Re: engine runs hot
[Re: Bennoel 10]
#2696070
09/10/19 10:22 AM
09/10/19 10:22 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067 Irving, TX
feets
Senior Management
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Senior Management
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067
Irving, TX
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Your best shot at cleaning out the cooling system comes from draining the coolant, refilling with water and lots of dish washing soap. Put the cap back on the radiator and run the engine for 20 minutes or so. Drain the system and do it a second time if it was really nasty.
That radiator could be clogged. You need a temp gun to scan across the radiator and look for temp spikes.
Last edited by feets; 09/10/19 10:31 AM.
We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind. - Stu Harmon
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: feets]
#2696091
09/10/19 11:08 AM
09/10/19 11:08 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,388 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,388
north of coder
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my question is, if this engine was "rebuilt", why is there sludge in the coolant passages ? makes me suspicious of the entire "rebuild" process. what other shortcuts were taken ? sounds pretty scary to me.
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: second 70]
#2696143
09/10/19 01:21 PM
09/10/19 01:21 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299 Hinckley, Ohio
KWF340
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 299
Hinckley, Ohio
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I battled a cooling problem a while back. Flushed the system multiple times to no avail. Then I had the radiator rodded out and everything was fine for a day, but the problem quickly returned. Running out of ideas, I installed a Tefba cooling system filter, flushed the system again and cleaned the radiator and no problem since.
It turned out there was (for lack of a better term) crud in the system. It looked like dirt/rust particles that presumably were slowly breaking loose from walls of the coolant passages, lodging in the radiator and inhibiting coolant flow. The filter did trap a bunch of particles that I saved in a jar to keep a running tab of what was in there.
Last edited by KWF340; 09/11/19 02:38 PM.
1968 Charger R/T, 440 Auto, GG1; 1969 Super Bee, 383, 4-speed, T5; 1969.5 Road Runner, 440-6, 4-speed, 96; 1970 Duster 340, 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Charger R/T SE, 440 (496), Auto, EB3; 1970 Dart Swinger 340 (416), 4-speed, EV2; 1970 Corvette coupe, LS5, 4-speed, Daytona yellow; 2000 Corvette coupe, LS1, 6-speed, Twin Turbo, Torch red.
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: Bennoel 10]
#2696598
09/11/19 03:57 PM
09/11/19 03:57 PM
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 211 Halifax, VA.
moparjack44
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 211
Halifax, VA.
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where do I start as I thought everything was covered. So here I go.... rebuilt 340 (stock),new rad with new clutch fan and shroud, new water pump, new heater core everything new as this was a rotisserie restoration. however the engine temperature gets very high. I have put 1000 miles on the car and it always runs very hot. over 200 degrees with a 160 thermostat. I noticed that the lower rad hose was cold when the temp. gauge read hot. the upper rad hose along with the heater hoses were hot. this lead me to believe that there was no circulation of coolant. pulled the rad, water pump, thermostat. everything checked out fine. the only thing that I found was the block wasn't cleaned out properly. quite a bit of sludge. found this out as a result of one of the freeze plugs rotted through. (engine shop closed down) Now I am wondering if this is my problem as I have lost confidence in the engine build. could the head gaskets be the problem?? maybe upside down causing blockage?? Not looking foreword to pulling the engine out. Any suggestions, similar problems??? Thankyou Moparts forum members.
Bennoel Do you know "for sure" it is running hot, or does the gauge says it's running hot. Is it steaming, is it pukeing? I had a "heating" problem on my 1st Gen 392. After much checking, re checking, doing and re-doing. I installed an after market temp gauge. ZAP,,,,, gauge problem, not heating ptoblem.
K.I.S.S.
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: Kilroy was here]
#2697277
09/13/19 06:32 PM
09/13/19 06:32 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,855 Central Florida
larrymopar360
Stud Muffin
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Stud Muffin
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,855
Central Florida
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As poorboy mentioned, you already had a rotted through freeze plug??? How soon and they weren't brass???
And as many already said, if you had a cold lower hose you definitely weren't getting circulation, so it isn't JUST the gauge, and you have to figure out the circulation issue. Start with the suggestion of running it with the cap loose and heat on high and see if you get circulation and burp any air out if you're lucky. But if you had a plug rot out already, something is going on inside the block.
Last edited by larrymopar360; 09/13/19 06:35 PM.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: Bennoel 10]
#2699758
09/22/19 10:09 AM
09/22/19 10:09 AM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,240 nowhere
Sniper
master
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master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,240
nowhere
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Not all the holes are for water circulation, most of them are to get the sand out after the cast iron has cooled off. Tell us what head gasket you are using, maker AND part number. Circle the blocked holes int eh picture below.
