revved it was about 40amp, the needle was also jumping around at idle...the wire was warm to the touch after i started looking around, could also smell it...

time to wonder HOW MUCH ACCESORIES HAS BEING SOURCED FROM BATT POST ? WRONG PROCEDURE...ammeter cars must get accesories sourced from alt post or some buss between alt and amm. If not any charge reading won be necesarily on charging batt process but feeding those added accesories. Then you wonder why ammeter and installation burnt!!!!

any excesive charge or discharge reading is an alarm. If nobody pays attention OR THINK a Charge reading is NORMAL you don't know how to read an ammeter or how the system works. Don't blame the ammeter cause that! Ammeter is giving you a warning call either side of the reading. Pay attention!