Moparx is giving you very accurate and usable information here concerning battery static voltage and generalized charging/operating voltage. Am a retired law enforcement auto tech, who worked primarily building, modifying,and repairing their vehicle electrical systems. Sounds like you are, first off, trying to run your vehicle off an Extremely discharged battery. 11.83 is the pits. It will start a moderate compression engine, but this is the voltage spec used to automatically,and totally shut down an emergency vehicles battery system so, until it is manually re energized battery isn't drained,allowing a vehicle with an improper voltage drain, to restart without a jump.There are several digital amp testers,with 30amp inline fuses,(Bluepoint had a good one),to help you locate your drain.Your voltage shutdown system could be probably incorrectly wired per you alternators regulators design. Disconnect your battery negative cables or cable,with everything turned off,and hook one ampmeter lead to the battery negative post and the other lead to the negative terminal /terminals. Do not do without a fused amp tester. You can burn s--- up! Do not try to start the vehicle! You can now read the amp gauge, which should show you your drain. Then, by disconnecting components, one at a time, you can isolate the source of your drain. You must check and correct these 2 issues before going any further, or you will be chasing your tail. If your alternator has enough capacity, ampwise, you should be good. Full amp rating is important, but wasn't stated. Lots of other variables here, but I know Ihave already gotten long winded here! If you need more help, you can pm me here ,and go from there Bill