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: Tom_440]
#2699760
09/22/19 10:14 AM
09/22/19 10:14 AM
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177 Ontario Canada
Bennoel 10
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177
Ontario Canada
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What do you mean "sludge?" If the motor sat for a long time with water in the jackets, there would be rust. You could flush a lot of that out while the engine is still in the car.
Have you run the engine with the radiator cap off and seen the coolant circulating? Or if you run the engine with the thermostat out, is the lower radiator hose still cold? by sludge I mean sand, grainy type of sediment. after running without stat saw circulation and lower hose gets hot
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: moparx]
#2699762
09/22/19 10:17 AM
09/22/19 10:17 AM
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177 Ontario Canada
Bennoel 10
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177
Ontario Canada
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my question is, if this engine was "rebuilt", why is there sludge in the coolant passages ? makes me suspicious of the entire "rebuild" process. what other shortcuts were taken ? sounds pretty scary to me. unfortunately for me my exact thoughts as I had other issues already
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: IMGTX]
#2699767
09/22/19 10:24 AM
09/22/19 10:24 AM
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177 Ontario Canada
Bennoel 10
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177
Ontario Canada
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A few tips
Run the engine with the radiator cap off from stone cold to warm enough to open the thermostat.
As it warms up, and throughout the testing look, for strings of bubbles in the radiator neck that may indicate a leaking head gasket or crack. These will be more obviously a pattern of bubbles and not just gurgling splashing.
When the thermostat opens coolant should flow and you will see turbulence in the radiator neck. If it doesn't flow you probably have a thermostat problem. One thing that may help is to drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat to help water flow around it. Many thermostats already have this. It makes sure hot water gets to the thermostat to open it.
If it flows well give it a minute to start warming up the radiator. Run your hand along the radiator feel for cold spots. If you have them it's probably a clogged/defective radiator.
If it is flowing well and the radiator is warmed up evenly you may have an undersized radiator or low coolant flow from bad water pump or restricted passage.
Pull the thermostat completely and see if it still overheats and if the water flows. No water flow is a definite clog or pump problem. This sounds dumb but is the water flowing correctly. Some water pumps push water in from the bottom and out the top of the radiator the factory pushed in the top of the radiator and out the bottom. Doubtful you have a defective water pump with the impeller reversed but I have seen crazy crap.
If you feel you need to flush the debris out of the block I have done it by popping a couple freeze plugs out of the motor. Preferably two per side and as far apart as possible. I use a garden hose to flush the crap out. It often can be done without removing the engine but it is messy. Since it is a fresh restoration you may want to have a fresh paint job on the engine and want to keep it that way. If it is a small block they have plugs behind the flywheel rad seemed to be fine as there was good flow out of the car no stat I can now see flow with no bubbles water pump also checked out fine with a visual check when removed used a garden hose and flushed as recommended (don't think that was my issue) I think the stat wasn't opening
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: Sniper]
#2699769
09/22/19 10:30 AM
09/22/19 10:30 AM
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177 Ontario Canada
Bennoel 10
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177
Ontario Canada
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Not all the holes are for water circulation, most of them are to get the sand out after the cast iron has cooled off. Tell us what head gasket you are using, maker AND part number. Circle the blocked holes int eh picture below. don't know the gasket manufacturer of gasket or part number as I intrusted the engine shop to build my engine (my mistake) as for the circles …. not sure as I was using a scope and traveling unknown territory
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Re: engine runs hot
[Re: KWF340]
#2699774
09/22/19 10:35 AM
09/22/19 10:35 AM
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177 Ontario Canada
Bennoel 10
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 177
Ontario Canada
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I battled a cooling problem a while back. Flushed the system multiple times to no avail. Then I had the radiator rodded out and everything was fine for a day, but the problem quickly returned. Running out of ideas, I installed a Tefba cooling system filter, flushed the system again and cleaned the radiator and no problem since.
It turned out there was (for lack of a better term) crud in the system. It looked like dirt/rust particles that presumably were slowly breaking loose from walls of the coolant passages, lodging in the radiator and inhibiting coolant flow. The filter did trap a bunch of particles that I saved in a jar to keep a running tab of what was in there. I believe I have the same crud, but mine seemed to stay in the engine block and rot the frost plugs out in a short time.(three or four seasons and only a thousand miles)
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